Posts by MrMan

    Play using the hottest guitar signal you might normally use for whatever clean sound you're tweaking, ie. humbuckers with full volume. Lower the Clean Sens until the input LED is barely flashing red. That's your baseline. If you find it too loud/quiet after setting Clean Sens, use amp volume or rig volume to balance it with the other rigs. The profile should now respond as expected. Plus if you want to use the same presets with guitars that have noticeably different output levels, you can now also use Clean Sens to compensate for the volume difference and even save different Input presets for different guitars.

    So the metro 24 is the way to go? Would you prefer it to be non-angled like the Metro is? If I only used 1 expression pedal would the Metro 20 work for me or would it be too tight (really the only thing I am worried about)?


    It really depends on the width of the expression pedal and where the output jack is. The Remote is a little more than 16.5 inches wide so it'd be a really tight fit on a Metro 20 unless you get a small pedal. I prefer the flat Pedaltrain boards when using a tiered controller like the Remote.

    I could conceivably try this. I could have, say 5 banks preloaded for Performance Mode. One for softer stuff, one for heavier, on for dance stuff, etc. And scroll through them as the song requires, and have it set up in the same manner as you, with each button programmed to the same effect. This gives me some ideas.


    That's basically what I do. I'm in an 80s cover band and have basically just 2 performances that cover everything, one mostly for new wave and more effects heavy stuff, and one for rock and hair metal. I've got other performances for my original bands. It's also fun to have amp specific performances, eg. an ENGL Savage performance with Clean, Drive, Crunch, Lead, Lead +, all using profiles made by the same person but with different amp settings.

    I imagine it's so you can use the same patch for multiple different performance slots and tweak it to suit the needs of each without affecting the original patch and without needing to crowd the rig pool with a bunch of cloned copies. You can store rigs that you've created in Performance mode to the Browse pool too, just hit the Rig button and scroll to the first page and you should see a "Store To Pool" option.


    You can copy entire rigs in performance mode, just select the one you want to copy and press the Copy button. Just make sure you're on the default Performance mode view, if you're editing any kind of module it will copy the current module instead.

    Isn't that just for the LCD contrast? I can't remember because I never use the knob on the Remote, but I have tweaked the white LED level control on the KPA. I actually have it set to the max since that seems to give the biggest difference between the lit LED and the dimmed LEDs. Again, this is for being able to more easily see which slot is active at a glance when you're on stage and the adrenaline is pumping.

    Couldn't figure out a clear way to word the title, but basically it would be an option to have the white LEDs for buttons 1-5 completely unlit instead of dimmed when they're not selected, regardless of whether the slot itself is enabled or not. I always have all 5 slots filled and enabled in a Performance, and it's a lot easier to see which preset is selected in the heat of battle when there's only a single lit LED instead of a bunch of dim ones and one brighter one.

    I suspect what you really want is not one that is less stiff but one that has less cable memory and will lie down more as opposed to coiling up. I ordered a custom ethercon cable from Redco because I was tired of the stock cable posing a tripping hazard on stage from being so coily and I wanted something more robust. The new one is much thicker and more durable and I can manage to get it to lay flat or mostly flat when being run across a stage.


    This is the cable I had them use: http://www.redco.com/DURACAT-6-SOLID.html

    Linked Effects: Fractal has a similar thing. Basically, you have a few slots for "linked effects" for each effect type. If you save an effect in one of these slots, every time you tweak a "linked" effect in a preset and then save the preset, all other presets that use that same effect and slot will have their linked effects updated to reflect the changes. This is really useful if you have a favorite lead delay, clean boost, chorus, wah, etc. that you use with multiple presets. If you decide you want to change something, instead of scrolling through EVERY preset and changing each one manually, you can just just use a single linked effect for all those presets and update the effect in only one of them, then it will be applied to all others after resaving the current preset.


    Momentary Effects Switches: This is pretty self explanatory. Allow each of the I-IV buttons on the Remote to be used as momentary switches rather than toggle switches. The most common use for this is probably the Van Halen flanger/phaser effect, a la Unchained and Ain't Talkin Bout Love. It could also be used for a killswitch effect by using the Loop effect, assuming you're not actually using it for anything already.

    I've got a Port City loaded with an 8 ohm Eminence Tonkerlite (125w, I believe) that I've pushed really hard a few times, like power amp boost all the way up and monitor output at -7 dB. I've used it a bunch since the last time I did that and it has no problems. I'd be scared to play very loudly through the EVH 1x12, but it should be okay if you're not blasting it with a bunch of volume or low end. I'd probably check out a DV Mark Neoclassic 112 instead if you can deal with a semi-open back cab.

    MrMan: Running a Kemper/FRFR next to a traditional guitar cab is only fair after the guitar cab get's mic'd and you compare that result. Try out your RCF setup again using Pure Cab, then it's more like apples to apples.



    tayvrown90: Check out Mission Gemini cabs, FRFR that look like real cabs. There are others out there as well, that's just what I use and couldn't be happier. They also thump like mad if you want them to.


    Exactly, that's why I said I'm fine with going FRFR if the other guitarist is mic'd or running direct too. I got rid of the RCF long ago for a powered toaster.

    I only like running full range if everyone else is too (mic'd up or running direct). I tried it with an RCF NX 10 SMA for months and was never happy with the sound balance when the other guitarist was running through a normal guitar cab. This mostly applies to rehearsals. For gigs I run direct, assuming there's a PA, but still use a cab for stage sound if there are other live cabs on stage as well.

    There must be something wrong with your pedal then. I just tried it with a FCB-1010 and it works in pre stomp with a setting of -4.9 i had zero signal and no Tuner showed up. Please try to calibrate your pedal to make sure that it really sends a value of zero at the heel position.


    I've tried it with 3 different pedals, 2 AMT mini expressions and a Boss FV-500L. They work perfectly otherwise so I know they're fine. I just tried them all again and made sure they were calibrated, there's still a small bit of signal that gets through at -4.9 with the heel all the way down. It's picking up on my interface too. It's not actually audible unless I turn my monitors way up, but gig volumes are very loud so it's audible then. I get no signal reading on my interface when the volume range is at -5.0.

    I use an expression pedal connected to the Remote for a dedicated volume pedal. I will often use it to kill my sound between songs or during sections where I need to be quiet, but the tuner display that automatically pops up is very annoying. This was a useful feature before I had the Remote but now it's a hindrance as I'd prefer to see my preset layouts, effects layouts, etc. without having to dismiss the tuner with an additional unnecessary button tap. I'd like an option to disable the automatic tuner pop-up, the dedicated tuner button on the Remote serves me just fine.


    As for the cents readout, it was already shown earlier this year in NAMM videos of the Remote, seems like a very simple addition that would be very beneficial.

    PowerHead user. I've started using the Kemper a lot more live since I got the remote. Before that I used either a 2-button TRS footswitch for scrolling up/down through Performance rigs, which was small and convenient but too limiting, or a pedalboard with an MFC-101 controller with a couple expression pedals, which provided a lot of flexibility but was also much bigger and heavier and required more cables. Plus programming the MFC was annoying.


    Now with the remote I've got a much smaller/lighter board still with two expression pedals, minimal cables, and seamless integration. I don't have to walk back to the Kemper itself to tune or to check which performance or preset I'm on or to see what presets are in a performance and make sure I'm not lost since everything is displayed on the remote. The only "programming" I have to do is assigning effects toggles, which is quick and easy to do on the remote and even moreso on the Kemper.


    I run through a cab if anyone else in the band is using a cab, otherwise I only run direct. Most people I play with, or most guitarists at least, still use traditional head/cab setups. Running the Kemper through a cab blends much better in those situations, especially for band practices, so I'm extremely glad that I went with the powered version.


    The only thing that really bugs me is not being able to disable "show tuner when volume pedal at 0." It was useful before because I didn't have to waste a button for tuner on/off, but the remote has a dedicated tuner button so it's just a big annoyance. I want to be able to kill my volume and still see all the information on the display without having the tuner pop up and then having to hit the tuner button or a preset button to make it go away. I saw someone in another thread recommend setting the volume pedal range to 4.9 instead of 5.0 to disable it but that doesn't allow the volume pedal to mute the sound completely. It's less noticeable when the volume pedal is post-amp, but it's pretty obvious when it's pre-amp, which is how I like to run it.

    What do you have linked to the Master volume? It only shows readings of 0-10 if you have more than one output linked, but if you have only a single output linked, the Monitor output for instance, then it shows level readings in dB. Since the Monitor output is the only thing I ever find myself needing to adjust on the fly, I only link it to the Master volume. I usually just leave my Main volume around -15dB and if I need to tweak it for whatever reason I'll do that directly in the output menu.


    Also, if you have multiple Master volume links, the output with the highest volume setting determines how loud you can go. If you have Main and Monitor linked to Master, and the Main volume is at -15dB in the output menu and the Monitor volume is all the way down, when you crank the Master volume up to 10 you'll be BLASTING your Main volume but the Monitor volume will only be at -9dB. Sounds like your Main and Monitor might both be linked to your Master. More than one thing was linked, in any case.


    You can save different Output presets just like you can with pretty much anything else. When you're in the Output menu hit the Store button, then hit the first soft button for Output.


    If you get the Master volume link stuff sorted out and still need more volume, there's also the Power Amp Boost function at the end of the Output menu. I normally max that out if I'm gonna be playing with a band.

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    I just picked up the DV Mark cab a few days ago. Haven't had a chance to use it for band practice and REALLY crank it, though I did spend some with it running pretty loud at Guitar Center before I bought it. It's somehow even lighter than my Port City 1x12 OS with a Tonkerlite neo speaker. I love the AMT mini expressions. I have one set for wah with bypass @ heel and the other for volume, works great for both. The Pedaltrain Metro 24 is the PERFECT size for everything too. I kept checking Google almost every day until they were finally available for preorder at Sweetwater so I jumped on it. Really happy with my rig now. Light, compact, versatile, and LOUD.

    I use SPDIF set to Master Stereo and run an instrument cable from the Direct Out to one of the analog inputs on my interface, with the DI set to Git Studio. My interface has direct monitoring via SPDIF so I get a full stereo sound through my monitors whenever I play through the Kemper. For recording I just record one of the mono SPDIF signals (since I never really track with stereo effects) along with the DI for the raw track so I can reamp it later, through the Kemper via SPDIF if I wish.


    If my interface didn't have SPDIF direct monitoring I'd run two cables from the main outputs to the analog inputs on my interface for direct monitoring and set the Mains to Master Stereo, then set SPDIF to Git/Stack or Git/Master Mono if that exists (can't remember) and record both SPDIF inputs so I get the mono Kemper signal and the dry signal.

    Price depends on so many perspectives. It's cheaper than the MFC101, so it's not the most expensive for it's specific market of integrated foot controller for an amp simulation, and more expensive than other third party universal foot controllers. To my knowledge no other foot controller can program multiple effects to be turned on/off at the same time for the Kemper and perhaps we will see more such specific integration in the future.


    It's hard to compare the Remote to the MFC because the MFC is also a standalone MIDI controller, a very powerful and versatile one at that, miles ahead of a GCP for instance. The KPR only works with the Kemper. I still have an MFC leftover from my Axe FX days because if I ever decide to go back to a MIDI rig I'd end up buying another. Also any controller that is capable of sending multiple CC commands with a single button can toggle multiple effects at once in the KPA.


    That said, I'm still getting a Remote for the same reason I got an MFC for the Axe: complete integration, cable consolidation, and ease of programming.