sounds like timeless past... very nice!
I had RigManager first updating profiler too and was wondering about that.
Then, with updated kemper, rm did not find the Profiler. after restarting rm 3 or 4 times, it updated itself to 3.0.126...
Now everything is working fine.
I have some cheapo guitars and I´ve changed everything (from tuners to pickups) except the wooden parts, and it`s not "rocket science".
But I would not advice to "learn" the soldering part on a more pricey guitar. You should know what you do, to not be hopping mad at least.
You should keep in mind, there are often very tight (narrow?) spaces to do so.
If you do not know what pickups, you should maybe send it back, for not to be pressed for time and spend some time in a guitar shop for testing Guitars/pickups you like (and also spend some time with soldering, if never done before),
You can buy it again, when you have the right ones in mind!?
This is just MY thoughts depending on my experiences, I would do it this way.
If you can use cc´s instead of pc´s, you can send cc47 with value 69 (Performance 70), followed by cc50 (slot 1) - cc54 (slot 5)(value 1 or higher)
I used this feature with the Boss SY 300. You could dial in a high and low filter to manipulate a specific range of notes, would be cool if KPA could do this (maybe those filters for the FX slots itself, you could use the existing harmonizer and manipulate the uneffected strings also with any FX you like. Or range of...)
Are the profiles named .kipr or .krig?
The reason I ask is, with FW 7.xxx the name has changed and if you have FW above 7.xxx on KPA and a older version of RigManager for keeping your Rigs It may cause problems (this is only an idea, I am not sure...).
I don`t think you can use KPA USB for Midi... The Interface will be the only solution.
I don`t have a XT1, but if I had one, I would use Kemper Midi out into SM1 Midi In and would let the slots do the switching...
Okay, I did change the string gauge and the A, G and B string produced a little buzzing, so I did the little neck setup like mtmartin71 descriped, and the buzzing disappeared... (on the A string it remains first, but I tried it the next day and it already was gone).
The only thing now, is the strings on the bridge end seem (feel) a little higher now (I expected the opposite), but I will work on this the next day.
Now I have a wonderful new guitar, that fits to my fingers
Thank you all for encourage me doing this... (I really love this community!)
But that would confuse my Bass playing(Bass also half step down would need a BIGGER gauge, or a setup)
Yes, and I did that with my old cheap guitars and was satisfied with what I had, but this new guitar shows me what is, how it should be, so I will try the 9s on my new and practice setup on my oldies, maybe I can do it better.
I love it, but my finger suffer and tell me to get another gauge.
If i got Your right, I think this just depends on how much strong you Hit strigns when tuning..
try to hit them softer and it will not happen (with your fingers or useing a lighter pick)
I use 1,14 picks and if I don't use it softly it happens on every guitar, from the cheapest Chibson to the Most expensive Custom Shop. No matter about string Gauge or General Set up or Diapason lenght.
If you hit strings too hard the first vibration generates a higer pitch.. then it naturally low down by itself.
Congrat for You new giutar!
Yes, I know that and what I was trying to descripe, is this little (tiny) over and then in to the tune of the string, that is the only move of the bubble, while I always had a need to estimate the real position of the bubble with my old guitars (okay, this sounds a lot more dramatic then it is)
I´ve always thought this is the normally behavior of the bubble and was so much impressed with this new FGN, that I just could not believe it and firstly plugged my old guitars in, to prove if the Kemper tuner has changed with a firmware update
Hey thank you for your fast answer.
You misunderstood my description for the tuning, I never had such a wonderful experience before this guitar(it seems my english is much worse than I thought).
I`ve changed from 10 to 09 on my other guitars as well, without a doubt at all. But while tuning those, the bubble is constantly running up and down in a specific "scale", while with the FGN it is a "steady moving of the bubble without this "permanent seesaw"(I never knew that tuning a guitar could be so easy) and I refer this to the setup.
I also tried to improve my other guitars over the years, but I feel my skills very limited. I was quite satisfied with my "oldies" BEFORE I bought this new one, and now I fear to downgrade this guitar by just changing the string gauge.
I appreciate your help very much if there is no risk to harm the saddle notches, I will just try it.
I need some advice from some more skilled guitarists related to my new guitar.
I´m playing guitar for many years now, but always used very cheap guitars (Squier Strat and Harley Benton LP). Now I´ve bought a (for my circumstances) more expensive guitar,
it`s a FGN JIL-ASH-M and I am more than overwhelmed from this guitar.
This simply starts by the tuning experience, where the Tuner bubble got a very short spike upturned and then swings in a position and stays.
My cheapies got permanent seesaw changes of the tuner bubble, and I think it is the overall setup of the strings and specially the octave purity (or am I wrong?).
That leads me to my question, and the only downside of my new guitar: it came with a 010 - 046 string setup, that has a lot more tension on this guitar as on my LP and stratocaster (which is related to the shorter scale (LP) and the vibrato (strat), so I want to change to a 009 string set, but I fear to loose that perfect guitar setup (no money left for a Luthier).
Usually I would just try it, but I´ve read a change of the string strength could damage the saddle notches, what makes sense for me when changing to a bigger string gauge, but otherwise?
And another string gauge could cause a new setup of octave purity, or not?
I hope you understand my little skilled english and also my shakiness...
Regarding to the tap button led, I assume a Kemper metronome is not a good idea...
That would be very welcome.
I realy like the big cents display, but I find it sometimes a little confusing, since it shows a - sign on both sides from center, unlike the little cents display beneath the bubble shows a + and a - dependend on which direction to tune...