Posts by aceman199

    I see "Use lower Loop" in your Effect Loop picture. If you connect your external gear to SEND 1 and RETURN 1+2, you need to select "Use Upper Loop" instead.


    Why do you select Loop Mono, if you intend to connect a device providing a stereo signal?

    Loop mono in this case was an accident--was trying all the settings.


    Looks like "use lower loop" was the issue. That soft botton "use lower loop" is confusing af! It fixed it though. Thank you!

    Hi everybody. This is probably operator error, but I can't figure this out.


    I have a stereo pedal that is properly hooked up in the Kemper Stage UPPER stereo loop. I want to install this pedal in the "X" stereo module, but the Stage seems to be muting the whole signal chain and the screen shows "Effect loop not possible! Aux input is used."


    WHAT aux input? Is there a hidden input I don't know about? What's going on?


    The connections on the back of my Stage include:


    - "Input" (from guitar)

    - "Pedal 3" (from expression pedal)

    - "Send 1" (to stereo effects pedal)

    - "Return 1/2" (from stereo effects pedal)

    - "Main out" (stereo)

    - "Monitor out" (stereo)


    I know the stereo pedal is working (there is an unexplained thing that in certain circumstances/series of button mashes, I was able to hear my stereo effects pedal. However, I was only able to hear it right after browsing to the loop stereo effect and before "selecting" it. The stereo loop "muted" itself when I selected either "load type" or "load default" on the effects selection page. I cannot seem to even get this back.)


    Help!


    P.S. My cables are very short and I have other stuff in the way on my pedal board blocking Send 2 & Return 3/4). I want to use Send 1 and Return 1/2.

    P.P.S. No, my effects loop is NOT connected to the lower loop (send 2/return 3/4). If I select "use lower loop," I can hear the guitar, but the effects loop doesn't do anything (duh, because no signal is going through it).

    Thank you, Lighbox. I appreciate your response. And yes, if I knew everything, I wouldn't be asking questions in the first place. That's the point of forums: get opinions, get answers, and discuss. Asking a question or having a misunderstanding doesn't mean there isn't value in knowing the answer, or in teaching the answers, so thank you.


    I did not know dBu was measured for a 600 Ohm load, but glad I now know. Happy to learn.


    And yes, you reiterated what I said in my second post: When they say "maximum output +16 dBu" they are referring to "headroom," which to me is a more clear term to me. After all, Eurorack signals are often +15 dBu or higher, so, I prefer to ask a question than make an assumption.


    Follow on question:

    Since you reiterated dB being unitles, what is the master output [0 dB] relative to? 0 dB corresponds to +4 dBu? Is zero dB relative to the input voltage then normalized at 0 dB? Is it referenced to another unnamed voltage or to one volt and then normalized to 0? Do the specs or manual say it somewhere or is this another "assume" it's relative to the input or referencing +4 dBu?

    Just this part of a sentence from your original post tells me that more detailed specs wouldn't help you.

    That’s a rude, disrespectful, and incorrect statement. Were you ever taught “if you don’t have anything nice to say don’t say anything at all?” Your knowledge is welcome, should you be willing to share it. By the sound of it, you know something I (or we) don’t know, so enlighten us.


    I’m assuming you’re making this statement because “upstream” isn’t a technician term. Although this is true, it is still relevant. dB must be referenced to something, and when Kemper sets dB = 0, they are setting a normalized dB to zero that was previously relative to a something (be it 1V, 0.775V, 1 mW, 20 uPa, etc). dB =0 by itself means nothing, and the fact that there is multiple gain stages in the Kemper makes it even more of an arbitrary number.

    When your master volume is set to 0 dB and your input voltage changes, like your guitar turned down to one, your output voltage will change, as evidenced by a lower voltage to your speaker. What does 0 dB mean given a change in “upstream voltage?” At 0 dB on master volume, is the voltage held constant on the outputs? If so, how does a speaker get quieter when you turn down York guitar? If not, does 0 dB mean anything at all?

    My whole point here is 0 dB is really arbitrary on its own, but I may be wrong. I’m happy to learn more from somebody who is willing to share some knowledge.

    It is a +4db pro line level unit. The +16db figure relates to the maximum output gain not the measurement standard. The 0dB figure you mention is 0dBfs (full scale) which is the maximum internal digital level it isn’t directly comparable with the dBu analog output.


    Output impedance is low enough to successfully integrate with any other equipment.

    If this is true, I wish the specs would say this:

    "Output: +4 dBu; Headroom: +16 dBu."


    Or in the very least, say in the manual that the [0 dB] setting on master volume is 0 dBFS normalized to +4 dBu; however, this may not be true. From what I understand, Kemper (and every other designer) is going to normalize dBFS to wherever they want and they probably are taking into consideration where clipping occurs.


    It's a good guess to say that [0 dB] = +4 dBu, but it's just a guess.


    Expressing my frustration here:

    Based on the amount of confusion between dBV, dBu, dB, line level, instrument level, unbalanced, balanced, input and output impedances etc., the "stupification" of the consumers starts with dumbing down specifications and user manuals. I don't understand the rationale of dumbing down specs, unless it is to obfuscate real details, or to hide a lack of rigorous electronics performance characterization.

    Team Kemper,


    Happy Kemper user here, and I am investigating integrating my Kemper with other systems. I find the Kemper specs confusing and inadequate in my efforts.


    1) The Profiler specs say the analog output level is +16 dBu (or +15 dBu, depending on the model out output).  

    • Can somebody knowledgeable explain what this means?
    • In other words, when I set the master volume (and all other upstream volumes) to [0 dB], what is the output level? Is it +16 dBu? Is it +4 dBu (normal line level) but the max allowable (without clipping) is +16 dBu? What is the [0 dB] on the volume knob referenced to?!?!

    2) What is the output impedance for monitor and main outputs?


    3) Why doesn't Kemper give us good specs here?

    Hi guys, I'm checking to see if the Kemper Stage will work with my current setup and am looking for Stage dimensions.


    The website says its "height" is 3.35 inches.

    Where is this measured from?

    What is the height from the ground to top of the metal, as shown?



    Thanks. I had planned on looking for one with an original receipt and not too old, but that may be hard to find at a price that makes it worth it.


    In the end, I think buying new will be safer and better for me since I'll have the peace of mind.. Thanks guys.

    Hi guys from California.


    I’m a happy unpowered toaster camper here, but I want to swap my toaster for a
    Stage to simplify my setup. I’m considering buying used to save a couple hundred bucks.


    - I think I recall hearing that the Stages had issues with the push buttons. Is this true? If so, do the newer production runs still have such issues? When was it resolved?


    - Are there other issues with older production runs on the Stage that makes buying used more risky?


    - Is there anybody who bought a used Kemper that they had issues and had to deal with Kemper customer service? How was it? Does Kemper serve second-owners when they have issues?

    Yes, It’s true that the remote is one cable unless you have other pedals that you want. In my case, I cannot live without the Cali76 deluxe (and therefore I also need a power supply). Even if I had the remote, I’d still need a way to power the power supply. With this mod, a power supply, and the Snake, I have the flexibility to add as many stomps as I want, but keep the same leads.


    And yes, one lead from guitar to compressor, then the other lead is the pedal snake to the amp.


    Don’t get me wrong— I’d rather have the Kemper Remote’s functionally. Thing looks nice. $$$

    Thanks for your perspective on the remote. Yeah... way nicer for sure. On the number of leads... right now I'm down to one lead with the pedal snake and a DC mod on the FCB1010. If I went to the Remote, I'd actually be adding a lead!


    Here's my post about the DC mod:

    Behringer FCB1010 mod for DC power

    Welcome, aceman. :)


    You must have some serious talent in order to be able to play all the stuff you mentioned. Way to go, man. 8):thumbup:

    :S If you don't turn up too loud, they can't tell you are faking it! No seriously--you hit it... it's difficult to play so many genres, which is the same reason why I'll never shred as well as Yngwie, play the blues-rock like Clapton, country like Brent Mason for country, or finger style like Tommy Emmanuel, comp like Freddie Green... jack of all trades and master of none!

    Wanted to share my experience and knowledge about my DC power modification of the Behringer FCB1010.


    If you didn't know, the FCB1010 is powered off the shelf by AC. This sucks. I still have a power supply on my pedal board with extra DC outputs, so I set out to power the FCB1010 via DC.


    Things I learned about opening it up that may help you if you want to power your FCB1010 with DC:

    - AC power from the wall is transformed to about 9.8 volts and goes through the yellow wires soldered to the PCB. The current draw through the yellow wires is less than 200 mA

    - These yellow wires go through a bridge rectifier, rectifying AC power to approximately 11.5 V

    - This now rectified DC power travels to a 7805 Voltage Regulator. Left terminal of the regulator is input, middle is ground, right it output. The output voltage is about 5V --> my guess is this is the working voltage within all of the integrated circuits.


    What I did:

    - Drilled a hole in FCB1010's cabinet to accept the DC power terminal jack

    - Soldered the positive (hot) cable of the DC power terminal wire to the output of the bridge rectifier

    - Soldered the negative (ground) cable of the DC power terminal wire to ground.

    - Adjusted my power supply to output 11.5 volts

    - Plugged in and voila!!!


    Lessons learned (because I'm a n00b, though I am an engineer (mechanical)):

    - For a non-permanent mod, you don't need to snip the yellow, transformed AC power input wires


    - What adapter plug polarity is. For guitar pedals and guitar pedal power supplies (like my MXR iso-brick), the "hot" part of the plug is on the outside, and ground is on the inner terminal. This can be a problem when modding your 1010 unless you choose the right female DC jack to attach to your FCB1010 cabinet. I used the UNO4Kemper jack, which is metal, and here's the problem you may run into if you use this: After connecting your pedal power supply (like the MXR iso brick) into the Uno4kemper dc jack, the outer, threaded part of this jack becomes "hot." When you put this jack through the side of your metal FCB enclosure and tighten the jack down to the cabinet with the supplied nut and washer, you will ground out all of your power supply's output to your FCB1010 cabinet. So, you need either insulate the hole that you drill, or get an insulated DC jack to affix to your FCB1010. Also, uno4kemper's instructions have you connect both the positive and negative wires of the jack to both input diodes on the rectifier. This doesn't make sense to me. What makes sense is that you put the hot DC lead in line with the DC rail, and you put the other wire/lead onto ground. I chose the ground that is on the rectifier because I can solder it there. FYI the whole FCB1010 cabinet is the same ground as the integrated circuits' ground.



    End result?

    Cables I was running to the pedal board before (All the plugged in cables I was running included):

    - Guitar cable from pedals to amp

    - AC power cord to FCB1010

    - DC power from wall wart to the MXR ISO Brick

    - MIDI in and out cables


    Now:

    ONE CABLE!! ...PedalSnake from the back! The snake is carrying the guitar signal from pedals to the amp, DC power for MXR ISO Brick (from my power strip back with my Kemper head and powered speaker), Midi send, Midi return.


    Hey guys, I said hello before, but I'm saying hello again because after 2.5 years of auditioning the Kemper, I can finally say with confidence that I am a happy customer.


    I've been lurking here for a while and have had the Kemper unpowered head for about 2.5 years. After a lot of going back and forth, the past few months of using (specifically for gigs with a diverse set of songs/musical styles), I'm so sold.


    My chain:

    Guitar > Origin Effects Cali76 > Kemper > CPS SpaceStation V3 controlled with a UNO4Kemper Behringer FCB1010.


    My story:

    I originally started playing Kemper without the FCB1010 and through a Yamaha DXR10. It sounded good, good enough to sell my trusty (heavy 'n' loud) Fender Twin Custom 15, but I hadn't fallen in love big time. Eventually I bought a CPS SpaceStation V3 and I got more in love, but still on the fence and kept lurking at Helix's and Axe FX's. Then, Kemper brought out the Spring Reverb -- now we're talking. Then finally, I got an FCB1010 and it's game over. This thing rocks beyond belief. Having played a couple of gigs with the Kemper and FCB1010, I'm super happy, so is the band, and so is the audience.


    What I use it for:

    A concert/big band style group that does everything from Earth Wind and Fire, Beach Boys, and Chicago medleys, to big band jazz, to movie themes and everything in between. In other words, to get the right sound for the right occasion, I have to use all kinds of amps, including multiple amps within each piece.


    Recommendations if you're considering buying a Kemper:

    - Get a controller for it and you'll be happy (Behringer FCB1010, Kemper Remote, etc) (take a look at buying a used Kemper with remote included).


    Thanks!