Posts by Gizmo

    I've had this for a few years and used to gig with it tuned to open G for slide. My bandmates called it Mr. Ugly

    It's a Lindert Conductor, USA made around 1998, company went bust early 2000's

    Made from Mother of Toilet Seat and sounds surprisingly good.

    Dig that crazy headstock. After a particularly memorable solo in the right local venue and after the required amount of alcohol, I used to point it at the dance floor and get them to give me a "thumbs-up" back.

    I don't change the input settings for the different guitars - I want them to sound different from each other.

    Ditto, haven't changed mine in a couple of years and I typically play a Strat, a 330 and a 335 in the same gig. It's actually quite a pain to change the settings on a small, cramped dark stage, especially without my super-duper strength reading glasses!

    It never worked with one cable though, the midi communication is bi- directional, thus 2 midi cables are required plus one cable for mains.

    My 1010 uses only one MIDI cable. Instead of putting the power over one of the cables, I combined MIDI in/out into one connector on the 1010 and split it out to two at the KPA end. I can now use one 50ft MIDI cable if I need to instead of two. (as long as it has5 conductors, some don't)

    Made my setup much easier.

    I've used this method now for several other projects and it works just fine.


    Needless to say, you do have to know what you are doing and be decent with an iron, but it's not that complicated.


    I think in addition to the record and overdub modes, we really need a "replace" mode.

    In this mode, after you have already recorded a loop, if you step on record again, you begin to create an entirely new loop that replaces the old one.



    So as a trial, I just re-wrote some of the code on my home built pedal to erase the loop and restart recording if a loop is already playing and you hit record again....basically a replace mode.


    Worked quite nicely. Very cool!!


    I think I'll add a little toggle to my pedal to enable this mode and try it some more as I was a bit too excited to hit the pedal at exactly the right time haha


    Great suggestion nightlight.

    As Alan says, you need CC 50-54 to select each rig in every performance.


    If you look at the RF8 on the same web site (which sounds a lot like the RF4 you refer to), it does have programmable MIDI capability, but only CC80 to CC87 and PC0 to PC7. I would assume the RF4 is similar, but only PC0-3.


    If I'm not mistaken, you can use PC0-3 to select slots 1-4 but only in Performance #1, as rigs in other performances will have a higher number that is a combination of Perf number and Slot number.


    You can also assign any 4 rigs in Browse mode to PC 0-3


    Personally, I think this is a very limited capability for probably a high outlay and if it was me, I'd just use a simple two button switch to select rig up/down, either in Browse or Performance mode. This way you can access every slot in every performance once the performance has been selected.

    Jean-Michel Jarre has been a hero of mine since I first heard him in the 70's.

    Just watched a video where he talks about music and there's a Toaster sitting on top of one of his many synths ...and it's even switched on.

    Here's the full video for anyone who might be interested.

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    You got the look ;) LOL But not for me as it send the message : I had enough money for a kemper but now don't ask me to buy anything more, even a stand , I'm broke

    haha

    I also use a pro stand when I play on big stages...

    This setup takes up only the space of one chair and on most of my gigs, this is about as much space as I get.

    When I play my Gibson 330 through it , I send the right message to the audience!

    I’ve used this arrangement on about 20 gigs, with the DXR10 standing on a chair.I had previously used it with the DX on its side, but without rubber underneath it, it vibrated off the chair.


    With the rubber feet on the bottom of the DX, it is very steady and doesn’t move.


    The platform is basically a piece of scrap aluminium and some rubber foam that I screw to the DX handle. A home made strap goes under the platform and secures the KPA to it with tie wraps used as loops.


    Works very well for me, even on a crowded stage and it puts the KPA at the perfect height.


    As HCarlH says, an external boot disk should work just fine, but better to use Firewire or USB 3 rather than USB2.


    Another option if you have a large enough internal drive is to make another partition (volume) and install a later OS to use with KPA stuff.

    If your drive is big enough you could even split it in half and clone your whole original drive, then update that. If it doesn't meet your needs, then simply remove it again and you are back to where you were. I actually never update my original drive without first trying it out with a clone.

    - Went through a series of frustrating trials for a couple of years with a bunch of different amps/cabs.

    - Got smart and bought an Atomic CLR, sounded great. Was happy for a while. It wasn't the Neo and was big and heavy.

    - Got smarter and replaced it with a DXR10. Sounded almost as good but boy was it easier to move around (and cheaper).


    Been like that for nearly 3 years and I'll probably never change it.


    I use the DXR10 on it's own in small places with no full PA

    With bigger rooms I send a feed to FOH and use the DXR10 as backline. I don't usually get a feed into the stage monitors.


    Only disadvantage to me is that it's harder to sit the KPA on top of the DX. With the CLR it was easy.

    I dont move my KPA and the cables are really snug. They do NOT move, whatsoever.

    And it's still unreliable and wastes my time every day just trying to get the thing to work

    Just fyi, when I say move, I mean imperceptibly, not inches or cm or even close. My plug is snug (haha) and my cable quite firm. Sometimes just pushing on a KPA button can do it.

    Wasted a lot of my time too swapping cables and interfaces.

    May be unrelated, but my SPDIF connection at the KPA end has always been unreliable.

    Several different interfaces and good cables.

    Very often if I move my KPA or the cable just a bit, the signal dies. I have to push it in hard and twist it to get it to work. Once it is working, it works until either the KPA or the cable is moved.

    I put it down to a poor SPDIF socket.