I'm using ownhammer IRs. They sound massive. Maybe too good sometimes
My go-to IR is a from a Marshall 4x12 with V30s as I'm using the a Marshall 4x12 with V30s in real life.
Ownhammer is my favorite but I always have to level their files as they run way too hot. Very difficult to run side by side test because Ownhammer IRs are so much louder and our ears perceive louder as better
For live, it's a real speaker & cab all the time every time.
You won't be able to run through the mixer with the unpowered Kabinet. The powered output of the Kemper would damage the mixer or vice versa.
I think this comment is confusing people. Yes, you can run to the mixer through the main outs and still have the powered out go to the Kabinet.
I urge everyone to try the Kone with a quality "real" guitar cabinet. It's sooooo much better, especially at stage volume
Thanks ! I am really not sure which monitors should i buy, i know Adam audio have good reputation and A4V model looks good for my need, but maybe should i consider the budget Monitors (Yamaha HS 5)? because my room has no acoustic treatment
Look for a used, well taken care of, pair of MSP5s, they are build like tanks and will last decades. I prefer them over the HS5s
Better is subjective. Besides, I don't know why anyone would limit themselves to just one option. I have FRFR speakers, Kone in a cab and "real" cabs. If it's a paid gig, I keep it simple and bring the FRFR. If I'm practicing at home, I mostly use the Kone. If it's jamming with friends, real cab.
If it's a steady hum, it's probably a ground loop. If it sequels at volume, signal loop. I use the Pyle PHE300 for either. Use it on both the in/out on one of the components. I assume you already tried the ground lift switch on the KPA?
Speaker Out (red) -> Passive Cab
99.999% of audience members won't know and don't care. It's all about what the player likes and that's even more important. The same as I don't know what kind of cooking pans a chef uses but that chef certainly cares and it's important to them
I believe the TC Electronics Bam200 should get an honourable mention. It is a bass amp that can be set nearly flat response. I believe the big guy himself (correct me if I’m wrong) actually recommended for the unpowered Kemper kab prior to the powered kab release for users who had an unpowered Kemper.
For the price of that amp, you can just buy the Icepower amp (50asx2) module, wiring kit and case and have truly flat response.
I think a mistake a lot of players make is forcing their previous favorite profiles to work with the Kone. I wiped my Kemper clean when my Kone arrived and started from scratch. Some of my favorites worked, others didn't. But, I didn't waste my time trying to force it. If a profile wasn't even close to what I wanted, I pressed the delete button and moved onto the next. Once I found a few that were close to what I was looking for, THEN I'd deep dive into the settings.
Can't wait, ckemper, for new speaker imprints. I especially like the P10r and am hoping for more vintage offerings
can't go wrong with Ownhammer IR's, best I've heard. Celestion's are ok but not as good as the same speakers from Ownhammer imo
Ownhammer's are way too hot. When you A/B them with other IRs, everyone always thinks the louder one is better which isn't always the case. I do like them, but I level them out before I import them into my Kemper
I played around with this concept today and it actually worked very well.
Tube Amp -> Fryette PS-1 -> PS-1 fx out -> KPA -> PS-1 fx in -> Kab/Kone
The iPad isn't doing any processing, it's just a controller so you don't need the latest and greatest. Apple's dirty secret is they slow down the processor when the battery wears out so that's why people think older iPads are slow and less responsive. Buy an older one, have the battery replaced and you just saved $200. The Kemper app requires IOS version 13 or later which means it's compatible with any ipad as far back as 2014
Ugh, still MDF then...no chugga chugga for you
Hi Jenfi,
i have my 4x12 DIY Kemper Kone "bigbeast" from a MDF case. Due to the fact that the kone is a speaker simulation and not a "cab simulation", the best way is to have a stiffer/heavier box setup. Go for a stiff MDF case, if you want to build your own DIY-case., you will avoid/mild the possible resonance "colour" of the structure itself
Ply is stiffer than MDF. I've said my peace on the MDF vs ply debate in this thread so I won't rehash it. But if you must use MDF for the cab, at the very least, use a quality ply for the baffle.
Is there any progress from Kemper to improve the sound when using high gain with imprints w/Kone?
We all know that high gain (e.g. ENGL, JCM800 Cranked etc) sounds great in Kone 'FRFR' mode, but with Imprints the sound is usually muffled / blanket over speaker.
Imprints with lower gain is flawless and awesome.
Kab needs improving, not the Kone. Try a cab with all birch construction, about 12" deep and if you insist on a 1x12, it should be ported. Since the Kones are replicating a real speaker (not mic'd), internal volume is important and you will get better chugga chugga results in a 2x12 or more...just like you would with real guitar speakers
Players using a real cab or the kab/kone tend to prefer direct or merged profiles. But, don't go out and buy a bunch of profiles just because that's the type of profile you're "supposed" to use. Trust your ears
I'm new to the whole FRFR / Kone universe and I wonder if those speakers also need 'wood' to enhance their full potential in sound just like regular speaker?
If not, then a lighter cab in weight could be a win-win situation. I have found the Marshall Code 212 vertical Cab as an interesting starting point: relatively light, almost the same price as an empty cab and a nice look too ...
Those go back and forth between MDF to ply, website specs say 45lbs so I'm going to guess this year it's MDF. TRM Cabs makes a pine 2x12 that comes in at 25lbs. But, judging by your screen name, I'm going to predict you will be very disappointed with the chugga chugga if you choose anything other than all birch ply with a reinforced baffle.
Fantastic amp, I'm sure you and your neighbors will love it
Had PS-2, compared it to TC Electronic BAM200 - couldn't tell any difference.
I'm jealous, I could and am poorer for it
Most of the bass amps that utilize IcePower modules have fans. CK insists that their 250asx2 has been beaten on for hours at 4ohms with no fan and no thermal shutdowns. But, the PowerHead is vented so take that info however you want to.
Honestly, the IcePower modules are so small, it could fit into an enclosure and still tuck into the back of a KPA head for a clean install. Or, better yet, mount it like the Ritter amps. I really see no benefit to install it inside a cab/kab, why limit yourself?
