Profiler Resetting on Startup (SOLVED)

  • The last 3 times I've fired up my powered profiler, I've been met with the following message on the display


    Welcome


    Please take a minute to setup your KEMPER PROFILER!


    and am prompted to add date and time and my name etc


    Starting Rig Manager before following above prompts results in the following message from RM:


    The author's name of your KEMPER PROFILER differs from the the name in Rig Manager. Do you want to set both to "my name"?


    All my content in RM seems to have vanished as well


    Any ideas anyone? Google doesn't seem to turn up anything and I don't wanna have to import a backup everytime I boot up

  • Good (ish) news / Bad news


    Support replied and suggested it's the battery as Bayou Texan suggested. Their email even named the battery type as 2032, again, as BT had said.


    Sadly, their email said nothing at all about how to replace it or the fact that, according to this thread Internal Backup Battery Replacement that attempting to do so on my own would void my warranty (I think mine is void anyways as I've had my Toaster over 6 years and never re-upped on any warranty) and that the swap is NOT recommended for non-pro tech folk such as myself.


    So, after dropping $8 on the battery and coming home to read this info, I call the retailer where I bought my KPA from and they want a $150 refundable deposit just to look at it and tell me $30 of this deposit is Non-Refundable should they refuse to do the job. Almost broke out laughing before politely ending the call.


    There's a tech shop close to me that I suspect will do the job for $20 but I'm tempted to try it myself following the very long drawn out description found here

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    unless someone here can guide me to a more efficient and reliable link


    Will also reply to support email to see if they now offer a link to a reliable guide


    Would have ruled if there was just a simple bottom panel access or something but I guess I'll have to rip the rig apart and start disassembling my baby to see what makes her ticker tick

  • The battery is very easy to change. It should be just about exactly as changing the battery on a computer motherboard. It will take you longer to unscrew the case than anything else. I'm sure there are numerous youtube videos on how to replace a computer battery. The kemper is essentially just a computer motherboard too.


    If you open it up yourself, make sure the kemper is totally unplugged. And you should pick up a wrist grounding strap to connect to the kemper metal chassis when changing it out like this one...


    https://www.amazon.com/Wristba…rap&qid=1663729360&sr=8-3


    If you do go ahead and do it then take pictures for the next guy.

    Larry Mar @ Lonegun Studios. Neither one famous yet.

  • Borrowed the strap from my nephew shortly after my last post. Busy week and wanna take my time with this as it's not the battery swap that's tricky as getting access and, of course, reassembling correctly (I'm not the greatest precision tinkerer around) so wanna make sure I can take my time and do it right. Apparently, snapping the tab that holds the battery in place is a potential mistake too so I'm gonna be going slow n' easy on that particular step.


    Will try to remember to take pics or video to share (does this forum support direct addition of pics and/or video or do they need to be hosted elsewhere and linked in the post? - Photobucket died years ago and since then I haven't done any image posting that isn's supported directly)

  • The forum supports pictures but you have to resize them down because Kemper limits the size to 1mb or less, and 10 pictures per comment. A typical phone photo can be over 3mb. I use my MS Office app to resize the pics down to 800x600 which gets them under the 1mb mark so I can post on here. Videos can be loaded to youtube and you simple copy the video url and post in the comments to view.


    I assume the battery will be easy to see once the chassis cover is removed so you should not have to move anything else.


    You can take a small flat screw driver and push on the retaining clip (see pic) and the spring under the batter will angle it up to take out with your fingertips. When you put the new battery in the housing, push down the side by the retaining clip until you hear a snap(click). Whalah! You're done!


    I've changed 3 of them in computers in my lifetime with no problem.


    Larry Mar @ Lonegun Studios. Neither one famous yet.

    Edited 2 times, last by BayouTexan ().

  • based on this ... what's the lifespan of that 2032? I'm wondering if a little preventative maintenance is in order (i'm going to be changing rack cases for the Kemper Rack soon, so while its "unracked" I'm thinking I might go ahead and change this battery now. I bought my Rack used in early 2020 ... I don't know exactly what year the Rack was made so the battery is at least probably 3 years old.

  • I have had batteries last 10 years inside a computer, and then I had some only last 2 years, and all were under daily use. But if you ever have to open one up then it's a good idea to replace.

    Larry Mar @ Lonegun Studios. Neither one famous yet.

  • based on this ... what's the lifespan of that 2032? I'm wondering if a little preventative maintenance is in order (i'm going to be changing rack cases for the Kemper Rack soon, so while its "unracked" I'm thinking I might go ahead and change this battery now. I bought my Rack used in early 2020 ... I don't know exactly what year the Rack was made so the battery is at least probably 3 years old.

    Mine lasted almost 7 years but I don't think I use anywhere near as much cowbell as you so, if you've got the chassis open, I'd say swap it while ya have the chance. Battery itself is under $10 so a cheap way to buy yerself some peace of mind for a good handful of years

  • ...

    I assume the battery will be easy to see once the chassis cover is removed so you should not have to move anything else.

    ...

    The cover has to come off as well as another panel or two before the side of the board is exposed sufficiently to make the swap. if i recall the details of the vid I watched last night correctly. I'll be setting up a couple vid cams when I get around to doing mine and will post that once it's all done and back up n' running.


    Thanks for the site requirement info too btw : )

  • Thanks for sharing. In all my years in IT I've probably had .01% of machines ever needing a replacement CMOS battery. It's just rare and impossible to predict if one is going to ultimately fail. It would be a much greater risk if they put a dedicated access hatch, as owners might let their curiosity get the better of them ("I wonder if replacing this will give me more amp in the room feel") and pull the battery for no reason. You should be fine. 🙂

  • BTW, I would make a new post like " how to replace battery" when you are done with pics or whatever, and reference this thread in that new post. The reason for doing so is to make it easier for others to be able to search for it on google and here.


    Just a thought.

    Larry Mar @ Lonegun Studios. Neither one famous yet.

  • Gonna drop this info here then paste over to follow up thread once all is back up and running and video is uploaded etc.


    Received this today in my email conversation with tech support. Pretty much describes exactly what the guy in the video posted earlier did. Only reason I'm gonna record my repair is to make it a bit shorter and more concise as the other one includes a lot of random unrelated chat. Entertaining but not necessarily needed when someone just wants to get the job over and done with...



    "You could change the battery yourself, but with the risk that something could happen.


    To be safe, I would advise you to send the device in.


    You must remove the front panel if you want to change the battery. First, remove all six screws from the cover. To remove the front panel, unscrew the four Torx screws on the bottom of the front panel, then unscrew the two nuts inside that hold the front panel. Now carefully tilt the front panel forward. Then disconnect the cables that are connected to the front panel. You have to be very careful when doing this. Inside the front panel, you will find the CR2032 battery. When changing the battery, you must be careful not to bend or break the holder holding the battery. After changing the battery, you must tighten the Torx screws and nuts. Finally, put the cover back on the device and tighten the six screws.


    No error message should appear, and the clock should run again. If you decide to send the device back, please let me know."


    About to begin the job now so should have my video up tonight or tomorrow barring any unexpected interruptions.


    /fingers crossed

  • Bit of good news but mostly shitty news for me, for now at least


    Battery swap went fine


    Reassembled toaster and powered up without anything connected but power


    First boot up resulted in Battery error and prompted me to manually set date and time as it had reset to 2010. This was as expected as it's the same error message the guy in the video had been getting and got the first time he fired up after battery replacement also.


    Added date and time, powered down, powered up and everything fired up as per normal.


    SUCCESS!!!


    Or so I thought


    Proceeded to power down and reconnect remaining cables as per usual set up.


    Powered up a third time and initial issue returned. Same welcome message, power amp out defaulting to on once more (I almost never have it on at home as it is connected to a 4x12 but I rarely use it as my main outs go to a mixer and on to interface and powered monitors etc).


    Am now systematically unplugging all cables again to try to isolate what might have been different between 2nd boot up and 3rd but will likely give up shortly as I have other stuff I have to do tonight as well.


    Will update tech support and carry on conversation with them if and when I find I'm unable to resolve this on my own.


    Kind of baffled at this point. Disconnecting USB cable and network cable that leads to router and Kemper Remote did nothing and I was sort of thinking one of them might the culprit somehow.


    More later


    ***EDIT***


    Disconnected everything but power cable and am back to square one with original error message repeating. Back to tech support I go