Kemper Remote Long Cable

    My POE, the TP Link cheapo, works with all cable lengths just fine. I'm sure it is fine. I have a 3rd cable coming tomorrow, so I have the original cable that comes with the Remote, an upgraded British Audio cable, and a third from Amazon that looks really, really flexible and truly like a mic cable. I will do a comparison when I have all 3. My main issue with cables that don't lay perfectly flat is I have to tape the crap out of them so no one trips on them. A mic cable, not so much tape and hassle. That's my main issue.

    Quote from GCNC8068

    I think the POE injectors are "intelligent" and supply the amount of power needed. So a short run would not require much or any, and I think the POE injector would not "oversupply" power. Somebody else please confirm or deny.


    It's not like phantom power that hits 48v all the time.

    The POE supplies a constant voltage and then devices downstream draw what ever current they need. Not so much intelligent but just the way voltage and current work. If you have a power supply that puts out 12VDC and can supply 20 amps of total current and you hook up a device that needs 12VDC and only draws 1 amp the other 19 amps of available current just sits there unused. It's actually very much like 48V phantom power. I suppose different mics draws different amounts of current depending on their size and circuitry.

    Here's my update on my quest to find a better remote cable. In the one pic, I laid flat each cable, OEM that comes with Remote, British Audio's upgraded cable, and per the recommendation on this forum, the Elite Core from Amazon. I was not thrilled with the British Audio cable, it was not cheap, and while clearly thicker and probably sturdier than the OEM, didn't coil round, or lay flat. It was kind of just a thicker version of the original. So I took one more chance on the Elite Core, again not cheap, I think around $40 for a 25' cable. But bam, I could tell the second I pulled it out of the bag this is the one. It does feel like a thick mic or guitar cable and will lie very flat and straight...and of course, it is easy to coil up in a circle just like a mic cable. So these Elite Core's are a winner in my opinion. I hunted down the Neutrik coupler so I can daisy chain two together if ever needed. I just bring both cables, and the coupler, and I'm good up to 50'. So Elite Core for the win. I might buy a short 10' as well for home use. Thank you to whoever suggested that model cable.


    Click the pics to see the full image, thanks.



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    You need a remote if you play live and change rigs or switch on fx. Else you don't. I've had my KPA for almost three years, and just recently finally picked up a Kemper Remote (it seemed that every time I was ready to order one they were out of stock, so after a while I just stopped worrying about it).





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    I just received 10' and 30' Elite cables as well a a PoE. It is working nicely so far, but I will need to do quite a few gigs with it to gain a good level of confidence. The flexibility of the cable is very nice and a big improvement of the Kemper cable.


    I did notice that the Remote takes a bit longer to be recognized by the Toaster since installing the PoE, but it is working well.

    Edited once, last by lbieber ().

    Quote from Yoda Guitar

    I'm using no Cable since 2 Years. Without any trouble.


    Google translate:
    https://www-kemper--amps-com.translate.goog/forum/index.php?thread/49526-kemper-remote-wlan-fähig-machen/&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

    This short video shows the remote 2 "Closed Doors away from the Kemper and a iPad attached in addition.

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    Fantastic. How much did it cost to go wireless? Does it have a lag time?

    For cables I just get a standard Ethernet cable and add a Neutrik NE8MX to it. They work perfect and allows me to own several lengths for cheap. I just made a 6' one and it cost under $10.00 overall

    Quote from Yoda Guitar

    I'm using no Cable since 2 Years. Without any trouble.

    This appears to be a solution that offers some advantages. I'm not interested in having all that on my pedal board since my pedal board is the Remote only.


    Technically you are using a cable. In fact, you have 2 of them, correct? ;)

    Quote from lbieber

    This appears to be a solution that offers some advantages. I'm not interested in having all that on my pedal board since my pedal board is the Remote only.


    Technically you are using a cable. In fact, you have 2 of them, correct? ;)

    Heck it barely takes up as much room as a pedal does. I'd LOVE to have mine wireless but I'll probably never get around to it!

    Quote from Dynochrome

    Heck it barely takes up as much room as a pedal does. I'd LOVE to have mine wireless but I'll probably never get around to it!

    This is true. I don't want to carry a pedal or anything else including a pedal board to mount things on. The Kemper plus Remote has everything I need. Again, the claim of no cable is not true. There are still two cables=4 connectors that are a potential failure points. Granted they are connected/unnconnected as often.

    Quote from lbieber

    This is true. I don't want to carry a pedal or anything else including a pedal board to mount things on. The Kemper plus Remote has everything I need. Again, the claim of no cable is not true. There are still two cables=4 connectors that are a potential failure points. Granted they are connected/unnconnected as often.

    I love my toaster and the lights but if I could do over I would perhaps get a rack so when mounting in one, I could put a panel ethernet jack in the back to plug the pedalboard cable in and out (like many have)thus saving the unit's output connector. I've seen platinum artists using Kemper toasters live just plugging them in like you would in your bedroom, apparently they weren't concerned about the output jack wearing out. (Or they had spares) Ethernet just has some tiny wires that have to fit just right and I do not trust them to be durable with countless in and out plugins although I have never had a failure using them. I have a dongle that I use so that I can keep it plugged in at home but the $5.00 dongle takes all the abuse. Problem is it doesn't fit in the gig bag with the connector installed so at gigs I have to plug it in and unplug it twice a night.

    My dream is to have a headcase made deep enough that it would allow for an Ethernet panel jack. I've contacted people that made Kemper headcases but they all made them too shallow. Plus I'm not sure the best "recommended" way of mounting a head into a headcase. Some do it by the feet and some by the Frankenstein strap tabs.

    Quote from Dynochrome

    I love my toaster and the lights but if I could do over I would perhaps get a rack so when mounting in one, I could put a panel ethernet jack in the back to plug the pedalboard cable in and out (like many have)thus saving the unit's output connector. I've seen platinum artists using Kemper toasters live just plugging them in like you would in your bedroom, apparently they weren't concerned about the output jack wearing out. (Or they had spares) Ethernet just has some tiny wires that have to fit just right and I do not trust them to be durable with countless in and out plugins although I have never had a failure using them. I have a dongle that I use so that I can keep it plugged in at home but the $5.00 dongle takes all the abuse. Problem is it doesn't fit in the gig bag with the connector installed so at gigs I have to plug it in and unplug it twice a night.

    My dream is to have a headcase made deep enough that it would allow for an Ethernet panel jack. I've contacted people that made Kemper headcases but they all made them too shallow. Plus I'm not sure the best "recommended" way of mounting a head into a headcase. Some do it by the feet and some by the Frankenstein strap tabs.

    I did have my ethernet port fail and it was a bit of a pain to replace.


    As a result I went with a patch panel, output jack, upgrade to ethercon and PoE and works brilliantly. Mine is a rack but my friend has a toaster rack mounted which has space at the top. He uses it for a wireless but I'm sure there is space for a patch panel.


    Shall I ask him what he has?

    Quote from V8guitar

    I did have my ethernet port fail and it was a bit of a pain to replace.


    As a result I went with a patch panel, output jack, upgrade to ethercon and PoE and works brilliantly. Mine is a rack but my friend has a toaster rack mounted which has space at the top. He uses it for a wireless but I'm sure there is space for a patch panel.


    Shall I ask him what he has?

    I don't presume to know what he has but some of those toaster racks are bigger than what I want to lug around. (Ive become spoiled since coming from years of lugging around 55lb cased heads,110 lb cabs and heavy combos regularly) What I want likely has to be custom built. Like the ones from Zilla or BA/Hill but deep enough to have a panel mount dongle come out the rear and attach somewhere (guessing extra 7CM" would do it) Oh and have a way to protect the knobs and rear, I was thinking like a couple pop in panels like some racks have. As I said, would have to be custom made as I haven't seen anything like this. Of course I could mount it in a rack like some have done but I like the idea of keeping the head aesthetics and width. Across the way is a guy with a super impressive high tech wood shop that could l probably have do it but he doesn't cover things (that I know of) and I'd prefer to buy one turn key covered by someone that did that regularly.

    Quote from Dynochrome

    I don't presume to know what he has but some of those toaster racks are bigger than what I want to lug around. (Ive become spoiled since coming from years of lugging around 55lb cased heads,110 lb cabs and heavy combos regularly) What I want likely has to be custom built. Like the ones from Zilla or BA/Hill but deep enough to have a panel mount dongle come out the rear and attach somewhere (guessing extra 7CM" would do it) Oh and have a way to protect the knobs and rear, I was thinking like a couple pop in panels like some racks have. As I said, would have to be custom made as I haven't seen anything like this. Of course I could mount it in a rack like some have done but I like the idea of keeping the head aesthetics and width. Across the way is a guy with a super impressive high tech wood shop that could l probably have do it but he doesn't cover things (that I know of) and I'd prefer to buy one turn key covered by someone that did that regularly.

    Actually yes you are right, its quite cumbersome :)

    I have my powered toaster mounted in a black plastic SKB case that I had laying around from past adventures. I bought a network tray and mounted the toaster to that via the foot screws on the bottom. It happened that the rack has enough height to mount my wireless transceiver above the toaster. I mounted a PoE in the back with velcro and have the ethernet cable from the back of the toaster to into the PoE fixed down with wire ties into the network tray. The PoE is single point of connection is the case. I also wire tied a power strip into the back. The SKB case is a bit on the large side, but there is room in the back to stash all the cables easily. When I setup I remove the front and back covers, cables are ready to go with a few quick connections. I wish the SKB case was a bit smaller, but it works well and I don't feel the effort to try to make it smaller is worth it and I would only get a small improvement anyway. I could attach some images later when I get home if it would help.

    Quote from lbieber

    I have my powered toaster mounted in a black plastic SKB case that I had laying around from past adventures. I bought a network tray and mounted the toaster to that via the foot screws on the bottom. It happened that the rack has enough height to mount my wireless transceiver above the toaster. I mounted a PoE in the back with velcro and have the ethernet cable from the back of the toaster to into the PoE fixed down with wire ties into the network tray. The PoE is single point of connection is the case. I also wire tied a power strip into the back. The SKB case is a bit on the large side, but there is room in the back to stash all the cables easily. When I setup I remove the front and back covers, cables are ready to go with a few quick connections. I wish the SKB case was a bit smaller, but it works well and I don't feel the effort to try to make it smaller is worth it and I would only get a small improvement anyway. I could attach some images later when I get home if it would help.

    Thanks. I have a SKB case in storage that would work perfect and although I was thinking about it, I didn't want to do that. It would be too wide and look goofy on top of the 1x12 vertical I use that looks/works perfect with the Kemper head. One of the fitting headshells would be the perfect matching width. I think it looks atrocious when people have those rigs where the head is way wider than the cab (Like a T) So I'm a bit picky. I'd be fine with my kemper head gig bag for transport but it doesn't allow for the dongle to stay in, and plugging/unplugging that all the time is what I'm trying to avoid. (I was almost thinking about cutting a hole in it to thread it through but knowing my luck the dongle would catch on something and do what I was trying to avoid by doing all this) I really should have got the rack version but when I bought it I thought it would only be in the studio. Once I heard what it could do I HAD to use it live.

    I was thinking about getting one of those cases with the foam and cut the foam so it had a relief for the dongle but am still on the fence about that. I really want that custom case and have sent out a couple RFQ's with drawings. Somebody on here a while back was printing them inexpensively and it wouldn't take much to add my custom features to the design he provided the info for. It would just take more involvement than I have time for so I'll keep thinking of the best solution to transport , look good, and keep the ethernent (and possibly even the XLR) extensions in to save on head wear and tear..

    According to their site "This mod can be performed on all Kemper Profiler Head and Rack Models."

    A little steep in price, but they know what they're doing and are very reputable, and piece of mind can be worth quite a sum. I'm sure someone on the forum with tech skills could figure it out tough, I'd try but the skills aren't there. If someone in the community ever does figure it out though, make a tutorial video and post it on YouTube, I'm sure more people than just me would be willing to donate 5 to 10 bucks to the creator of such a video;)

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    I always thought the simple plastic ethernet connector on the stationary KPA end was good idea as it's kind of break away point.


    If you have a rugged locking ethercon style plug on both ends, and something/someone trips over or snags the cable... where will fail? What will break?

    Quote from HowardBrown

    According to their site "This mod can be performed on all Kemper Profiler Head and Rack Models."

    A little steep in price, but they know what they're doing and are very reputable, and piece of mind can be worth quite a sum. I'm sure someone on the forum with tech skills could figure it out tough, I'd try but the skills aren't there. If someone in the community ever does figure it out though, make a tutorial video and post it on YouTube, I'm sure more people than just me would be willing to donate 5 to 10 bucks to the creator of such a video;)

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    I avoided this by having a jump lead connected to a PoE and then to an Ethercon. I also bought an ethercon converter and kept the same remote lead.