Kemper Kone 4x12 1960 A Slanted

    In a 2*12 cabinet KEMPER Kones should be wired in series, resulting in 8 ohms.

    In a 4*12 cabinet KEMPER Kones should be wired in a mixed parallel/serial configuration, resulting in 4 ohms.

    Related wiring schemes are included in the KEMPER Kone packages as well as in the PROFILER Main Manual, which can be downloaded here.

    Could someone draw a photo of the layout for me please? I have all 4 in a cabinet but im a noob. I do better if i see an example if someone even have this setup could you take the back off and show me your connections please ane thank you?

    Quote from tannerpape01

    Could someone draw a photo of the layout for me please? I have all 4 in a cabinet but im a noob. I do better if i see an example if someone even have this setup could you take the back off and show me your connections please ane thank you?

    Did you ever read Main Manual 8.5.? Re your question see page 108, "Building Your Own Cabinets with KEMPER Kone Chassis"

    Quote from paults

    + is soldered to the terminal of the Jack that connects to the Tip of the speaker cable when it is inserted.


    - is soldered to the terminal of the Jack that connects to the Sleeve of the speaker cable when it is inserted.

    This is the normal convention for mono wiring. There is no stereo in the manual's diagram. If it was wired in reversed polarity(+ and - swapped), the cab would still output sound and it is doubtful that you would be able to audibly notice the difference.

    Since I was bored:
    - Each speaker stops current from flowing out of the amplifier. It impedes the current. How much it impedes is called its impedance.

    - Speakers in series stop more current from flowing so their impedance's add.

    - Speakers in parallel allow MORE current to flow so their impedance is reduced. The actual formula is not intuitive. But for speakers of the same impedance you can just divide for practicality.



    SERIES

    We only have one water hose so each speaker stops the flow of water (electrons (pink)).


    PARALLEL

    We now have basically two hoses so we can spray double the water (electrons (pink,blue)).


    ACTUAL FORMULAS

    Rtotal = R1 + R2 + ...


    Rtotal = (1/R1 + 1/R2 + ...) -1


    THEORY

    Electrons are pushed by VOLTAGE. Voltage is the "water pressure" in our water system. The louder your amp the higher the voltage it is putting out. The harder its "pressure" to push electrons.


    How much power you get depends on how much current is allowed to flow.

    Power is Voltage * Current or Current^2 * Impedance

    P = V/I = I^2 * Z


    If our amp is putting out 10 Volts the current in our series example is 10V / 8 ohms = 1.25 Amps

    P = 10V * 1.25A = 10.25 Watts


    If our speaker impedance was only 4 Ohms:

    10V / 4 ohms = 2.5A

    P = 10V * 2.5A = 25 watts


    EFFICIENCY
    The best scenario for power efficiency is when your amplifiers output impedance matches the speaker input impedance. So you always want to set your Tube Amps output to match the speaker. Solid State amps are a lot more forgiving and can be ignored generically.


    DEEP DIVE

    The movement of electrons is what does all of the work. When electrons move, they create a magnetic field. The field created by the electron flow fights against the field created by the speaker magnet and causes the speaker to physically move to make sound. Switching the direction of current flow, forces the fields to be opposite and the speaker moves in the opposite direction.


    When electrons flow thru an impedance, they create heat. So a speaker rated for X watts needs to have a large enough coil to dissipate X watts of heat.


    SUPER DEEP DIVE

    The impedance printed on a speaker is its impedance at 0 Hz (DC). This will be its lowest impedance. As the frequency being played goes up, the impedance actually goes up. The inductance of the speaker limits current as the frequency goes up.

    Z = 2 * PI * Freq * Inductance


    So the Z for an 8 ohm speaker would be:
    Zspeaker = 8 + (2 * PI * F * L)


    The current flowing at a frequency above DC (0 Hz) does not dissipate power. So it is ignored in power calculations. Its energy is stored and returned in magnetic or electric fields. So all power calcs are the printed speaker impedance at 0 Hz and amplifier voltage.

    Quote from lbieber

    This is the normal convention for mono wiring. There is no stereo in the manual's diagram. If it was wired in reversed polarity(+ and - swapped), the cab would still output sound and it is doubtful that you would be able to audibly notice the difference.

    Note to the Original Poster: Stereo wiring would use the "Two Speaker" wiring, times two. Each pair of speakers would connect to one Jack of a two-Jack stereo cabinet.


    Reverse polarity wiring would not be a problem when using a single mono cabinet. But, if combined with a normal polarity cabinet in mono or stereo, the phase cancellation would be noticeable to most people, when standing in between the two cabinets.

    Quote from paults

    Reverse polarity wiring would not be a problem when using a single mono cabinet. But, if combined with a normal polarity cabinet in mono or stereo, the phase cancellation would be noticeable to most people, when standing in between the two cabinets.

    When a speaker pushes out from the cabinet, it increases the air pressure in the room. When the speaker pulls in from the cabinet it decreases the air pressure.


    If you have one speaker pushing and one pulling you are generically NOT changing the air pressure.


    Since the air pressure moves as a wave thru the air, you will still hear sound. But depending on where you are in relation to the two speakers, certain frequencies will be cancelled out and not heard. So you get a thin weird phasey sound as you move around.


    So always pay attention to the + and - lugs and cabling.