A Strat with Floyd Rose and a Dimarzio PAF Pro would be a good starting point.
Posts by DonPetersen
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look for a Marshall JVM 205 Profile, provided the amp in the video is actually the amp being played.
probably a TS like pre-amp Boost/OD and some careful EQ-ing in the desk.
also a pretty amazing right hand technique, overdubs, and layering with bass and drums.IOW,
no guitar on it's own will ever quite sound this way
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Hello and welcome!
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Haha..... The Don don't mix his words.
you're right, that wasn't very nice.
I added a 'please' -
chrisaltherya no more <code> nonsense please
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after way more years than I'm comfortable to admit, I realized I was automatically going for 'heavy bottom' sets, which in hindsight was quite counter-productive.
I set up my guitars to have a nice even output/string balance, which means I have to move the bass side of the pickups further away from the strings than the treble side (more mass moving in the magnetic window -> more output).
heavy bottom sets make that even more extreme, so I went for a 'normally' balanced set (9-42 for example) and that made balancing and achieving a great live/recording tone much easier.
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Do you know how a tool like Sim One XT-1 seem to manage to get good acoustic guitar results even with humbuckers ? I know there is a kind of pre-calibration adjusted to the guitar.
my guess is that it's a match-EQ.
EQ is a wonderful tool, but converting a HB tone to SC tone never worked for me. -
My PRS does not have this push/pull Pot you speak of. Sounds useful though.
it seems that, as is so often the case, the main issue lies at the signal's source.
In the interest of keeping the information in this thread concise and helpful, would it be possible for you ( prsgary ) to try the Acoustic Simulator with a guitar that has a single coil in the neck position?
EQing a humbucker to sound like a single coil won't work IME, the high end is gone (due to phase cancellation IIRC) and there is nothing one can do about it. -
I am currently working on a project recording early 60's instrumental surf, spy, and spaghetti western music
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I have a feeling that the semi-hollow element is masking the sim. Not to mention the humbuckers too. I have a 335 and it doesn't sound anything like an acoustic while using this sim. Now my old squier strat on neck pickup sounds very much like and acoustic and is quite usable...
it's the humbuckers - Strat neck pickup is probably the best starting point!
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I'd start by using a pickup (combination) that is closest to an acoustic signal on it's own already - very often this is a Strat-type single coil in the neck position. The prominent lower and higher frequencies plus the reduced mid range response of those pickups is similar to what we are used to hear from an acoustic.
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please make a backup and contact support.
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do you have any (expression) pedals connected?
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Ive noticed it seems to sound alot more realistic using single coils though or coil tapped humbuckers.
Alot more chimey sounding.
Has anymore else noticed this?
that's not really surprising, is it?
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I will try it with a profiled Acoustic Guitar Amp and see how it sounds.
The general idea behind an amp for acoustic guitar is completely neutral amplification.
You already get that in perfection by turning off the AMP and CABINET.
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please check DLY+REV Routing (in Rig Settings)
Main Manual page 220 ff.
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Sure you don't have it on strobe? I find it near impossible to keep it steady on strobe it's far too sensitive.
Strobe is fantastic. The pitch of an oscillating string will never be steady. Tune the attack, play a steady stream of notes, nobody will ever hear what your string settles on after 5 seconds or so - the attack portion is what you hear all the time.
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Little confused here, what does the treb booster have to do with it? I don't see a treb booster in the ac20 profile.
oops,
you're right of course - it is an eq - acting as a custom treble booster
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What about a pre amp boost/shaper section in the amp block? This would work! It could also be kinda generic like the amp eq.
The Definition parameter is already way more powerful than any traditional EQ/Tonestack could be.
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But if the order made no difference, why is there a pre and post button and why is there obviously a huge sound difference when boosting highs and presence etc. post ?
EQ pre or post AMP obviously makes a big difference - pre or post CABINET does not matter
