Posts by mwinter77

    I have a SD JB which is somewhat comparable output-wise, I guess, and I use it with both Clean Sense and Distortion Sense at '0'.

    I have SD's from the '97 era in an Ace LP I also had to lower clean sense to -5 to keep the input led from turning red and the input A/D from clipping on my most aggressive playing.

    I tried it today on several browsers. His host must have fixed it.

    It's still giving me a phishing warning from Malwarebytes and blocks his site. I not going to use the site until this stops happening since it didn't used to do this which means that something is clearly not 100% right there. I PM'd Mike earlier about this issue BTW.

    I would leave it on. The energy use is minimal.

    The failure mode of electronics in general is such that on/off cycles are by far the most likely times for a failure to occur. When electronic components are moving through power-on and power-off states they are at their most vulnerable. In most cases the MTBF of an electronic component under constant power is probably 10x that of one under intermittent power.

    Most any switch should work the really important thing to pay attention to is that the switch will pass the PoE (Power over Ethernet) through without issue. Based on the Kemper Support #1 reply I have to assume that the power supply side can handle the requirements of two remotes.

    So I received the roller knob I mentioned in the beginning of this item - it works perfectly - great way to control my monitor volume on stage.

    Highly recommended.

    I got mine too. Love it, really nice 3rd controller in addition to my 2 pedals.

    Ok, I have to ask where did you get those really cool big button covers for your foot controller switches? I have such a time hitting those small switches accurately.

    An expression pedal that uses a single TRS cable is not a stereo expression pedal. But, yes, it is the kind of pedal you people use with the KPA.

    Yes, however that is the exact terminology (stereo expression) they use to denote the TRS style on the web page for the item the OP referenced.

    Funny thing, I ordered one of these after reading this thread as I think it looks like a pretty cool item actually. I currently have 2 DVP-3's for vol and wah/pitch and am going to try and add this to take the pitch duties away from my wah pedal.

    I have been doing some research to better understand the role that power tube type and saturation plays in our profiling process and why some profiles work better than others for me in various situations.

    I found this discussion on power tube type and properties and the inherent relationship to the potential sound and feel of the amplifier. Perhaps this is old news to many but thought it interesting to keep in mind as we pick amps and power tube types and at what levels of power stage drive we profile an amp.…r-amps-power-section.html

    Actually clean sense *should* be set ideally by eyeing the input level LED and not by ear. The clean sense function is there primarily to adjust the level of different pickups so that the input A/D converter is neither overloaded nor hit too softly. I set all my guitars so that the input LED barely flashes into the orange (never into red) on the hardest (loudest) playing. Then after that adjust distoration sense to balance the clean and distortion realative levels.

    That is a good idea on the demo video. I will try to do that. The only potential issue is on the song specific ones. They will get flagged for copyright infringement if I play the songs that I programmed the tones for. I’ll see what I can do though when I get back home. Thanks!

    Should be able to present those specific songs in transposed key, or in a "style of" type of presentation without infringing I believe.

    Might be worth loading the amp with 2 cabs in parallel or series, mic one and muffle the other. Should result in a 3dB drop, theoretically.

    If you do it in series (as opposed to parallel) then the resistance load should be double (two 8 ohm loads in series yield 16 ohms) and the resultant power/volume should be half. If you do it in parallel it would be half the resistance and twice the power/volume. The changes with load can affect the tone somewhat but whatever.

    Same. I have a rather expensive Shure GLXD guitar wireless unit that sits unused in a drawer as it proved too unreliable infront of an audience. The cheaper Line 6 G50 i got to replace it has been flawless.

    Interesting as I had 100% the exact opposite experience! Go figure!

    I have not examined all the most recent gadgets in detail so my recommendations are general. First you need to check what frequency-ranges you are permitted to use in your country/area, and if a license is required to operate radio gear other than the most common consumer gear. Next I would look for a kit that offer a digital link. Digital adds a little latency, but it is unnoticeable with the most recent circuit designs. Digital also has the benefit of improves scrambling (over analog) and even digital signatures in case you are concerned about security (someone/something messing with your performance). Shure ULX-series are units that meet these requirements, but I haven't had the opportunity to test any of them yet.
    As a G90 user I have no problem recommending that if you and everyone else nearby can live with its limitations in terms of 2.4G interference. I've seen 2nd-hand units being sold for very reasonable prices.

    I have extensively used both the line 6 and Shure digital wireless products and can say emphatically that the Shure system plays much nicer with nearby 2.4Ghz radios like WiFi, in fact since switching to the Shure I have had 0 interference issues and I had many in both directions with the Line 6 radio.

    I have to return G10, because I found a problem with my homewifi.

    That is the exact issue that drove me to the Shure system I mentioned previously - WiFi at venues and such were becoming a frequent issue. Have had no such issues with over a year of use with the Shure system,