Yes, but the "preamp" is the Kemper, i use two of these Ice amps, works great
digibob, good point, was focused on how to bypass the preamp w/o considering what was going to connect to it 
. fwiw, I used to design and build Class D pwr supplies but am not familiar w/ the pwr amps currently available. cheers
Display MoreCool if the OP and others like the BAM Bass Amp.
Is there a way to bypass the bass preamp (the separate tone stack and gain (distortion/drive) stage), to avoid the coloration it introduces?
I understand how Class D works, and why it’s desirable for an application like the Kemper... but why throw a bass preamp and the extra coloration and circuitry into the signal chain?
Why not just buy a good clean Class D amp? Like the ICE amps that Kemper uses? (They are readily available as power amps or modules)
Serious question, not putting the BAM down.
(I never used one, preferring a clean Class D power amp solution)
post deleted
Understood, but the BAM is a bass amp at heart - not a Class D designed for this application or clean, neutral linear power. That said, if the OP likes it - it works.
I agree w/ dmatthews on staying clean even at the top for guitars. Here's why: A Class D amp (aka an H Bridge topology) works by turning the FETs completely on and off at varying pulse widths (time) to create a single note. The difference is that at lower bass frequencies vs guitar, more power is required to complete all the pulses required to create a single bass wave vs a guitar wave. This assumes both guitar and bass are running at the same SPL output. This same principle is used in switchmode power supplies. Imagine looking at an oscilloscope of a bass note vs a guitar note. The lower bass note is much wider vs a guitar. All the area underneath the wave is the amount of energy needed to create it. This explains why frequency = 1/time. The lower the frequency, the more time (and energy)) is needed to create the wave. hth
FWIW,
I would think a Lexan screen protector would be more durable, since plexiglass can crank and shatter. Lexan is more forgiving and doesn't crack. This only based on front panels I have made using lexan.
...My failure was a different story, I blew up the input in the icepower because I was trying to bridge it with another amp and see how it worked, I realized I made a short circuit too late.
Alahdj, Although the icepower amps are rugged, Class D type amps don't do well with a miswiring either on the input or output. If you bridged the output w/ another amp, then the output FETS have most likely failed possibly along with the drivers. If you blew the input, then too large an input signal most likely failed the first gain stage. I doubt you can acquire a schematic from B&O but a service center in your area may be able to help. hth
Thanks for the effort.
Alfahdj,
What did you use to record the frequency response?
Done. Hope your Thesis goes well.
That works! Good job RobStar.
If you asked this question to Kemper they most likely would answer you, since you only want to increase the size of the rubber feet. I doubt there is a nut welded to be panel, as this would increase the cost of manufacturing and is not really essential since the panel gauge is sufficient.
The Bang Olufsen ICEpower amps are well designed and use quality electrolytics, (Nichicons, etc.) not the less expensive caps used in various Chinese Class D amps. (SURE, Behringer(some), to name a few) I have had no problems with any of the ICE Power units also found in some of the MAudio Monitors.
I have (had) been a member of Amp Garage for over 13 years and built a copy of the Dumble #124 low plate Skyliner. Tweaked it a lot w/ help from Scott Lerner, Brandon Montgomery (of Bludotone), and others on their forum.
Yes, although I acquired a great tone from the build, the Kemper and this forum offers so much more versatility than a single amp could ever offer.
Thanks to all who support our Kemper community.
Yes, Thank you.
I just installed OS 7.5.4. 19312 successfully, and Rig manager 3_0_136 as well after a 2nd attempt.
All is well.
RobD,
You could always try a gasket sealer typically used for making automotive gaskets. It comes in various colors, but black may be better suited for the cab. It dries to a rubbery texture. I suggest you create a continuous bead around the cab or speaker, wait for it to tack, then mount the speaker. If you don't like it, then it can be removed w/ little effort.
Thanks for your efforts. I have a 64 Deluxe, no Reverb, these are great profiles.
Paul,
Thank you Sir for your efforts. These are wonderful delays.
A great suggestion. Thanks Awesome Elvis!
Thank you.
Lately I have been listening to Sonny Landreth's, From the Reach LP. Sonny is a musician's musician. Playing behind the slide is difficult and it took me about a year to learn it.
Special guests include: Jimmy Buffet, Eric Clapton, Robben Ford, Vince Gill, Dr. John, Eric Johnson, Mark Knopfler and Nadirah Shakoor.
It's coming as part of OS 7.5... We are on 7.1 right now so don't expect it too soon..
Thanks CG, Am looking forward to this addition, and possibly one less item on future load in and outs.
