Posts by aceman199

    Yes, It’s true that the remote is one cable unless you have other pedals that you want. In my case, I cannot live without the Cali76 deluxe (and therefore I also need a power supply). Even if I had the remote, I’d still need a way to power the power supply. With this mod, a power supply, and the Snake, I have the flexibility to add as many stomps as I want, but keep the same leads.

    And yes, one lead from guitar to compressor, then the other lead is the pedal snake to the amp.

    Don’t get me wrong— I’d rather have the Kemper Remote’s functionally. Thing looks nice. $$$

    Thanks for your perspective on the remote. Yeah... way nicer for sure. On the number of leads... right now I'm down to one lead with the pedal snake and a DC mod on the FCB1010. If I went to the Remote, I'd actually be adding a lead!

    Here's my post about the DC mod:

    Behringer FCB1010 mod for DC power

    Welcome, aceman. :)

    You must have some serious talent in order to be able to play all the stuff you mentioned. Way to go, man. 8):thumbup:

    :S If you don't turn up too loud, they can't tell you are faking it! No seriously--you hit it... it's difficult to play so many genres, which is the same reason why I'll never shred as well as Yngwie, play the blues-rock like Clapton, country like Brent Mason for country, or finger style like Tommy Emmanuel, comp like Freddie Green... jack of all trades and master of none!

    Wanted to share my experience and knowledge about my DC power modification of the Behringer FCB1010.

    If you didn't know, the FCB1010 is powered off the shelf by AC. This sucks. I still have a power supply on my pedal board with extra DC outputs, so I set out to power the FCB1010 via DC.

    Things I learned about opening it up that may help you if you want to power your FCB1010 with DC:

    - AC power from the wall is transformed to about 9.8 volts and goes through the yellow wires soldered to the PCB. The current draw through the yellow wires is less than 200 mA

    - These yellow wires go through a bridge rectifier, rectifying AC power to approximately 11.5 V

    - This now rectified DC power travels to a 7805 Voltage Regulator. Left terminal of the regulator is input, middle is ground, right it output. The output voltage is about 5V --> my guess is this is the working voltage within all of the integrated circuits.

    What I did:

    - Drilled a hole in FCB1010's cabinet to accept the DC power terminal jack

    - Soldered the positive (hot) cable of the DC power terminal wire to the output of the bridge rectifier

    - Soldered the negative (ground) cable of the DC power terminal wire to ground.

    - Adjusted my power supply to output 11.5 volts

    - Plugged in and voila!!!

    Lessons learned (because I'm a n00b, though I am an engineer (mechanical)):

    - For a non-permanent mod, you don't need to snip the yellow, transformed AC power input wires

    - What adapter plug polarity is. For guitar pedals and guitar pedal power supplies (like my MXR iso-brick), the "hot" part of the plug is on the outside, and ground is on the inner terminal. This can be a problem when modding your 1010 unless you choose the right female DC jack to attach to your FCB1010 cabinet. I used the UNO4Kemper jack, which is metal, and here's the problem you may run into if you use this: After connecting your pedal power supply (like the MXR iso brick) into the Uno4kemper dc jack, the outer, threaded part of this jack becomes "hot." When you put this jack through the side of your metal FCB enclosure and tighten the jack down to the cabinet with the supplied nut and washer, you will ground out all of your power supply's output to your FCB1010 cabinet. So, you need either insulate the hole that you drill, or get an insulated DC jack to affix to your FCB1010. Also, uno4kemper's instructions have you connect both the positive and negative wires of the jack to both input diodes on the rectifier. This doesn't make sense to me. What makes sense is that you put the hot DC lead in line with the DC rail, and you put the other wire/lead onto ground. I chose the ground that is on the rectifier because I can solder it there. FYI the whole FCB1010 cabinet is the same ground as the integrated circuits' ground.

    End result?

    Cables I was running to the pedal board before (All the plugged in cables I was running included):

    - Guitar cable from pedals to amp

    - AC power cord to FCB1010

    - DC power from wall wart to the MXR ISO Brick

    - MIDI in and out cables


    ONE CABLE!! ...PedalSnake from the back! The snake is carrying the guitar signal from pedals to the amp, DC power for MXR ISO Brick (from my power strip back with my Kemper head and powered speaker), Midi send, Midi return.

    Hey guys, I said hello before, but I'm saying hello again because after 2.5 years of auditioning the Kemper, I can finally say with confidence that I am a happy customer.

    I've been lurking here for a while and have had the Kemper unpowered head for about 2.5 years. After a lot of going back and forth, the past few months of using (specifically for gigs with a diverse set of songs/musical styles), I'm so sold.

    My chain:

    Guitar > Origin Effects Cali76 > Kemper > CPS SpaceStation V3 controlled with a UNO4Kemper Behringer FCB1010.

    My story:

    I originally started playing Kemper without the FCB1010 and through a Yamaha DXR10. It sounded good, good enough to sell my trusty (heavy 'n' loud) Fender Twin Custom 15, but I hadn't fallen in love big time. Eventually I bought a CPS SpaceStation V3 and I got more in love, but still on the fence and kept lurking at Helix's and Axe FX's. Then, Kemper brought out the Spring Reverb -- now we're talking. Then finally, I got an FCB1010 and it's game over. This thing rocks beyond belief. Having played a couple of gigs with the Kemper and FCB1010, I'm super happy, so is the band, and so is the audience.

    What I use it for:

    A concert/big band style group that does everything from Earth Wind and Fire, Beach Boys, and Chicago medleys, to big band jazz, to movie themes and everything in between. In other words, to get the right sound for the right occasion, I have to use all kinds of amps, including multiple amps within each piece.

    Recommendations if you're considering buying a Kemper:

    - Get a controller for it and you'll be happy (Behringer FCB1010, Kemper Remote, etc) (take a look at buying a used Kemper with remote included).


    Cool mod, man. Thanks for the pics! Question about the transformer: You have a picture that shows a 9V .3A transformer. Is that the original? If not, how is it working? I'm concerned about the max current draw.

    I'm about to mod mine to cut out the transformer and put in a DC input powered from my pedal board's power supply, but the max power output from my p/s is about 4 Amps (9V, 450mA).

    Guys, wow! Glad I found this Kemper. The forum was a help.

    What I play: Mostly in the home studio nowadays, but I have done a lot of musical theater, jazz bands, rock bands, everything. Volume control has always been important. Gotta keep the wife happy.

    Gear I ustah play:
    - Fender Twin Custom 15. 85lbs whoa too much. Sounded great above 3.5 but holy crap was it loud. --> Wife not happy.
    - My self-built Fender 5F2A. Sounds good with a little bit of crunch but not too too versatile. Still loud. Too loud to get distortion out of it when you are playing with an orchestra, so I resorted to overdrive pedals--not ideal.
    - Assortment of other Fender amps

    Then I started investigating power soaks, then discovered the FluxTone Speaker cab. They are super expensive but are the coolest thing since sliced bread. Almost bought one used at an insanely good price and I asked the guy why he was selling. He said "I'm going the Kemper route." I hadn't even heard of a Kemper at the time and yadda yadda yadda here I am with a Kemper Toaster and I love it.

    Still looking to get a speaker for it, but even through headphones I'm impressed!

    I'm using a BlueChip STP 60--never wears out and has a great clean sound that can very from bright and warm, depending on your attack. Also using Fred Kelly BumbleBee thumbpick extra heavies. They wear out unlike BlueChips (but way cheaper) and have an incredible sound--no squeak/quack that normal thumbpicks have.