Posts by K3MP3R

Yeah I'm with Lightbox on this. When I see an great product it always comes to mind what other good stuff could be in the works.

To be honest I've always liked using the tills cabs, even with a lot of paid profiles. They are to me how I change the amps feel. As in I feel like the amp is the attitude while the cabinet is the projection which we are sending out. Cheesy analogy I know but with speakers, even FRFR, the cabinet is still the best method for me to change the character and mood of the amps.

When I kept seeing that the cab packs were last updated more than a year ago it had me asking: "Where is this guy, and I wonder what he is working on now" Well trust me the wait was well worth it. It does not matter if you just want the cabs or the amps it is worth it either way.

Another thing I like is they are just Chimera amps, not peaveys and mesas etc. You don't have to go into this thing thinking, "Oh now I can sound like Band A or Guitar player B". You just have this great tone that says, "Yeah this will work for that riff I'm working on or will make that fill in my mix stand out more" .

That is really the most valuable benefit to me at this point in my path with music is to have all the profiles that sound good, but be able to throw away the nametags and just say this is the sound I'm looking for.

I could write an elaborate review to "sell" this product, but this is pure and simple the way I feel about this pack and what it has to offer.

The setting at 440 is doing what is supposed to do. My concern is that a couple of times it was just above or below 440 and when I went to adjust it to 440 noticed it is very sensitive to adjust. Having a soft button above to reset to 440 would make this a lot quicker to do.

I was actually going to put a request to add a soft key that would "reset" the tuner to 440 because I noticed the setting has been off a few times for me and with the highly sensitive dial it could save a lot of time (especially if a person noticed this on stage and needed a quick tune).

If you really need something to tide you over you can use pretty much any RCA cable. The composite (yellow for tv) should be your best bet as they are going to be closer to the 75ohm rating. The 75ohm rating will start to become really important with very long lengths. If you are using 3-10 ft I don't see cable ohmage being a fator that will affect your signal quality. (I believe a cable that uses RG-6 can achieve 75ohm the closest) Please save your money for a speaker fund or something. Digital cables like SPDIF and HDMI are on-off, there is no quality factor like an analog cable that can pick up interference. 10-20 bucks is more than enough if you shop online for a good SPDIF cable.

I'm not saying there is no difference between a specifically designed SPDIF cable and a RCA or Composite, so if you need one you should buy one, but the others should work fine to tide you over. If you squeeze the the loose connector you have now you risk damaging or scratching the KPA connector, so keep that in mind.

Your ears will break in and give you the perception of the sound you are looking for more than the speakers will break in and sound better.

I recommend watching this to anyone who is new to or adjusting to pretty much anything audio to keep you from going to far down the rabbit hole and overwhelming yourself with different ideas or perspectives on sound. (I think I found it on here)

It is an hour so get to it when you can make the time.

Very nice Tyler. This pack deserves a proper review and I will try and get one here for you here in a few days (even though I want those extra cabs now). There is just too many good things to quickly flip through them and give a quick review. I want to try different guitars and speakers and styles because I hear so much potential in a bunch of them. Some pretty tight ones too, so I'm going to try some 7 and 8 sting riffs too. I did try out a bunch of cabs with other rigs and it made a lot of them really appealing. Bad thing is now I am going to have to go and re-review a lot of rigs I got rid of because these cabs will probably now put some of them on the keepers list again.

My ears are overwhelmed so I am taking a break so I can go back at it with a fresh perspective later on.

Could I ask why there are so many people that profile the 5153? I like the profiles, just wondering why the preference over the 5150 and 6505 for so many people.

Thanks Tyler. I use your free cabs quite a bit, so I decided to buy your Chimaera pack as a donation. After checking out the demo's, I may actually like them so I will give them a good auditioning.

BTW: I could not find "Canada" in the country list, but I did find "Kanada", so I chose that. Just wanted to point it out to you as I am not sure if it is a typo or translation error.

I am packaging up my CLR wedge and for some reason am having a hard time figuring the proper placement in the box. I know this sounds trivial, but with the wedge shaped CLR and a square box, there are three triangle cardboard inserts and 8 corner foam inserts that need to be in the proper place or it just wont fit properly.

I am usually pretty good at this kind of stuff, so I just need a starting point like how the CLR is placed and/ or where one or two of the cardboard inserts go then I can figure out the rest like a normal puzzle.

Updated status:

One DXR10 sold and the Atomic CLR is back on sale.

This only does this in tuner mode, amp and performance are fine. That is why I did not troubleshoot signal paths and cables. Also tried a few guitars and some showed more than others.

In case you still wanted signal path it is:

Guitar-cable-profiler-monitor out to mixer-mixer out to PA amp- PA to speakers.

I noticed some weird kind of pitch shifting and fast alterations when in tuner mode. It is hard to explain so I added a clip with some random stuff played so you can hear yourself. I was wondering if it was just the last beta so I upgraded to the latest stable and it is still present. Have not tried distorted but with a clean amp it is pretty apparent. Every time you hear the bassy and high pitch twitches, the notes bounces around in the tuner bubble level in sync. It does show up more for me with a single coil guitar as well.

[Soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/kevlar-randall/11-13-19-40[/soundcloud]

Edit: Can I request forum support for sound cloud as well? (unless I did something wrong)

I put in the new chip and everything is working as it should be now. So I guess my prediction was correct that my first chip somehow got missed being programed with the U4K firmware.

Bumped for pricing update.

I have a POD HD500 great condition, never left the house and a Blackstar HT5 used twice and put back in the box. These two I was planning on putting on ebay but if anybody wants to take a stab at them with an offer, feel free.

Everything comes in original boxes.

POD HD500 $300 CAD shipped.

Blackstar HT-5 Head $300 CAD shipped

All items include shipping to US and Canada. Want shipping further, you pay difference.


I am located in Canada

When it comes to solid state amps your better off getting more than trying to match your speakers (you have a volume knob on the amp for matching) Not only does it leave you with headroom for more speaker arrangements but you are going to sound better and not clip if the volume is not cranked. Just a note though, overkill is no good either. You still want a usable volume knob.

I just ordered the chip and will update once it gets here. Though I will not know for sure what I said is correct until it gets here.

OK, an update.

I found a guide for the original uno and once 1 pressed button six then down, it went into program mode.

This is good news that my cables and FCB are good, but it means that my U4K chip was not flashed with U4K firmware as it behaves the way the other uno's are supposed to.

I checked my box and the original uno chip is in there meaning the U4K did make it inside the FCB. So I will email them and see if I can get a new replacement or at least a discount.

Thanks Ingolf.

I have 2- 5 pin midi cables connected.

I programmed some more in performance mode. The 1-5 switches do enable the correct 1-5 rigs, though for performances: 00=perf1, 01=perf3, 02=perf5 etc. So something is still off with the up-down arrows functioning.

I cannot program any of the 6-10 buttons as they will not blink no matter how long they are held down for.

I guess I'm gonna put the original chip in and see if the blinking light on the display goes out and see if anything else changes. It could be either a bad chip or ROM flash or the FCB itself.

This is very nice work. It makes for a great search tool.

I made a copy and deleted a few columns put in in list view for anyone that wants some more search options to sort by that the RE does not show.

https://docs.google.com/spread…QlJDc2trLWc&rm=full#gid=0

More columns if you need more search options but it also may be a pain with the extra column scrolling over the first link.

https://docs.google.com/spread…usp=sharing&rm=full#gid=0

I finally got around to trying this footboard. I have hooked it up as described and:

- I get no confirmation from Kemper that it has been connected.
-only two digits and a constant blinking decimal in this format: first digit blank: blinking decimal: Zero: Zero
-the two zeros will range from 00-09 using the up-down arrows
-the 1-5 will randomly change rigs depending on 00-09 position with no noticed order or pattern
-no connection led for either connection 1 or connection 2

So I'm basically asking what this looks like and if it has been noticed by anyone else.

I'm hoping that it is something easy like a cable or the chip placement. (Yes cables are the right way - no I cannot remember which way I put the chip in)

First time using the FCB, so I may have to put the old chip in and see if it may be the FCB if it still acts the same.