Thanks! No computer speaker here at work, I'll check out the vid tonight
Been waiting for someone to profile this one, really surprised this amp hasn't gotten more attention...it's a great amp. How many profiles come with your pack, both 1 & 1+2 inputs, etc?
Closed headphones are for sound isolation (recording, DJ, etc), not good for dialing in your tone. A good set of open ear headphones are preferable for this. The room has a big effect as well, try different rooms and I always used the DSP monitor setting for home use. When testing out speakers, always try to use stock profiles without any tone tweaking for a more fair comparison.
Try the cab from "Little Prince MD421", thought it sounded good with the nocab profile
Love love love the Ethos OD, glad to see some profiles of it. Ran through some of them really quick and if I replace the cab sim with a Fender Deluxe IR, it sounds pretty good. If you do a direct profile and merge the same cab in, I bet it would sound even better. Don't forget you can save just the cab from any of the stock Kemper profiles. I used the cab from D'Lux Dirty - Cactus
Main difference for me is that the tone changes on the DXR10 going from bedroom volumes to live levels. At low levels, it's very boomy to me and it lessens as you raise the volume, but I always needed to dial out some bass going from my studio monitors or headphones to the DXR10. The CLR sounds the same at all levels and I don't have to touch a thing going from my studio monitors. Of course, you will always have to adjust for the room, but at least the CLR takes out one factor from the equation. But, with all that said, if I hadn't gotten in on the Atomic holiday sale (CLR Neo MkII @ $999), I'd still be playing the Yamaha.
I guess I am in the same boat - I purchased two DXR10s a while back and I ended up selling them because I too found they sounded boxy. Also to me, one thing I found missing was the usual punchy midrange we all look for (at least I do) in a good guitar cab.
I am now contemplating the purchase of a CLR, but then again, I wonder if I'll end up selling it after trying it.
If you're looking for the sound and feel of a real cab, I think you will be disappointed in the CLR. Think of it as a big studio monitor but with better projection. The Gemini might be a better fit, but like I said in my review, I needed to really turn it up to get the cab effect going. The big stores stock them and don't have a problem taking returns if you don't like it, not much of a risk.
Got to test out all four of these at the same time. I invited all SF Bay Area Kemper-ers to come but only one showed up! Maybe he will give his opinions as well. I can try to answer any questions, but everything is packed up and ready to ship out so I won't be plugging them in anymore. The Matrix I bought used so if anyone is interested in buying it, PM me.
Atomic CLR Neo Mk II
Mission Gemini GM1-BT
Right down to it, the Atomic is the undisputed champion in my eyes...er...ears. Sounds so crisp from whisper quiet to knock you over decibel levels. It does everything well from vintage Fender Twin to double triple quadruple rectifier chuga chuga. I mostly use quality studio monitors to refine my profiles and I find I need to change very little when playing through the Atomic. The only question is if it is worth more than double the price of some of the others?
The Yamaha can certainly shine just as well as the Atomic with a few tweakings or switching the DSP settings on the rear. Under low volumes it really has a tendency to sound boomy. Offset that by switching the DSP to the monitor setting and the boominess is gone, but you still have to tweak a bit if you dial in your profiles using studio monitors like I do. And it is LOUD. The DXR10 is definitely the best bang for the buck, but I'm keeping the Atomic.
The Matrix FR12 is the one I wanted to like the most. The weight of this thing, or should I say, lack thereof is amazing. My 6 year old could probably carry it and roadie for me. But, it really sounded thin at low volumes. You really need to turn it up to get the lows and mids to where they need to be and it actually does come close to the clarity you get from the Atomic. The Matrix has 3 DSP settings but the effect is negligible to my ears and didn't compensate enough for my low volume issues. If I were a regular giggin' kinda guy, I could see myself using this exclusively at rehearsals and gigs for the weight and convenience alone. But, for a bedroom poser like me, it just wouldn't get much use.
The Gemini is the one I am having the hardest time parting with. Like the Matrix, it is pretty anemic at low volumes but sounds better and better as the volume goes up. The Gemini has one advantage, a dial where you can lessen the high frequency driver, which helps a bit at bedroom levels. Or, completely turn it off and just use the 12” EV speaker (and turn off cab IRs). What I like most about the Gemini is that it absolutely feels like a real cab when you turn it up. It does change the sound though, but just like a real cab, it's in a good way. You get warmth and richness from the real birch that you don't get from other FRFRs. The reason I'm not keeping it because, like the Matrix, I just won't be using it at the levels needed. But, wow, this really sounded like a real cab when cranked. If you're having trouble liking FRFR, try this one.
Jan 2nd will be the official day for the shootout. PM me for details.
Gemini and Atomic are arriving the week of the 26th. My office in Santa Clara is closed from the 30th-2nd and will be empty and available. Or, if anyone has a more appropriate venue, I'm open for suggestions. Can't hold onto them too long, I'll need to ship them back before the return window closes. Or, if anyone is blown away by what they hear, you're welcome to buy it for my exact cost. Don't know which one I will keep, but I get first pick Let's stick to PMs or email when discussing specific addresses, etc
...want to test out some FRFR? I have a Yamaha DXR10 and a Matrix FR12 with an Atomic CLR and Mission Gemini on the way. I got tired of reading all the opinions and decided to hear them all for myself side by side. And, if anyone has a Xitone, that would be awesome.
I wonder if the downgrade is necessary , or just deleting and reloading the profiles would correct the problem? I'll probably just do the downgrade anyways to be safe at this point.
It seems it was necessary for my situation. Just wiping my KPA had no effect. Just downgrading had no effect. Downgrading then wiping fixed my issues and that seemed to have helped a few other people too.
Musicians use computers. In fact, in this day and age I'd bet most are more adept using an interface than toying with EQ knobs
You must be running around different musician circles than I do, there are FAR more tube people where I am.
So being a noob here, what risk do I take doing this?
Will this procedure work?
- Take a backup (have to figure that out)
- Downgrade to 4.x
- Wipe Flash
- Restore my backup
- Don't import any new delay presets??? Do I need to find those and delete them before I do my backup?
Only thing I didn't do on your list was restore the backup, I didn't want any remnants of the prior setup. I just imported all my profiles and cabs after going back up to v5. I have not imported the new delays yet, I'm getting rather fed up with it so I don't want to mess it up again. I've owned this thing for less than a year and I've already sent it back twice for repairs and countless hours of troubleshooting. Actually, I'm willing to bet I've spent more time trying to fix things than playing.
Hope the fix works for you
Well, I solved my high frequency issues after seeing this thread
Basically, downgrade then wipe the flash memory then upgrade back to v5. Any other combination of upgrade/downgrade, flash, etc didn't work for me and I tried them all.
Thanks Douzable, I tried restoring, downgrading, then back upgrading to try to fix my tone issues with no effect. I read this thread...downgraded, then init flash, then upgraded back to v5 and my issues went away. I suspect it was the new delay presets as well.
Seems to me lately that I've been having to significantly turn down the presence of many profiles and up the treble to compensate to get rid of this high frequency fizz. I know we've been told over and over that updates don't effect the tone of profiles, but I don't remember ever having to do this before.
Budget amps or expensive pro equipment...whatever works for you, don't let anyone try to convince you that something sounds bad. But, with that said, by not going FRFR, you're missing all sorts of opportunities to try various cabs and speakers. You're limiting yourself to just that ONE setup. It might sound great with some profiles but not so great on others and you're stuck with it. And, let's be honest, of course a real guitar cabinet is going to sound better than a simulated one!!! Guess what, a real amp will too! But, limiting yourself to just one rig isn't why most of us bought into the KPA.
I've only found the "stepped" knobs (Type and Browse ones) to feel a little-less robust than the conventional ones, which on my unit have no "play"/ lateral movement, which is great. Personally I just try to be careful when using the two I singled out. AFAIK, those two do have a little lateral play on all units; this is normal.
Yeah, you'll void your warranty if you attempt to tighten them from the inside as you were contemplating. IMHO, you'd be better off leaving them alone and if there's an issue you'd think they'd fail within the 3-year warranty period, at which time you could get them fixed for the price of shipping alone.
If they continue to function perfectly throughout the 3-year period, they're likely operating within spec.
In the US, opening up or circumventing a security seal will not automatically void warranties no matter what the manufacturer warnings may say. If something does go wrong, it is up to the manufacturer to prove the tampering caused the problem. When dealing with electronics, yes, one static charge can render an entire device useless so it's best to let an official repair place do the work. But if you make a custom mount, for example, and drill a couple holes in the case and then later your LCD goes out, you are fully covered under the warranty unless the manufacturer can prove you caused the damage. that proof would have to be definitive and not just "it could have caused it". Unfortunately, it is not illegal for manufacturers to put unenforceable claims on tamper seals. Europe usually has even stronger consumer protection laws so I wouldn't be surprised if this was also the case in other countries.
U.S. 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
I've been using this EQ curve for 25+ years in the absence of a cab sim