Tuner solutions for live use

  • To do it, you need 2 midi cables and the unochip....its won;'t do it out of the box.


    The dispaly isn't great but it does work..Just to check I wasn't imagining it, see below from the Uno website ( uno4Kemper)...


    Anyway, just an idea...


    UnO stands for "UnOfficial" (= not created by Behringer). UnO firmware solves some annoying bugs and adds some frequently requested features. To name just one: in "stompbox mode" you can use 1 row of FCB1010 switches to switch effects on/off, with the LEDs showing the current state at all time. Initial stompbox states can be programmed for each preset.


    UnO4Kemper firmware is a completely different beast. Instead of an allround programmable MIDI controller, the UnO4Kemper equipped FCB1010 becomes a plug-and-play remote control for the Kemper Profiler. Configuration is kept to a minimum, no programming required. 2-way communication assures that the FCB1010 LEDs are always in sync with the Profiler. Even the Profiler tuner can be shown on the FCB1010 display.

  • I love the FCB but I think the tuner functionality is its weak spot. That display is just not designed for fast tuning.


    Just checked and I am surprised that I cannot find a MIDI CC to mute the output of the Kemper. So what is the standard way of interrupting the output from a foot switch? Lock the X stomp configured for external pedal and not plugging anything in?


    We have a Polytune pedal and love it but it may be too much wiring. The clip-on version mentioned earlier may be the simplest solution if you are wireless.

    Yeah agree the tuner isn;t great. I guess to mute you could set up an empty/zero volume rig...

  • The simplest way to mute with a non-MIDI external foot switch is to assign a foot switch to the tuner function and set the tuner to mute when the tuner is engaged.


    But:


    IMO, with a quality wireless receiver and tuner, and “better than vintage coily cords”, cable length has a negligible effect, if any, on guitar tone.


    I suggest sending a cable from the wireless to the tuner at your feet, and a cable to the KPA.


    Done!


    If you can hear a difference in high end onstage from those cables, get better cables, or just keep standing in front of those cymbals for a few more years ;)

  • Just checked and I am surprised that I cannot find a MIDI CC to mute the output of the Kemper. So what is the standard way of interrupting the output from a foot switch? Lock the X stomp configured for external pedal and not plugging anything in?

    Forgive the assumption as I haven't pulled up the manual, but standard CC 7 is volume. I'd be surprised if that wasn't supported, but I've been wrong before. :)

    Kemper remote -> Powered toaster -> Yamaha DXR-10

  • I'm also wireless (picture a frantic Chihuahua mummified in an overpowering tangle of guitar cables).


    Of course, I could run wireless -> tuner -> input. The upside is that the tuner would then handle the mute functionality, the downside would be another 50 feet or so added to the input signal path. Life is ever the exercise in trade offs.

    I’m not convinced the extra cable length is an issue as the Boss is sending a buffered signal even when bypassed.

  • I've had good luck with the clip on Snark or clip on Polytune. Locate it on the backside and I can visually see it while playing if need be. Roll the volume knob down on the guitar, quick check and ready to go.

    "More Guitar in the Monitors" :thumbup:

  • I’m not convinced the extra cable length is an issue as the Boss is sending a buffered signal even when bypassed.

    The honest answer to that is "I don't know."


    That said, my EE friend once built an electronic switching system for my pedals that cut about 50 feet out of my signal path. When I turned it on for the first time, the amount of highs that greeted me compared to my previous rig (wireless on back line, cable out to pedal board at front of stage, cable back to amp input) was major. He gave me an explanation about cables, capacitance and / or some such geeky thing but I didn't retain it. All I could stuff into my little hippie brain was, "Long cables. Less highs. Ugh! Now me go hunt mammoth."


    Prior to that I never took cable length seriously but that was a real eye opener. Maybe buffering and such changes things these days. I don't have a grasp of the electronic issues involved but since it used to be a big deal, I've always defaulted on the side of caution.

    Kemper remote -> Powered toaster -> Yamaha DXR-10

  • Basically, in layman's terms (which is about all I can manage too) a decent buffer drives the signal down the cable and preserves the highs. Electical wizards can give you the details about impedance and capacitance etc etc etc but a buffer is really all you need.


    Prior to the Kemper I had a pedal board with an RJM Mastermind PBC switcher (like the GigRig G2 on steroids) which meant that unless the pedal was actually on then it and all it's cables were out the signal path. It also had 3 buffers. One at the input, and 2 more to cope with sending signal to the amp and back for running some pedals in the amp's FX loop. There was never any loss of high end. The craze has become that true bypass pedals are the best thing since sliced bread because when they are off they are not in the signal path. The problem is that all their cables still are. The dislike of buffers comes from some pedals having poor quality buffers in them that changes the sound even when the pedal is bypassed. When a pedal is on it is acting as a buffer anyway. Boss still stick by their belief that the pedal should be buffered when bypassed because of the capacitance effect on high end signal. As you already have the TU3 you might as well try it in front of the amp. If it kills the signal quality then look for an alternative solution. If it doesn't then you have the best solution possible for ease of use.

  • I just sold an RJM in the Great Amplifier Purge of 2018. (I love That Pedal Show and would have tried a G2, but their US retail presence is limited). The RJM not only manages all the loop stuff, it speaks MIDI. The more ambitious show I'm working on in the background while looking for an in-the-meantime bar band has computers at FOH, one running Cubase to fire MIDI at things that need it, so the RJM was perfect.


    And with the exception of MIDI, that's exactly the kind of thing my friend custom built for me in 1986. Very ahead of its time.


    Whether I run the tuner in the input signal change or out of the alt send, it'll be a good solution either way. That's among the things I'm enjoying here - lots of options.

    Kemper remote -> Powered toaster -> Yamaha DXR-10

  • Chris, I do like a challenge so I've just been experimenting with my TU3 and KPA.

    I rigged the TU3 up to the Direct out and set the direct out to Git Analog on Output Menu page 1.


    If I hit the Tuner button on my remote it kills the output as expected but as long as the Direct out is set to Git Analogue it still sends signal to the TU3.


    Tuner on off is Midi CC31 value 1 on value 0 off.


    If you can program your midi pedal to send CC31 you're done :)

  • Awesome! For a simple grab it and go bar band that's an easy approach. And for the more ambitious thing, I typically program the MIDI in Cubase to send mute at the end of each song, and unmute when the countoff click goes out for the next one, so perfect!

    Kemper remote -> Powered toaster -> Yamaha DXR-10

  • Forgive the assumption as I haven't pulled up the manual, but standard CC 7 is volume. I'd be surprised if that wasn't supported, but I've been wrong before. :)

    Yes, that would work! Just checked the manual, put the volume pedal to "Output" and CC7 can be used to mute if needed.


    I have to say that Wheresthedug 's solution of CC31 and the DI output is even more convenient as you don't have to "use up" the MIDI volume control just to mute for tuning.