If your friend's sounded better than your's ask him if you he would take a look at your configuration by sending him your backup file , and comparing output settings etc. Just remind whomever does it to back up their unit prior to doing it. Also from your description it sounds like you may have lost signal somehow also.
Posts by hatergrater
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I find that my sound(s) transfer great from home studio and monitors to IEM’s, speaker cab with a Kemper Kone, to FOH. They all pretty much sound the same. I output at -24db but my profiles are pretty loud too. I think somewhere along the line you are not hearing something right between creating and auditioning the profiles and FOH. How are you monitoring the profiles when you are creating/setting them up?
Are you saying you are mic'ing your kemper cab or you are going from your monitor out or what?
I do not think they cut the frequencies they say they do. I think they shelve them , cause you can cut above 80 hz on a graphic , but when you go to the 80 hz band and boost the gain on it you hear it coming back in.
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If you have a Daw ( digital audio workstation) , and some kind of eq matching software you can use the Andy sneap method. He explains it in the video I have linked I assume this would be the best for workflow, without doing more brainstorming or waiting around for them all.
"You can even Beat your tone with the Profiler" Andy Sneap in Interview - YouTube
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I liked your ‘meh’ comment better.
nobody tells you to shut up , so don't infer or imply what my responses should be.
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I call it amateur!.. these guys are too stupid to let the PA do the work, got to crank that fender twin to 8 and blow everyone in the venue and the people on stage away because the guy needs to heard, all while he has ear plugs in and the sound man is like “ what the F!”… 😆 there is a steel guitar player in this town that does that, and I’m not naming names.
200 class d watts are not the same as 200 tube amp watts. Frequency loss occurs from the variable difference in frequency response between a lower wattage class d amp versus a lower wattage tube amp , and it's speaker load. Now factor in the room and objects in it.
- yours truly An amateur that knows more than you.
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I call it amateur!.. these guys are too stupid to let the PA do the work, got to crank that fender twin to 8 and blow everyone in the venue and the people on stage away because the guy needs to heard, all while he has ear plugs in and the sound man is like “ what the F!”… 😆 there is a steel guitar player in this town that does that, and I’m not naming names.
this thread was getting a bit out of hand. I removed three posts to calm things down.
We will not tolerate attacks / aggression towards other members of this forum.
The people involved (you know who you are) would benefit from reading other threads to see what kind of posts make up this forum.
Be polite, be kind, please.HMMM.....
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higher wattage option would be cool. So far out of all the stuff I have tried the class d amp works best with the kemper kone.
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A 200 watt speaker with a 200 watt amp.
What would be the point of adding more wattage?200 class d watts ... hello ? You know anything about amps and sound pressure level?
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Meh. Kemper are not known for cowing to public opinion. They listen - but their schedule has never seemed to be anything but their own.
Sometimes updates are under the hood that no one sees.so basically ..... " womp womp womp "
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Keep in mind not all FRFR sources are flat response. I prefer the kemper cab or studio monitors , the only thing I have not tried a lot that I have is a fryette lxii to power my 4x12. The kemper cab with the class d is just too satisfying. I have yet to find an frfr wedge that is not heavily colored in some way. Sometimes you can use an application called spectroid to figure out which sources produce what as long as you are not dealing with room reflections and other transient inducers.
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lol ya right, that is gonna happen.
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That will never happen.
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I've noticed that a number of the switches on my Remote are beginning to stick when pressed. Is this a sign they need replacing, or would some switch cleaner solve the problem?
If the remote is out of warranty you need to figure out if it is the springs on the foot button or the buttons on the pcb board , or you need to clear the flash memory on your kemper or decrease files. If you ever spray anything in it only use deoxit brand products , and sparingly. Sometimes high concentrate isopropyl alcohol works well but it will likely be hard on the actual white button.