Cabinet Ideas for the Kone Speaker?

  • Build from scratch?

    Most will remove/modify a speaker cabinet for the Kone. I had planned on doing this too.

    Then I found these on Ebay and its not really a bad price (considering all the parts. time and labor involved in making from scratch). 8)

    Im sure there are other ideas/parts/cabs out there- what say you?

    If you use FRFR the benefit of a merged profile is that the cabinet is totally separated in the profile.

    For my edification only... :D Kemper/Helix user

  • i built this with appr. the exact sizes of the original, cause i wanted a half open back

    and the original Cab is closed back, and i don't like these unreal bass response from closed great with the kone


    hope that it will work great with the kone

  • I have a wood shop with jointer, thickness planer and table saw. So I have a very elaborate plan for a modular scratch built cabinet.

    This is for studio use only. As such the design prioritizes configuration flexibility.

    While installing a Kone in an existing cabinet is an easy way to go, there may still be pitfalls to overcome.

    For example, the cabinet’s baffle may not fit the Kone driver easily. If the existing baffle was made to accommodate a driver with an outer basket frame meant to connect to the outer baffle surface you might need to make another baffle.

    If you want to try to build your own cabinet along these lines, you will need access to the following tools.

    I mention the jointer and thickness planer because you need them to create flat boards of specific thickness, with square edges from solid wood stock. You might want to build a cabinet using plywood for the box with a face frame. It is pretty easy to build the plywood box, but a face frame will require some skill. So will applying a finish.

    If you will be covering your cabinet with Tolex, you can get along with all plywood. Use baltic birch ply. It has fewer voids between layers. Ply is ideal because it comes with four factory edges that are square to the board’s surface.

    There are portable track saws from vendors such as Festool, Makita and Dewalt that can cut a straight, square edge. These are great for working with plywood because their crosscut capacity is limited only by their track length.

    My 30 inch Jet table saw is limited to a 24 inch cross cut without a shop built jig. In my case that is enough cross cut capacity because I have tools that allow me to join ply sections to one another. But if I didn’t already have a table saw, I’d buy a track saw.

    I am emphasizing square edges and surfaces because the cabinet is a box. If the components aren’t square and flat, the cabinet won’t assemble properly.

    You will also need a router with a circle cutting jig with at least a 13 inch diameter capacity. You can purchase a commercial jig or make one easily.

    Finally, you will need some good clamps and a flat work surface for assembly.

    My modular cabinet will allow me to use different drivers ( Kemper Kone, EVM 12S, EVM 15L, Jensen C12N, Mesa Vintage Black Shadow 10, etc. ) in various cabinet configurations.

    It will be capable of use with either guitar or bass


    The outer shell of the cabinet will be a simple box large enough to contain up to 6 ten inch drivers. The shell will be open front and back. That will allow me to fill the outer box with one to three inner boxes from the back side. The front cover will be matched to the inner box’s driver complement.

    The outer box will be able to accommodate up to three inner boxes. That will allow me to stack a 1 x15 EVM 15L Thiele box on the bottom, and a 2 x 12 EVM 12S box in the middle. Any space left over will be left empty or filled with blankets.

    To maximize flexibility, I will use quick change mechanical fasteners to connect baffle mounted drivers to the inner cabs. That way the inner boxes can be used with any driver complement. Front ports and back side openings can be opened or closed quickly.

    I plan to build a pair of 2 x 12 inner boxes, two 1 x 12 boxes, two 2 x 10 boxes, a 4 x 12, and a 6 x 10, so I can mix drivers.

    Wiring will be quick change so I can do mono and stereo.

    As far as the Kone is concerned, I plan to buy two.

    If I am successful, this cabinet will work with all of my tube amps and my Kemper.

  • Just received the two cabinets I bought off Ebay for the Kone's I will purchase.

    They look well made and in good shape, were packed well for shipment.

    If you use FRFR the benefit of a merged profile is that the cabinet is totally separated in the profile.

    For my edification only... :D Kemper/Helix user