DIY 2 way switch for profiler - $10 in materials

  • Instead I would recommend these ones:


    taydaelectronics.com/electrome…switch-solder-lugs-2.html


    The reason not to use the "soft touch" switches is I found they don't work reliably with the KPA looper functions. Don't know why, but they work fine for all the other functions such as delay infinity / hold, stomp on/off, browse rigs up/down etc. Just don't work properly with the looper start / stop, overdub functions. Whereas the 1PDT switch linked second above do work fine with all the possible functions you might want to assign. Just my personal experience with these.

    Did not know that, thanks!


    I currently use a Crybaby wah (with a substituted linear pot) as an expression pedal. I'm still thinking about including an on/off switch as well. The momentary button with click might be a nice option, as it gives some tactile feedback.

  • Oops - already ordered the parts. Oh well. I'm actually planning to use it for one stomp and also to change rigs, not the looper function. 14 bucks shipped, not too bad.

    ugh! sorry I didn't catch your post sooner! But indeed if not using for the looper functions then it's not an issue. The tayda soft touch switches do really have a nice soft touch (very quiet too) and appear to work fine with all other functions except looper.


    In any case, I actually prefer using the dedicated remote looper switches rather than external switches, because otherwise you will not be in the looper mode on the remote and can't see the looping progress bar which is handy when overdubbing to a loop with a fairly static chord progression.

  • Did not know that, thanks!
    I currently use a Crybaby wah (with a substituted linear pot) as an expression pedal. I'm still thinking about including an on/off switch as well. The momentary button with click might be a nice option, as it gives some tactile feedback.

    Yes if you want some tactile feedback then the other switch I linked to (not the soft touch) does has a somewhat similar feel to the KPA remote switches with make an audible "click" when you press them.

  • I noticed on the 2nd set of switches you recommended they have 3 solder points instead of the 2 on the original how would you connect the wires in this instance with the 3 prongs would you leave one out?

  • I noticed on the 2nd set of switches you recommended they have 3 solder points instead of the 2 on the original how would you connect the wires in this instance with the 3 prongs would you leave one out?

    Deej or nottoohigh or others...

    Did you ever figure this out or can anybody chime in about what solder points to use on the 3 prong switches?I just built a pedal with the 2 prongs switches and worked like a charm and I ordered and received the other 3 prong switches suggested by the OP but not sure how to wire these new ones.

  • Make sure you use momentary switches and no latching switches. I'm afraid the switch with three prongs might be latching. It's mentioned in the manual and video tutorials that the PROFILER requires momentary switches!


    And if your switches work with every function except looper, the polarity might be wrong. And that means the switch never works correctly by the way. With wrong polarity it triggers at the release of the button instead of when the button gets hit. You might not have noticed the malfunction at a simple on/off function but at looper control it leads to chaos. The looper processes both button hits and button releases and when you screw that logic .... garbage in garbage out. For a switch normally open you need to set Polarity to "Inverse"!