Posts by joshriggs

    You can do both. Assuming you have access to a rehearsal room and a PA system, start by getting some rigs together with virtual cabs that are similar to your real cab. Next, tweak your tone to sound good on the PA. Once you're close, start A/B'ing the PA with your real cab, and use the monitor EQ or power amp EQ to fine tune the sound coming out of your cab. Doesn't have to be perfect, but you're aiming for a sound you're happy with out of both. The real cab is used just for you on stage to have that real amp feel, and the FOH gets the virtual cab signal. Everyone wins. I played several shows with this setup when I had a Helix (and bands still played live?).

    This is my perspective as a "serious" hobbiest musician with a day job who doesn't aim to make any money from music. If you send your friends a Bandcamp link, you'll be lucky if they listen to it once all the way through. If you send them a Spotify link, they think you're special (they don't realize it just takes $40 or so for a Distrokid account) and add the song to their playlists. Then maybe you get lucky and other playlists add one of your songs, and you get a lot more exposure.


    Also, if my music is on Spotify, I can listen to it along with other music that isn't mine.


    Finally, it's kind of a fun thing to see your own band recommended to you in a playlist.

    For "attack," are you referring to the Pick parameter? I just went looking for a control labeled "Attack" and didn't find anything. ?

    Frankly, I don't think metal players make up a lot of Kemper users, like, say, Fractal. Which makes sense to me because where I think Kemper really kills the competition is in clean and edge-of-breakup tones.


    Thanks for the kind words! For this song, I quad tracked with the Diezel panned hard left and 75% left, and the Recto panned hard right and 75% right.

    The stage is blazing fast to me. It takes about 20 seconds to start up, which is typical for a processor of this caliber (Helix and Fractal FM3 also take this long to start). Patch changes are instant, which is very unusual for processors. In fact, one of the reasons why I sold my Fractal FM3 was because of the lag when changing scenes which are supposed to be fast. I don't think you'd be disappointed with the Stage.

    Thanks! This song was recorded with a 6 string Music Man Sub 1 tuned to drop B. I quad tracked the heavy rhythm guitars. I tried a bunch of paid and stock profiles, and ended up going with Lars Luettge Diesel Hagen 1960AV for one side, and Guidorist MeBo Sing Text 808 for the other. Both are stock profiles.

    Oh, sorry. I misunderstood and thought you were looking for advice instead of discussion. Sorry for mansplaining!

    I don't like too much gain for my overall tone. In real life or on a modeler, it's 0 for drive, 5-7 for tone, and 10 for level. On the Kemper, the I usually set the level at 3.5 or so, and depending on the tightness of the profile, put the mix around 90%.

    Here's a similar thread where I responded and attached some of the stock profiles that I've tweaked to be tight. Not sure how djenty you're after - my patches might be a little mid-heavy for super djenty 7-8 string brootal riffz, but maybe it'll help.


    Advice dialing in metal tones, understanding parameters?


    I actually recorded some quick scratch tracks with Neural DSP Omega Granophyre last night after strictly using my Kemper for the last few months, and the first thing I thought was "damn, this plugin sounds loose and flubby." ?

    This might not be the answer you're looking for, but if I'm looking for a boosted high gain riff tone, I usually do 1 of 3 things.


    1. Simply turn up the gain. I'm not being pedantic here. A lot of my favorite high gain profiles keep their tightness when the gain goes up.

    2. Look for a profile that was recorded with a boost. ReampZone usually included boosted profiles in their metal amp packs.

    3. Adjust the Clarity and Definition controls. I discovered this recently, and messing with these usually give me the tightness I'm looking for.


    I tried the typical process of adding the Green Screen (Tubescreamer) in front with gain at 0 and volume at 9-10, but that just didn't have the same affect as it does with other modelers (Helix, Fractal, Neural DSP in my experience). Maybe because Kemper isn't actually a modeler. ?‍♂️

    I also came from a Helix, then Fractal FM3, and now Kemper Stage. My typical process for setting up a metal patch on the Helix and Fractal was to 1. pick a high gain amp, 2. put a boost in front, and 3. add an EQ after the amp and get the mids where I want them. This process works for most modelers.

    Well, turns out Kemper isn't a modeler, so that process didn't give me good results. Think of it as an IR for a whole amp chain. Here are a few tips for getting good heavy tones that work for me:

    1. For me, the best stock metal tones on the Kemper are in the Lars Luettge pack. Guidorista also has some good ones. Start with those. Also look for Jevo's 5150III rigs on the Rig Exchange

    2. If you're up for paid profiles, ReampZone has some great high quality packs

    3. Look for rigs that were actually recorded with a boost

    4. Instead of adding a boost/drive, adjust the Definition and Clarity. To my ears, cranking the clarity sounds like adding a boost. The two settings are pretty interactive with eachother

    5. Try using different cabs with the rigs. I've found 4-5 cabs that I really love that sound really thicc. If I find a rig that I like the gain and character, but maybe it doesn't sound big and thick, I'll change the cab. That usually gives me what I want.

    I've attached some of my metal / heavy profiles based on free rigs. Maybe they'll work for you. metal-rigs.zip

    Bought a used one from Pitbull Audio on Reverb for $1500, and it's been great. Also might as well have been brand new. This thing is built like a tank, so I can't imagine it having issues. I would imagine that most of the used ones on the market now are from people who bought it, didn't really understand it or jive with it, and then sold it shortly after. Of course, YMMV, but I personally had concern buying a used one from a reputable dealer with a return policy.

    I might be in the minority here, but I honestly don't care that much about 100% accuracy. There are so many variables - mics, cabs, rooms, tube brands, biasing, manufacturing variations, etc - that going for exact accuracy seems a little pointless. I certainly don't care if the profile / model I use is 100% accurate to an actual version as long as it sounds great.


    "Man, I love the way this Kemper Stage sounds, and it's so easy to use. But I'm returning it because I can't adjust the brightness cap on the 1968 bandmaster by 2 jiggavolts."


    For me personally, it's about 1. Good tones (amps and effects), and 2. A great user interface. And this Kemper Stage has some gorgeous industrial design going on. Anyone else feel this way?