Posts by Nucleardelusion

there was an interesting documentary made in 2005 that got into the territory of trying to categorize heavy metal. It's a pretty good show to watch. The author created an elaborate "family tree" in which he defines more than 20 distinct genre. It is also a function of time, some of the categories only existed for a certain period of years (for example,

• Early Metal (1966–1971)

Cream; Jimi Hendrix; Blue Cheer; Deep Purple; Led Zeppelin; MC5; Mountain; The Stooges; Black Sabbath

Wikipedia link given below.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/…_A_Headbanger%27s_Journey

Check out the MeloAudio Midi Commander. I don't have one myself, but the idea appeals to me . It is smaller and simpler than some of the others (quite inexpensive too). I understand that it comes preprogrammed for Kemper so it is supposed to work right out of the box with minimal set-up time. I believe this comes with some limitations on functionality, so may or may not meet you needs. It does not have an expression pedal, but does have a jack so you can use your own. This is an advantage for some folks who have a particular expression pedal they like, rather than being stuck with what is built into the for controller.

Paul

I owned a JCM800 (100w) in the eighties. I recall that once during a rehearsal my bandmates and I decided to crank it. We set all knobs to 10 (ala Van Halen), and I tell you, the buzz even with guitar volume off was intimidating. I summoned the nerve to strike an A chord and it was like that scene in the movie back to the future. Unfortunately, when we all regained consciousness no one could remember how it sounded

I'm a builder as well as a player, and even though neck binding adds more work to the build, I definitely like it as a player. Mainly because it eliminates the ends of the frets from the sides of the fretboard. I like this both visually and for feel, sometimes the ends of the frets can feel a little rough or pokey.

I'm referring to real wood binding and I understand some folks not liking the look. Builders usually go for different species of wood that really draw attention to the binding as it is commonly a contrasting colour to the fretboard. However, it does not have to be like this. I currently have a build underway that has a maple neck, maple fretboard and maple binding. Cosmetically, The binding is almost unnoticeable but you get the benefit of having no fret ends, in my view it looks way cleaner. It also adds another subtle layer of craftsmanship

Paul

Great work and thanks for posting pictures

I have a silly question, but I just haven't been able to confirm the answer. ICE power modules don't seem to have a volume control built into them. In your cabinet, does the amp basically run flat out with the effective volume controlled by the Kemper output volume?

Thanks,

Paul

There isn't a single recommended level. Noise induced hearing loss is a result of the combination of sound level and exposure time. The higher the volume, the shorter the time to cause damage. I don't remember the relationships off hand, but there is lots of information if you Google. You will find tables that tell you recommended exposure time for different sound levels. This is well studied in the field of occupational health

Hearing loss is also cumulative, by the time you realize you have it, it is too late to do anything about the damage you have sustained. All you can do is lower your exposure and take better care of you ears to reduce the amount of additional damage. The hearing you have today is the best it will ever be, sadly, it only gets worse as you age.

Hi all,

I stumbled across these little desktop power amps, which seem to be designed for driving passive monitors or other speakers, and targeted at the audiophile market (hence the RCA jacks). They are not specifically guitar power amps. However, the specs look like they would work just fine, they are solid state, class D amplifiers with power ranging from 50 up to 160 watts per side, and can drive speakers ranging from 2 ohms to 8 ohms. They are very small and extremely inexpensive ($60 Canadian on Amazon). Company name is Fosi Audio, here is the Amazon link.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/…?smid=ATV3LXZ3ZXOW8&psc=1

Is there any reason why this would not work to drive a Kone from an unpowered toaster? Any issues using RCA to TRS adapters on the cables?

Thanks everyone,

Paul

As a Canadian, we have lost a national treasure.

Although I am a guitarist, I found Neal's live drum solos to be musical, mesmerizing and awe inspiring. I can only imagine how incredible he was from a drummer's perspective.

RIP Neal, thank you for the amazing gift of music and words.

If you are DIY inclined, You could go to your local hardware store and look for wooden knobs for drawer pulls. There is a multitude of sizes and shapes, very inexpensive (maybe a dollar each). You would have to drill the backside to fit over your switch, but that is pretty easy, as switches are standard diameters. You wouldn't have the little set screw to lock it down, but a press fit would probably be ok. You could wrap the switch with tape to make the fit tighter, or use a dab of something non-permanent like hot glue. Might be worth a bit of experimenting to see if you can make it work.

Paul

Eruption.

I have tried this, works fine and goes pretty loud - you just connect the Kemper to the aux input same as you would for an ipod.

The problem I found is that the THR significantly colors the signal coming in through the aux input. I first noticed this when I used it as a boom box for my ipod. Music just does not sound the same, I am not one of those audiophile guys that can describe it, but it seems like the vocals tend to disappear in the mix. Songs I've listened to hundreds of times sound different. I tried to get info on the net quantifying the frequency response of the THR, but was never able to find anything. Don't get me wrong, the THR is a neat device and fun to play through, but definitely not a good FRFR solution. It is also weak on the low end because the speakers are just so small.

one more thing, my dad is in his mid-seventies and his hearing is really poor. He has digital hearing aids (technology has really advanced in the last decade). They use the same type of approach, the audiologist custom programs the hearing aid to boost the frequencies that the user needs help with. Mush like a visual prescription, the resulting hearing aid is uniquely tuned for the user. My dad's left & right ears are very different from each other, so they obviously calibrate each hearing aid individually.

He always jokes to the audiologist that he is going to bring a recording of my mom speaking, so that those frequencies can be zeroed out.

This sure sounds like a useful gadget - well done to the inventors.

paul

• I agree with Ingolf about the y-axis amplitude being potentially way off. I imagine the system makes an estimate at how much correction to provide based on the way the user responds to test signals. I wonder if the system were to run through the process a second or even third time (much like the refining process during profiling) if this could go a long way toward identifying user sensitivity and headphone or speaker input. If the system applied the predicted corrections to the test tones and then the user did the test again, the system should be able to determine how much additional correction would be required.

Hello everyone,

I am a pretty new owner of a Kemper and only play for my own enjoyment at home. I was planning on buying something like a yamaha HS8 for my FRFR solution or a dx10 at most. However, I have an opportunity to buy a lightly used yamaha dxr15 for the same price as a new HS8 monitor (and significantly less than a new dxr10). My location does not have much secondary market, so it is unlikely i would find a used hs8 or dxr10 (i have been monitoring the classifieds).

So my question is regarding the use of a dxr15 at "bedroom" volume levels. Is it going to sound ok, or does it really need to be significantly louder to sound decent? I am wondering if despite the good deal, it may be a poor choice for me?

thanks in advance,

Paul

Hi Everyone,

I am wondering about how the licensing or ownership works for commercial profiles that have been purchased by a user, and then included with the profiler when it is sold second hand. Is this "legal" ?

Does the new owner of the profiler legitimately own these commercial profiles?

Does it make a difference if the seller does not replace their profiler (ie, switched to tube amps or Axe, for example), as opposed to someone who, for example sells a toaster to buy a rack model (or sells unpowered to buy powered), and will continue to use the profiles on a new machine?

The prospect of buying a second hand profiler that is loaded up with lots of commercial profiles is certainly attractive, but I respect the work these people do, and feel that they should be properly compensated. It is also in the best interests of the Kemper community that these talented people are able to make a fair profit and hopefully choose to continue to provide us all with their great products.

I am certainly not endorsing any kind of "piracy" just hoping to understand how things work, and wondering if there is ever a case where a used profiler (with commercial profiles) can be purchased in a fair and ethical way.

Thanks,

Paul

By the way - this is one of the best forums I have ever seen, the community shows exceptional helpfullness and respect to one another - an exceptional group of individuals