The idea of correcting for the room is not what is needed. Correcting for the speaker's response curve is a great idea though. We do this anyways in the KPA's Monitor EQ. It would be nice if this EQ was a multi band (10?) parametric which could be set through a test algorithm and calibration mic located in close proximity. This would be done once with initial use of a new monitor. Being able to save the EQ as a preset would be perfect.
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If CC# 72 current value is ignored on patch change then what happens when you move the expression pedal after a patch change? My guess is that the gain would bump to the exp pedal value which might create a nasty spike in volume...not good. The fix is to have KPA CC assignments per patch. Right now its global. That would be more versatile but is a huge change.
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Elementary Dear Watson....Its your guitar not the KPA! If other guitars work fine with the same known good cable, then your LP most likely has a bad output jack or, less likely, a wiring issue.
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The response of a speaker is typically measured with a calibrated reference mic. Even the mic isn't trully flat response but it is close and there is a way to offset the measurement results with the Mic's response curve. A sine wave swept from 20hz to 20khz can be used. Pink or white noise can also be used.
For us, the best method is to compare various rigs against your favorite studio headphones or reference monitors. The mist important thing is for your rigs to sound good whether run through direct PA connection, your FRFR stage speakers of choice, or your reference headphones. When you have achieved this, your tones will be accurate and translate well.
On the other hand, if you have a severely colored speaker and compensate in your rigs to correct it, your tones will be unbalanced to everything else (not translate well).
Remember that guitarists are tone snobbs. We have an ideal tone in our heads that we strive to achieve...even with a traditional amp. Unfortunately, once the signal hits the mixer, its out of our hands. Our perfect stage tone is altered. Working with the house eq to get the PA flat for a given room helps. Ultimately, the audience won't care if its not exactly the same....it hardly ever is anyways!
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Guitar to MIDI allows what you describe and has been around a long time. I play "other sounds" from my guitar at every show.This works by detecting pitch and velocity and converting to MIDI to drive a synth.
Analog synthesis that morphs a guitar sound directly to any sound you like is not possible today. Morphing to simple sounds like sine or square waves is already being done. Kemper can accomplish this already and more filters can be created to enhance this.
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What would be perfect is a "lead boost" setting in the Amp section. We could then specify a db boost with pre or post amp position for each rig. Give it a CC# to control it and that would be very usable. The global boost may not be the right boost for all songs so individual boost per rig is best.
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+1. That would be great.
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In the modeling world, it is important not to stray too far from a neutral uncolored sounding monitor. The more
faithful the reproduction of sound, the closer the profile is to the original amp. If you have hyped speakers, the tendency is to tweak your profile to compensate. Now your FOH feed is affected. Its a losing battle.
Use a set of reference monitors or studio headphones as your 'standard" for tweaking your tones and pick an FRFR solution that sounds good to your ears without reworking/adjusting your rigs. If your monitoring solutions are too different, keeping your tone consistent is a daunting task.
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If an FRFR speaker is trully "Full Range Flat Response", you aren't "playing guitar through a 15 inch speaker" or s 10 or 12 inch speaker. You are playing through a speaker system designed to transparently recreate the sound waves without additional tonal alterations. That's the theory anyways!
No speaker system is perfect but there are 8" inch studio monitors that are wonderful and 12" systems that are crap. Your ears decide which is which. Apparently these Yamaha 10" speakers are very nice sounding.
Btw, my PA has 15" mid-low drivers in the tops so I guess I do play guitar through a 15 inch speaker (and 8" midrange, 3" horns) 
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I agree with Quitty. This is a raw deal for Gianfranco and a bit over the line. Not cool. I don't think there is an excusable explanation. "Oops" isn't good enough.
A proper collaborative effort and integration of Gianfranco's document would be the starting point. That would be the best move.
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Let us know when you get your KPA on order.
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Gianfranco, check your PayPal.
Guys, please consider contributing to Gianfranco for his continued efforts. Did you know he has no KPA??? He should! What an incredible effort from a guy that doesn't even own the device he has so tediously documented.
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Viabcroce, Specify you account or PM it to me and I will make a post to solicited some support for your efforts. I don't buy profiles as I am a DIY kind of guy....but well written how-to manuals like your Wiki are very valuable to me.
I understand Italy is experiencing hard times. It is tough world wide right now....but that is no reason to ignore the efforts you have made. I'm sure a few folks here would like to contribute!
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I just can't believe Viobroce doesn't have a KPA , with all his knowledge and care with the Wike
Someone offer to open a Paypal account on Viabcroce's behalf and I'll donate a few bucks towards his KPA fund. His Wiki is a very solid effort and contribution to the Kemper community.
Viabcroce, you do play guitar, right?
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I would be concerned with the high instantaneous torque from a sudden jolt while moving the rack. Bumping the edge of a doorway would be an example. A small bump can generate more force on the screws than tipping the rack sideways due to the leverage exerted by the inertia of the gear. Better safe than sorry! I'd hate to see your two screws strip the threads in the foot mounts.
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Here's an easy solution to allow all 4 screws to secure the KPA. Enlarge the holes in the shelf or drill new holes. Use a washer with each screw to allow it to work with the larger holes.
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The non-amplified KPA is a low wattage device and, unlike a mcrowave or toaster oven, can not draw enough current to heat up a power cord unless there is an internal short. A short will draw a huge instantaneous current which will blow any fuse under 20 amps. You will gain no additional protection by sizing the fuse closely to the actual draw. Without a fuse the power chord could ignite if a circuit breaker upstream didn't trip. In the US, 15 (or 20 on heavy duty outlets) amp circuit breakers are required by law so we don't need a fuse at the device chord.
Monitors are power devices with higher current draw. They are designed to deliver peak outputs well above their RMS rated output to allow for good transient response. In the event of runaway feedback or some other overdrive situation, the inline fuse can save them from damage....so absolutely you should use the recommended fuse size and type. The type determines how fast the fuse blows.
I am an electrical engineer so I have a lot of experience with this subject. Of course, my disclaimer is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations! I'm glad to hear Kemper has responded.
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Guys...put a 2amp fuse in and be done with it. The fuse is for safety in the case of short circuit. If a short occurs, the amp draw will be very high and any fuse smaller than the circuit breaker rating of the wall jack outlet will blow. Its not there to protect the KPA, its there to protect you. We don't even have fused chords in the USA version. That's what the circuit breaker is there for.
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Mackie's VLZ04 mini 4 channel mixer has decent preamps and fantom power for $99. It would do what you want.
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