EC Strat Mod

  • I always had a love/hate relationsship with my Eric Clapton Strat - the treble booster is always active, creates some noise and a treble booster is not a good thing at all times.


    So I replaced the volume knob with a S1 swtich volume knob and ... :) .... now I can switch between active and passive mode.


    My EC Strat - passive

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  • You could have used the schematic of the first US Sambora strat.
    they used the same mid-boost pcb with active/passive switching but with an additional 50k resistor from the midboost out signal to ground, to simulate the voltage divider of the clapton volume pot.
    the volume pot in this configuration is a usual 250k, which influences the passive sound of the pickups a lot - much clearer top end.


    I could send you the schematic if you're interested.


    cheers,
    René

  • Yes, please send me a pm with your schematic :)


    It's another option - but I realy like the sound of this mod a lot and still have the stock sound switchable.
    So I have best of both worlds.


    btw I own a 1gen Sambora Strat as well.

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  • You could have used the schematic of the first US Sambora strat.
    they used the same mid-boost pcb with active/passive switching but with an additional 50k resistor from the midboost out signal to ground, to simulate the voltage divider of the clapton volume pot.
    the volume pot in this configuration is a usual 250k, which influences the passive sound of the pickups a lot - much clearer top end.


    I could send you the schematic if you're interested.


    cheers,
    René


    Rene,


    Please send me the Sambora schematic - I would like to compare it to Armin's circuit.


    Thanks!


    Paul

  • Ha ha. You guys fearlessly rip into the guts of your Strats while I cowardly consider installing the Fender Chrome Locking Tuners (Ping version) on my new American Standard. :)

  • Ha ha. You guys fearlessly rip into the guts of your Strats while I cowardly consider installing the Fender Chrome Locking Tuners (Ping version) on my new American Standard. :)


    Actually, this is very understandable. You can always change the electronics back, or even change out the rather cheap pick guard. But some tuners don't match up well and require new holes, or have different areas of coverage, exposing surfaces previously covered.


    I look at changing tuners as a much more delicate operation that any of the electronics as that's behind the scene and easy to reverse.

  • Well, you JUST got that guitar :) Do it - they are "drop in and go".


    I have those tuners on one of my strats, along with a TUSQ nut, and it stays in tune - even with Floyd-style whammy action. If you set it up with the bridge "floating", as opposed to flat against the body, you can dive bomb, etc.


    In the style of music I play I have never used the whammy. In fact I kind of hate the Floyd Rose on my Jackson Soloist. Its a real PITA when changing strings or when its tension goes a rye . I almost had it blocked by a luthier .

  • In my research I did find Fender Chrome tuning keys (made in Korea by Ping- with the F on the bottom) that WOULD drop right into my Standard. This was confirmed by the Fender tech I spoke to today. He also said its benefits are more related to fast string changes then the misnomer that they stay in tune better. So I decided not to waste $65.

  • Has anyone tried this compared to wiring in series with a push-pull and super switch?



    Yes - The Clapton Circuit (even with its knob turned all the way down to 0) has a lot more gain than you get from wiring the pickups in series.


    I wired one of my strats to allow the dual coil bridge pickup to be:
    Coil One
    Coil Two
    One and Two in Series
    One and Two in Parallel
    One and two in Parallel out of phase


    And, a separate switch allowed the bridge pickup to be added in parallel to neck, neck/middle, neck + middle


    The additional combinations all had the potential to be musically useful - some were only subtly different than others.


    The Neck and Bridge combinations really expanded the range of tones from the guitar. So, I experimented with them in series, and it was a fatter version of parallel neck + bridge, but not as fat as two humbuckers in parallel.

  • In my research I did find Fender Chrome tuning keys (made in Korea by Ping- with the F on the bottom) that WOULD drop right into my Standard. This was confirmed by the Fender tech I spoke to today. He also said its benefits are more related to fast string changes then the misnomer that they stay in tune better. So I decided not to waste $65.


    That's why I mentioned the nut being changed on that guitar - the tuners are just part of keeping one in tune when using the trem. But, you don't use one, so no more temptation to do axe surgery ;)

  • Actually, this is very understandable. You can always change the electronics back, or even change out the rather cheap pick guard. But some tuners don't match up well and require new holes, or have different areas of coverage, exposing surfaces previously covered.


    I look at changing tuners as a much more delicate operation that any of the electronics as that's behind the scene and easy to reverse.



    Yes, I do only mods which I can easily change back too.
    I can't recommend other mods - with a lot of woodwork - in case of a sale it can be a lot of loss.

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  • ;) When I buy a used guitar then I check everything ... the value of a vintage guitar is at least -10% for each simple (visible) modification.

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  • What would be the difference in the Clapton mod or other mods really versus having a tone boost in a Kemper slot? I'm using Gold Lace Sensors (SSS) pickups in a Korina body and curious as to performing a modification rather than utilizing a stomp button. Any thoughts?

    "More Guitar in the Monitors" :thumbup: