Posts by BobWalters

    Sbomb,

    Consider Paults suggested on the series cable or box . It also gives you the option to use only one cab for a rehearsal or smaller venue as well. Fwiw, the impedance of a speaker is constantly changing depending on the amp output frequency at that time, and does not always correspond to the measured DC Ohmic value.

    Hey rik777, If you measured the dimensions of the Remote and contact a local seamstress, they could certainly make one for you at a reasonable cost. I have considered the same thing to keep dust off of mine when not in use.


    If you plan to use the Remote with the cover on, then I suggest the seamstress use a lighter/flexible gauge plastic to operate the footswitches easier.


    Or if this is just for temporary use, you may be able to locate poly bags approx. 12" x 24" that would slip over the entire remote. fwiw, I usually carry the lawn/leaf type bags to cover my gear if rain is imminent.

    I built a mounting bracket whenever using the Headrush cab. It was made from 1"x 3" wood strips using glue and screws and bolts to the top 17mm holes on the top of the cab. It provides enough side bracing to hold the 4U rack in place.


    Also it tilts back a bit with a 1" x 3" piece of wood. This also provides a better view of the Kemper. At my age this is an easy setup w/ less load in. I simply hand tighten the bracket onto the cab and tilt it back after wiring. The mounting bracket has self stick padding so the 4U rack has a bit of protection and dampening.


    The rear cover of the rack mount also is used to store the remote during load in/out.

    How can I reduce the return level further than -32dB?


    Read post #2

    You have 2 choices:

    1). If you have no spare parts and are not familiar with building your own, then your best option is to buy an inline attenuator (Hosa or similar) as flcmcya suggested.

    2). If you want to build your own, as I suggested, then you simply dial in the amount of attenuation you want. I own an audio repair business, and usually have spare parts to build what is needed.

    Leonheart, Congrats on the Kemper and Headrush.

    I also have the same setup, but occasionally use a Thiele cab loaded w/ an EVM 12L.


    The only thing I change on the profiler when using the Headrush cab is to lower the Monitor Output EQ Bass setting to a -0.5. (See Output Section Page 3 of 7)


    It took just enough bass out for my ears. Your mileage may vary.

    Here is something interesting for the DIYers.    After a review of the Dayton Audio (DA) PPA800D pwr amp from Parts Express. vs the Xitone pwr amp. They appear to be the same plate amp. The PPA800 has a DSP shaping function, capable of shaping and compensating for most cab/speaker deficiencies via the USB port. Xitone most likely had DA preset the DSP for their cab and had no need for the USB port.


    Something to consider:


    Xitone FRFR Active Wedge ~ $899


    Dayton Audio PPA800D ~ $279

    Eminence Beta-12CX ~$85

    Eminence PSD2002-8 ~$75

    cab/wedge materials ~$200

    Total ~$640 + free labor


    I am not advocating either selection, just illustrating the options for anyone interested in a DIY frfr pwr cab.


    Currently I use either a Headrush cab or a Thiele cab loaded w/ an EVM12L, depending on the gig.


    Cheers. :-)





    Ewrath, Unfortunately the output of the Kemper amp, a Class D or G type amp, is most likely blown and-not a simple fuse issue. It may have taken out the bass amp output as well.


    Finally has a great suggestion:

    If it's going to cost significant money to fix I'd go for a stereo power amp so you can run stereo guitar cabs without a PA or powered speakers.

    B&O IcePower modules have replaceable fuses, it may be something as simple as swapping out the 5mm fuse. If it were me I'd go as far as swapping out the power amp module, but I have experience with this type of thing.

    7 years means it's out of warranty. so checking the fuse won't cost you anything. However if you're not comfortable opening it up and testing the fuse, then DO NOT attempt it. Also anything beyond that, means the great folks at Kemper may not want to work with it if you go further.

    I believe this is the power amp module. If it isn't, then it is very similar. The fuse on this module is located on the far bottom left side of the board. Since Ceramic fuses cannot be checked visually, you will need a multimeter. Unplug the amp from any power source before attempting this. Lifting one side of the fuse or taking it out and measuring the Ohmic value will indicate if it's open (blown) or shorted (good fuse). HTH