Posts by ElDoca

    Hi Jenfi,

    i have my 4x12 DIY Kemper Kone "bigbeast" from a MDF case. Due to the fact that the kone is a speaker simulation and not a "cab simulation", the best way is to have a stiffer/heavier box setup. Go for a stiff MDF case, if you want to build your own DIY-case., you will avoid/mild the possible resonance "colour" of the structure itself

    Ply is stiffer than MDF. I've said my peace on the MDF vs ply debate in this thread so I won't rehash it. But if you must use MDF for the cab, at the very least, use a quality ply for the baffle.

    Is there any progress from Kemper to improve the sound when using high gain with imprints w/Kone?

    We all know that high gain (e.g. ENGL, JCM800 Cranked etc) sounds great in Kone 'FRFR' mode, but with Imprints the sound is usually muffled / blanket over speaker.

    Imprints with lower gain is flawless and awesome.

    Kab needs improving, not the Kone. Try a cab with all birch construction, about 12" deep and if you insist on a 1x12, it should be ported. Since the Kones are replicating a real speaker (not mic'd), internal volume is important and you will get better chugga chugga results in a 2x12 or more...just like you would with real guitar speakers

    I'm new to the whole FRFR / Kone universe and I wonder if those speakers also need 'wood' to enhance their full potential in sound just like regular speaker?

    If not, then a lighter cab in weight could be a win-win situation. I have found the Marshall Code 212 vertical Cab as an interesting starting point: relatively light, almost the same price as an empty cab and a nice look too ...

    Those go back and forth between MDF to ply, website specs say 45lbs so I'm going to guess this year it's MDF. TRM Cabs makes a pine 2x12 that comes in at 25lbs. But, judging by your screen name, I'm going to predict you will be very disappointed with the chugga chugga if you choose anything other than all birch ply with a reinforced baffle.

    Most of the bass amps that utilize IcePower modules have fans. CK insists that their 250asx2 has been beaten on for hours at 4ohms with no fan and no thermal shutdowns. But, the PowerHead is vented so take that info however you want to.

    Honestly, the IcePower modules are so small, it could fit into an enclosure and still tuck into the back of a KPA head for a clean install. Or, better yet, mount it like the Ritter amps. I really see no benefit to install it inside a cab/kab, why limit yourself?

    Yeah, I always set the PS2 to flat no matter what. Sometimes it's tempting to "fix" a profile by adjusting the switches on the PS2, but it's better in the long run to simply abandon the profile if you can't dial it in on the Kemper. Save the PS2 controls for dialing in the room, for me that's a lot easier than using the global outputs. Don't forget that to achieve a flat response, the PS2 dials should be turned all the way to the left, NOT be at noon.

    Imprints work on all profiles. People get way to preoccupied with studio/direct/merged. There is no rule on what sounds best, trust your ears. I also want to point out that as much as I am enjoying the Kones, I haven't sold off my real speakers yet. CK is so so so close, but when it's just me in a room, real speakers are much sweeter

    I was very happy with a Power Station + two Kones in my Port City 2x12. With the V30 imprints I think it could go head-to-head with a 2x12 Rectifier cab. But, I wanted more versatility so I put one Kone in a Port City 1x12 and the other in an open back tweed cab. I find myself, more often than not, running both cabs at the same time.

    And, for the record, I've bought and sold every solid state amp currently available and stopped my search when I finally tried the PS-2. I seriously doubt your "thin" problem is because of the Fryette. Profiles are all hit or miss, and when you change something in your signal speakers, cab or power's like you're starting from scratch so you have to put in the time to dial it in. I have specific profiles I use with FRFR, Kones & real cab/speakers

    Yeah I'm just telling the OP my experience. Kabinet was no good for me. Putting a Kone in a Mesa idea, didn't try it and don't think I will. My point was that the default v30 imprint using the Kabinet wasn't good at all and using a real Mesa v30 was far superior sounding. That's what he asked about...

    Yup, we're on the same page. But, there is so much talk about the Kabinet being terrible for high-gain, I'm trying to fight the good fight and say it's because of the Kab, not the Kone. I sold off all my Mesa cabs for Port City so I can't do it, but I really hope we'll get a Kone demo in a Mesa cab soon. And, hopefully, we'll eventually get multiple variations of the V30 imprints available (Mesa, England, China, Orange, etc)

    No. I hated it. It’s not like a real Mesa UK made v30. It’s more like an orange v30. I returned my Kabinet and stuck with a Mesa recto 2x12.

    Comparing a Rectifier to a Kabinet is very unfair to the Kone technology. Mesa cabs are the best in the business. I have a Port City 1x12 and the Kone V30 imprint sounds great in it. Very tight, lots of chugga chugga. I have no doubt two Kones in a 2x12 Recto would sound similarly fantastic. But, if you're only going to use the V30 imprint, it's a one trick pony so why bother?

    I do not have a Kabinet so I can't compare, but it was a big "hell no" from me when they released the specs of it. Cab construction matters

    Buy a PowerHead and a Kone. Have a 100% birch ply cab built with a 3-piece removable back. Close up the cab for your high-gain pleasure, open up the back for clean and edge of breakup bliss. More than enough for home, rehearsal and stage

    I have three kids as well. When it's quiet time, I play through a pair of studio monitors. This should satisfy the stereo itch for playing with all those fancy effects that are fun to goof around with but have zero practicality in a band situation. For those of us that grew up with the, often said, "amp in the room" sound, I think stereo takes away too much of that feel. Part of the" amp in the room" sound are the residual overtones bouncing off the walls. If you have an open back cab, much of that sound comes from the rear. Ever notice how you can move your Fender Princeton around the room to make it sound different? Now imagine throwing in another cab, you're blasted with one tone from all sides and not getting any of the residual effects. To me, adding an extra cab for stereo makes everything feel stale like a bad 80s movie guitar track. But, that's just me

    A point to note is that the Fryette has a depth and presence control, as well as a toggle switch with three settings for the low and high end. I had everything set flat in the video, but I'm pretty sure you can dial it in to be pretty close to 1:1 versus the Kemper power amp.

    This is directly from Fryette...

    "The most neutral setting - the setting where the Power Station contributes the least color and reactivity - is with switches set to Flat and Presence/Depth full CCW (counter clockwise)"

    MiniDSP makes an IcePower plate amplifier that you could just swap out the jack plate, enlarge the hole a bit too. It's pretty pricey, but you can keep an eye out on eBay for the older, cheaper version.

    Cab type & construction matters. I'm a high-gain player and the V30 imprint sounds astonishingly accurate in my Port City 2x12. The V30 will sound shrill or ice-picky in the average, typical cabinet. The fact that no one seems to like that imprint in the Kabinet shows you just how accurate it is.

    Well, that's actually a rear shot of the PS-100, not the PS-2. The layout is basically the same except the PS-2 has an additional output for parallel out. So, if it's still not working, double check you have the correct output on the Fryette and check the output section of the KPA. It's very easy to mess up an input/output setting, 90% of the time when I get a frantic call about no sound, it's an output setting.

    I can also confirm the PS-2 works flawlessly with 2 Kones @ 2ohms