Posts by slateboy

    I think the op wants additional fx besides the 4+4 fx buttons we already have. Correct?

    A small workaround could (possibly) be to employ fx that have multiple processing, ie the rev and delays have a modulation/chorus effect. With a bit of tinkering (morphing) you could get these to act as either or both effect. Limited, I appreciate, but saves employing extra hardware.

    Lemaitre i see your point and appreciate your situation.

    If the kemper can do what you seek then, as it is, may require you to manually (by hand) select a new output configuration. Failing that, a cheap and easy alternative would be to have an A/B switching box on your output. Perhaps if you used a midi- controllable A/B box you could do everything with your foot- controller?

    If your mixing desk is digital you could also automate muting the appropriate channels.

    Maybe none of this is the ideal solution but just sharing some ideas.

    is it not possible to use the same output(s) for all set ups but “tailor” the presets to deliver the sound required?

    Or is the desk processing the two signals completely differently/ separately and in a way that the Kpa can not do?

    How are you monitoring these “two” sources?

    Certainly if the facilities and the time is available a more complex setup could be possible but I’d be mindful where quick change overs and simplicity may take precedence.

    The Kemper Drive, Fuzz, etc, have specific parameters set to give them an authentic sound of what the presets are modeling. If you changed a parameter, it would no longer sound like the preset. I assume this is why you don't adjust unless I am missing something here.

    that could be one answer but i think unlikely otherwise for the reverb fx you’d expect the level or mix to be present. Besides, if the “drive” value is there for the green scream why not for the Kemper drive or fuzz?

    I noticed today, certain features are no longer available in the "newer" effects. It's a feature i've never used and only just discovered (so makes no difference to me, personally)

    When selecting the "stomps" group, various parameters are available to tweak, as shown in the images. Seems newer effects do not offer this.

    Anyone else noticed it? Guessing the feature is being depreciated.

    was thinking, a valid counter-argument (that I’d expect to receive from Kemper and some users) is that a “traditional amp” has a crude gauge with marks from 1-10 where we rely on our ears more than our eyes. I agree (to a point) but then, as mentioned in the earlier thread, why give us 0.1 steps on visual-scale if we can’t access these steps? How about a visual representation of typical knob like the led collar on the encoders as an approximate indicator?

    again, I’m not complaining (oh yes you are i hear you say) just commenting on something that may lead to more frustration than it does productivity if you’re so inclined to seek precision or accuracy in a quest to instil the confidence needed for performing, which is the ultimate achievement i think we all desire.

    Next subject- the psychology of performing. Who wants to start that one….?=O

    appreciate the comments, guys.

    Im aware that very few of us can tell the difference between 2990Hz and 3010Hz so why offer such small and in-perceivable increments? Would it not be better to work in larger, more “manageable” steps of say 10Hz increments rather than 0.1Hz that has no real-life practical application? The ability to have such fine resolution is a credit to the designers but why have such a fine scale if it’s inaccessible?

    to be fair, i’ve had my kpa many years now and being a plug-n-play user this is only an annoyance when i plunge into an editing session.

    I’m sure this discussion had been covered before…

    I often find it nigh on impossible to get an exact value on certain parameter settings. Possibly a regular annoyance if you have a touch of the OCD.

    Does anyone know how to get precise control of Kpa parameters with fine value-adjustment, such as cut-off frequency, etc?

    I find that using the encoder knobs, the smallest tweak is never small enough to +/- the steps i aim for on the display.

    I challenge anyone to be able to set something like the a chosen frequency to, let’s say, exactly 3000Hz. Best i can get on a good shot is 3001.4 or 2999.7 ( you get the idea)

    Maybe there’s a button to press and hold for ultra fine precision? I don’t know of one (talking kpa here, not rig manager).

    I sometimes find, too, that the encoder knobs lags on their first adjustment as of the kpa is waiting for input to focus and await the new value input.

    any tips to share on this?

    OS 3.3 ??????? isn't that like necroing? LOL. I swap my pedal inputs all the time and no problems on calibration.

    “necroing” my favourite word of the week (even though my spell checker didn’t like it!)

    like i said, the fact the video uses an older os may automatically portray this quirk is invalid but there will be parts of the os that haven’t changed since then. Equally, this doesn’t necessarily mean everyone will experience or discover this is the case for them. Just trying to help out the original post to eliminate all possibilities.

    i have (in the past) found the continually-active auto-calibrate function can be a pest if you have hardware which “tricks” the kpa into “thinking” a greater min/max is available than intended. Here’s an example showing what i mean here.

    A valid argument against what is demonstrated here is that this was os v3 (though i understand it is applicable to the current os) and that i should be using quality/approved hardware/expression pedal. I nowadays use a boss exp pedal which i like to calibrate every time i use it once it’s plugged in. plugging it in after the kpa & remote is booted up can upset things is not my recommended procedure of events. Hopefully someone will tell me the current os treats exp-pedals differently.

    I find the LCD screen readable if the leds are not clear. Some indication of what performance slot is active if the display is setup in that mode. We also have auto-daylight-tinting in the uk so less of a problem. Also know as miserable weather and lack of sunshine! Greater request for waterproofing the pedal than sunshine.

    But seriously, as we’re on the subject, what’s your solution for wet conditions?

    But “power hungry remote” does not apply. It works perfectly with another kemper.
    and “slightly weaker kpa” neither, as it works perfect with another remote.

    That’s the thing: only my remote + my kpa is resulting in weak led lights on the remote.

    What i was getting at is the possibility of a combination of a “hungry remote” + “weaker kpa” = your setup?

    Can you confirm which is the newest/oldest kpa and remote hardware out of all those you tried?

    could be that your remote draws a bit more current (for whatever reason) plus maybe your kpa is unable deliver as much current as your band-mates. The combination of a “hungry” remote and slightly “weaker” kpa is the cause?

    How about if the “bright” remote is a newer version with more efficient components and the “good” Kpa is a newer version able to deliver more than adequate power?

    The original kpa was available way before the remote existed though they must have had the remote concept in mind as they added the Ethernet socket. However by the time the remote was produced perhaps the design changed from the original plans? Just speculation here, of course.

    I have often wondered why they didn’t build the kpa with a better in-built “PoE” system built in. it would certainly avoid the issues many of us have with selecting the correct type/length of cable. Again maybe an oversight on the original design?

    Another thing i encounter is that the first sound you play through your Kpa (especially in those quick turn arounds between multi-band events) the foh engineer applies their “default” EQ , whether that’s their desk- recall settings manually or what they perceive as a “neutral/flat” sound. As we know, our preferred rigs have an eq curve of their own, which is often noticeable when changing between rigs when the audible difference becomes noticeable. Similar to “us” at home/studio, depending what you hear before or after the current sound influences how you perceive the current sound, until your ears become accustomed to the changes. The same way in which how you perceive a flavour with your mouth depends what you have recently eaten . (Extreme example- eat an orange after brushing your teeth )

    What I’m getting at is the foh engineer will eq your sound to their tastes. I request that they leave the eq flat, if i can- but sometimes the closest you get to them is 50 metres away. Your closest allies are on stage in the form of the monitor engineer or the stage hand that keeps them awake.

    Ultimately, they will do as they please with you and your bands sound. I don’t worry, so long as i can hear what i want to hear to give me the confidence i need to perform, which leads on to another important (my most valuable) tip- control your own monitor wherever possible!

    Every sound man I've worked with always mentions that the signal is very hot. I've got the main output down to - 30dbs. And sometimes they're not easy to deal with when you're trying to tell them to keep my signal direct without any preamps or other.

    i’ve found this too. Weirdly, i had one engineer say lower the output so he could drive the head-amp (input gain) on the desk instead. Seemed a bit counter intuitive to me but best keep him happy. Think I’m running-15dB as my output level.

    something i always request is to ensure that phantom power is turned off. Well prepared sound engineers will likely have active DI boxes on standby which they may remove and stick those XLR straight into your rig.

    Were told The Kpa can tolerate phantom power but recommended to switch off if possible. Belt and braces, you could take your own isolation method or perhaps a phantom-power tester so you can at least check.

    The sound engineer may have have their own idea on how to deal with a stereo feed, be that use one side only, pan both centre or do a proper stereo mix.