Posts by ucnick

Might want to add this factoid to the wiki... BTW, a voltage gain (or cut) of 6 dB is a factor of two, for those who may wonder....

Thanks CK! I appreciate your time!

Thanks!

Perhaps one of the Kemper engineers can provide the answer?

Thanks Ingolf - will do.

Yeah. The REALLY screwy thing is that it wasn't just about having to update the FW to use RM, but had to do it to get my Powerhead to boot! No FW update, Powerhead no workee!

Last Monday wanted to use Rig Manager and go through my rigs. I started it up and it said there was a new version to download and install, so I did so. Then when I connected it to my Powerhead, which was running last version of 2.3 FW, it would not work said I needed latest version. Didn't want to get into that at the time, so just disconnected and went through them by hand. Didn't think anything of it.

Then, yesterday evening went to rehearsal, set up my rig, started the Kemper, it started to boot then stopped and said it was trying to boot and burn FW from the USB port. Uh oh, what the heck...

Power cycled it, no change, it wanted new FW. So, I used my band-mate's PC to download the 2.4.2 FW and extracted the kaos.bin and put it on a thumbdrive and installed it, took a while, but it worked and I was up and running. At the time was a bit unhappy about the problem, but now am just letting you folks know what happened to me and what to do.

I am now running the beta version and hoping like crazy it doesn't develop some goofy unsolvable bug while on stage.


And, since this occurred, just in case, gotta bring my backup rig (Crate PowerBlock + Zoom GX3 + Fulltone Plimsoul) to rehearsals, too. Once bitten, twice shy. Caveat emptor!

I use the pure booster and Plus DS a lot, they are my two primary amplitude stomps. Was wondering if someone could please define what is the relationship between the pure booster level value setting (0 to 5.0) and actual change in signal level, I would assume in terms of signal gain, either voltage or power. I can't find this info in the manuals. So what is the relationship between a setting level change of 1.0 and the actual signal being processed by the module? Again, I haven't seen anything in the manual that defines this relationship.

For example (this is for example ONLY, I don't know if it is the case, so please don't take it that I am claiming this is the case) every change of 1.0 in the pure booster level setting provides a change of 6 dB of gain (in the case of voltage gain), or 3 dB (in case of power gain).

This is what I am hoping to find.

Thanks.

Yes, thank you, I had indeed noticed it once or twice, and had tried it, however IMHO not as comfortable to use as turning a knob while on stage. Thanks for the suggestion anyway. Since the knob cannot be reassigned, I may end up having to go back to it and try to live with it, or else continue to use several copies of the same profile with different delay times.

I use the analog delay a lot, and all buttons and pedals are already assigned on my FCB1010 so cannot use tap tempo. Anyone know if any way to reassign front panel delay Feedback control to control delay time instead, so can adjust delay time on the fly rather than keeping the effect page open, which is a real pain?

Thanks for the inputs, guys, gave it some thought and decided to go with a JTV59. Seems it'll work fine, I'll find out tomorrow night.

One of my bands is a covers band (mostly 80s) and the JTV59 models sound decent enough for a number of things we do (the 12 string model is for "Listen To Her Heart", I'll use the Ric 360-12 model, also need drop D Tele for "One Headlight", few other things that can use quick changes in models and tunings) and it sounds pretty danged good in mag pup mode also, very similar to my LP Studio, plays like it too. So, I'll use it as a "stunt"/backup guitar and bring whatever else I want to bring (usually a LP or 335 or a Carvin) and a Tele or Strat or clone thereof. That way, I'm covered if pop a string during a tune.But I must say the doubleneck Epi sounds like a good idea, except for the arthritis in my neck/shoulder area. Would look great on stage, though. Hm. Maybe I'll try one out...

FWIW I had a Variax 300 about 10 years ago and it sounded terrible when crunchy or for leads, ditched it, the JTV59 models actually sound pretty danged good, although the mags just feel better, the modeled pups still don't react with an overdriven amp quite like the real thing. Ah well. Also, I use a Pod HD300 for woodshedding, but the Kemper kicks its butt, no comparison!

I would like to find out if anyone has experience with mimicking a 12 string? One of our songs needs a 12 string (according to our bassist), I have been using Vintage Chorus but he deems it unsatisfactory, it looks like the Chromatic Shifter may do part of the job by raising the pitches of the lower four by an octave, but doing the unison with the top two has me stuck. I will try the Chromatic Shifter but would appreciate any useful suggestions. I would really like to avoid having to schlep a 12 string for just the one song. Thanks.

Mr. Fusion?

BTW don't have to use egg crate, flat 3" and 1" would also work...

I have been using the double drum pedal bag solution for my Powerhead toaster, but it doesn't offer much protection, and I have grown a bit unhappy with it for that reason. So, I bought a Barska HD-400 case (found it for about $US60, it is 19" X 14" X about 7 1/4" inside dimensions, just big enough for the toaster on top and bottom with some padding), and removed the foam inside, could have used it but would be a lot of work, simpler to have to cut a hole in only one piece..

I purchased three pieces of 19" X 14" foam at a local foam purveyor, one is 3" thick soft open-cell egg crate, one is 1" thick soft open-cell egg crate, one is 1" thick, flat, soft open-cell. Put the 1" egg crate in the bottom of the case. Used a steak knife to cut an opening for the toaster in the 3" egg crate, put it on top of the 1" piece (which has no hole), put the 1" thick foam in the lid, and voila! A fairly durable, waterproof, shock-protected case for my beloved toaster! It holds the toaster very securely. Also there is enough room left in the case around the toaster for the AC power cord, speaker cable, and a guitar cable, so this idea worked out very well for me! With the lid closed, the toaster is slightly compressed between the top 1" flat foam layer and the bottom 1" egg crate layer, but overall doesn't put too much stress on the bottom row of knobs, which was a concern for me.

Anyway, thought I would share it with you all. I don't seem to be able to upload a photo of the case, but it may be seen on Dropbox at https://www.dropbox.com/s/ia6l5bjerz1xqt5/IMG_5280s.jpg

I initially found it when I played a gig and ran the main out to a K10 and ran the Powerhead imonitor out nto a 2X12 cab. The speaker cab did not break up but the K10 did. Heard the same through the IEMs. Had to turn the KPA volume way down to get rid of it, roughly 50% of max. Anyway it is certainly easy enough to determine! As Chamelious said, it may be a gain staging issue. Good luck!

Pardon my ignorance, was not aware of that model. Thanks for clarifying!

Make certain you're not causing any clipping whatsoever in your signal path. I had the same issue and had to turn down the rig volume a lot to eliminate it. I use a Powerhead and found I like the tones out of a Beyma 12GA50 a lot, so now I usually just mic the cab and feed to my IEMs. Bonus is that the sound coming out of the speaker has a lot less clipping and allows me to crank the rig volume up to where the output LED flashes orange. After all, CK said to judge with our ears, and I love the tones from the speaker!! Rock on!

The DA is the bomb! I've been looking for a good Duane Allman tone to use for my Live At The Fillmore tone in my ABB trib band - it friggin' rocks - gave it 5 stars! What was the original amp, if you don't mind my asking? I know it was a PRS, which one? Thanks!!

Aha. Thanks! I found how to fix it, but am not clear as to why. I tried other rigs in the slot, no problem, they worked, and the rig worked in Browse mode, just not in any slot in Performance mode. So, just for the heck of it, spun the pedal range down to around -3, then back again to -5.0, and it then worked. Perhaps some value in a register was not being correctly read or initialized for some reason. So, that is the workaround.

Thanks again!

I had done a quick parameter check at the time, and I believe it was at -5.0, but I will double-check this evening. It is possible I was looking at another rig at that time. Thanks for the suggestion!

If you don't mind my asking & would please forgive my ignorance: why does the pedal range need to be -5.0 to trigger tuner mode?

Thanks again!