I've had JBL 308s for years, they're great monitors for the price. I'm looking to move to the Adam T-series, but mainly because I have the companion Adam sub and I'm partial to ribbon tweeters . Since I've got the sub I'll probably go with the T5Vs, it's a bit of overkill with the 8" drivers in the JBLs. They have plenty of bass for listening without the sub.
Posts by franknputer
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Pole piece adjustments are for fine-tuning the relative power of each string. If the E's pole is not raised already then you should try lowering the bass side of the pickup a bit first. The farther away the less power, which doesn't exactly translate into more/less bass but lowering the power of the E string in relation to the others would probably help.
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My guess is that it's just an artifact of the build process. You have to debug UB software on an M1, because an Intel Mac won't be able to run the arm64 code. Since the M1 has Rosetta2, that lets you test the Intel side of the app. Not sure if that also affects the installers themselves, but it would make some sense if you had to pick one architecture or the other.
At any rate, in a couple years Rosetta2 will probably go the way of the original Rosetta. -
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Is there a code needed?
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At the end of the day it's whatever works best for you. Most DAWs have similar feature sets, often the devil is in the details of how it was implemented. If it stays out of your way and helps you be creative, that's about the best you can ask for.
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My thoughts, after owning numerous DAWs over the years:
If you're on a Mac, then Logic is a great choice if you want an all-around DAW to compose with. IMHO it's geared more towards creatives than engineers, it's really great to get things moving along quickly when you're writing.Reaper is awesome for audio handling. Very intuitive to get going, cross-platform (a major drawback with Logic Pro), and rock-solid. Its MIDI development lagged behind for a long time, but it's since been fleshed out quite a bit. Also, given the price and the licensing scheme it's a fantastic first DAW, since you get all the features (but you really should buy your license if you keep it - I did!)
Studio One has come a long way very fast. Great overall environment, cross-platform, supposed to be very solid although I did have issues last time I tried it. A bit pricey to get the full feature set.
Pro Tools - overpriced, overrated. If it works for you that's great, but IMO they've been coasting on its reputation for being the "professional choice" since outboard hardware was needed for more intensive work. Those days are long gone, and they haven't kept pace with their competition enough to justify the price tag & the hassles of Avid licensing. I paid for two versions along the way; took training, and really wanted to master it but it was always coming up short.
Ableton Live - expensive, but if you pay attention to the release timings you can get in on sale prices and save some bucks. Live (and Bitwig) are different beasts - more like DAW-as-an-instrument. Not that you can't record every bit as well as the competition, but then you're really not taking advantage of what they offer. Steep learning curve to really get into it, but if you like geeking out on digital audio then it's amazingly powerful. -
I read back over this, I should have done that before my last comment...
I'm not disputing the OPs claim, because I don't know enough of the details. I had to reach out to support about the battery issue and they were quite helpful, so I have no reason to think they're being unreasonable either. I can say, though, that there are a lot of variable in the described recording chain.
I'd suggest this: try connecting both via SPDIF (if that really matters to your workflow) and analog simultaneously. Download Reaper - it will run without licensing it - and record both inputs. See if you still have the issue, and is it with both tracks? That might narrow down the cause. If you have access to another recorder all the better. -
Yeah, that sounds like a malfunctioning unit to me.
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Sold, thanks for looking.
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I think the string gauge may be a big factor in the adjustment too. I have a bad habit of switching gauges trying to figure out what works best and dont really take into consideration the effect that would have on the setup
That will do it for sure. Aside from the slight change in string diameter there's a significant change in tensioning, which basically means the curve of the neck will shift.
There's definitely something to be said for a pro setup - someone that has a lot of experience and all the tools can make your guitar a real joy to play. However, it's also true that it's not that hard to adjust the action. You need to find the correct truss rod wrench (and it doesn't have to be a "truss rod wrench", but there are a few different ways they're made and you need one that fits correctly that you can turn when it's in place). I'd get the feeler gauges too - you can ballpark it without one, but honestly they're super cheap and will last forever. -
TC Electronics BAM 200 (with some settings to drive it flat (search thread about amp for kabinet)) !
Just for reference, I took note when I picked up a BAM200 for testing:
Bass - 10 o'clock
Mids - 4 o'clock
Treble - 11 o'clock -
Currently using an old MosValve mv-962 into a 2x12 cab with a pair of Celestion F12M-150 speakers wired for stereo. Need to get everything dialed in, but generally it sounds great.
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The Warm Audio passive DI works quite well.
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Hello All!
I was going to start a new thread, but I read through this one, and I think I can just post here. I just bought a Kemper (unpowered toaster version). And similar to one of the posters, I just want to simply play guitar via Kemper with YouTube backing tracks (maybe one day I will look into recording).
I have my guitar plugged into the the front input of the Kemper. Then I have a TS cable (an extra guitar cable I had laying around) going from Main Output RIGHT (I have also tried LEFT) going into the Channel 2 input in front of my Focusright Scarlett Solo unit (the only option for plugging in). In the OUTPUT section of the Kemper, I have set Main Output to MASTER MONO.
Finally, the Focusrite is connected to my new MacBook Pro via USB (using an adaptor). Also, my monitors are connected to the back of the Focusrite.
My computer audio comes out great (YouTube or my music collection), but I cannot get my guitar to come through the monitors. How can I accomplish this?
I have plugged in headphones into the Kemper unit itself and it sounds awesome! When I plug the headphones into the Focusrite, I can't hear anything. Finally, I have plugged my monitor speakers directly into the Kemper's Main Output Unit (stereo), and that sounded great! But I can't seem to get my Computer audio and my Kemper/Guitar audio to come out of the speakers together.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
If you're not recording your instrument & are just playing along with the laptop, you need to press the Direct Monitor button on the front of the Scarlett. That routes the input signal back to the output so you can hear it without going through the computer.
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Got this back in November, only used in the studio a couple of times to test speakers with my Kemper Stage. Great little amp, I've just moved up to a stereo amp so I don't need it. $150 shipped in the US - sorry, rest of the world, but international shipping is too much hassle.
My reverb shop profile is below, so you can see my feedback. I've not posted this there, but if you prefer going through Reverb let me know & I'll post it but it will raise the price a bit (only to offset taxes & Reverb fee, no additional money for me and shipping is still included).
https://reverb.com/shop/willowhaus-audio -
I'd hit it.
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red Ibanez JS2480 - my first guitar with a Sustainiac
Fun, aren't they? I need to get a pic to post, but the newest guitar I have is the Reverend RG-SUS, the one with the Sustaniac.
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Hey smalltownsongs - (willowhaus from the treehouse here) did you ever sort your problem? Shopping for speakers myself...