Yep, I've got a lot of dust on all my valve amps now too 
Posts by Wheresthedug
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The Camper is not FRFR. It´s GFR (guitar flat response), 70-10.000 Hz. FRFR goes up to 15.000 Hz.
10k is close enought to FRFR for me as my ears don't go up to 15k any more - too many years inform of 100w valve amps
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I'm confident, that the TYPE knob lists all effect types including the new reverb types introduced in 5.7.
I was turning the Type knob last night and couldn't find the EQs for the life of me. Turned the Browse knob and eventually got a couple of EQ presets to work from. Either I was having a really bad night or there may be a bug that isn't showing everything properly.
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Haha Morph
No doubt you have also heard me describe Morphing as a work of genius. Just focus on that part
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There is a clear all morph button already. Does that not do what you need?
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Thumbs are over rated anyway
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the Audio Technica that is not as flat
Remember that I came from a pair of Dr Dre Beats before the ATH50 so I didn't have a great base line to measure from
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Can I conclude that you are making a direct amp profile because you put a DI between the 2:90 and the cab? I have a Kemper DI
, so I can make a great DAP.Yes, I made DAP
The 20/20 doesn't have a line/instrument level switch. However I can use my Radial X-Amp box to do the conversion from line to instrument level.
I'm not sure the X Amp box is necessary. Would that not be converting the opposite way? The direct out from the KPA would be sending a signal suitable for a normal guitar amp input already. Whereas the X Amp would be used if you need to convert a line level low Z signal to a guitar level High Z signal.
So here is your signal chain:
Guitar --> Kemper --> Direct Out --> Triaxis --> Output 1 --> Direct In on Kemper.Yes
I assume you used the 2:90 profile loaded in the stack, with the Triaxis connected to the Kemper hardware loop send and return jacks loaded into an FX loop placed in Stomp D.
Yes
I am pretty pumped about this. I plan on using this technique to mix and match preamps with various power amp types.
Remember that I only did this as a way to test the effect of the preamp / power amp relationship in a profile rather than as something I would typically use because of the extra hassle involved. In the real world I would probably just make DAP profiles of the various pre/power amp combinations and save the while signal chain as a single profile.
If you want to try it out though download my 2:ninety profiles from RE and pair them with your various pre amps to see if the concept is what you are looking form.
Good luck experimenting
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Not yet Muddy. She's currently hibernating for a month waiting for the lacquer to cure. We'll have a good heart to heart when she wakens up though.
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Effects? effects?
The guitar volume and pickup selector switch are my effects
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Man, that's a whole lotta Rosie.
No that's no a lotta rosie. She's been on a diet and there's very little of her left
saw a fairly recent interview with Brian May where he talked about building his guitar (because he couldn't afford a "proper" store bought one). What I didn't know is that he built it with his dad, which makes it that much more personal.
Yes. I believe it used to be his mother's mantelpiece before it became a guitar. I also found out recently that his Red Special is also hollow. They intended it to have F holes apparently but never got round to putting them in
My friends encourage me to avoid power tools, so I admire the skill.
Thanks but I can assure you there have been plenty of times when I should have avoided power tools too.
This is my first solo build which I made for my daughter. However, when making the control cavity I got a bit carried away with the router. I took off way too much material with each pass and ended up with the router bit coming loose, bending the shank, flying out the collet, bursting right through the top then the flames spewing from the router motor
Fortunately, I still have both legs and all my fingers. I patched up the hole as best I could but it still serves as a vivid reminder of the dangers of idiots with power tools. -
Any good guitar porn requires nudity so here are some gratuitous shots of Rosie naked
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Thanks ToneDeaf its a glue joint. The body started out as a solid piece of Utile (a mahogany substitute). Then I decided it was going to be too heavy so sawed the top off and hollowed it out almost completely along the lines of a PRS HBII. I glued the original Utile top back on to make it a stealth semi. Unfortunately, I then screwed up the measurements and put the neck pickup route in the wrong place
That meant I had to fill the hole and put a new top over the mistake. That gave me a chance to put something a little more visual on so I went Indian Rosewood. All the electrics will go in through the bridge pickup cavity so there is no plastic cover showing. -
but I got this feeling that I should have gone with the Powered one.. In case the pubs and places where I'm gonna play don't have a PA etc..
If you are micing it you clearly have a PA so don't need the same onstage solution. If the venue has a PA you can probably get a monitor feed if you need to or use IEM. Again, it all depends on your needs. I wouldn't try and mic studio monitors for several reasons such as you would only be micing the woofer not the tweeter so wouldn't get the full sound. You would get on stage spill that you don't need when you could simply send the Main XLR outs to the PA.
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I wouldn't go there. Firstly, studio monitors aren't built to take the knocks of live use and the speakers are unprotected so may get damaged in transit. Secondly, they are designed to produce a good sound relatively close to the listener. They are unlikely to project sounds well in a live situation. Also, 70w isn't a lot of headroom so in order to get them loud enough for live use you run the risk of clipping the amp and damaging the speakers. It's not worth it I my opinion.
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You only need the Powered KPA if you want to use a traditional guitar cab. I bought the powered just to have that option but many people here don't use a guitar cab and are perfectly happy with active FRFR speakers.
You will find various popular options in the forum ranging from Headrush and the relatively cheap but highly regarded Yamaha DXR10 right up to much more expensive cabs like Mission, Friedman etc. The preferred choice is very much a matter of taste so ideally you want to try a few in a local shop if at all possible.
If you really want to run a traditional guitar cab but don't want the hassle of returning the current KPA there are severally very popular external power amps that you could use. Again these range from pedal sized amps and the Camplifier (which actually fits into the back of the KPA head) up to rack mount stereo power amps so much will depend on your own requirements.
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No, not as far as I know. However, I can see the logic in this decision as most mod effects need the dry signal to work. If you take the dry signal out of a chorus for example you get Vibrato. It’s the rub between the dry and wet that creates the effect.
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Just get them handmade. It’s just as easy to make them either way and mass produced are usually pants (as they say in Lancashire UK). It doesn’t need to break the bank neither.
I’ve been playing right handed for 35 years no point changing now
As for hand made, ive just finished spraying the lacquer on this one and is now going to sit for a month to cure before I polish it up and finish assembling. Its my fourth build so far but I have three more underway too.
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I'm a lefty but learned to play right handed from the start because my guitar teacher told me I would have a lifetime of trouble trying to buy guitars if I didn't.
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I listed it all in this thread.
The 2:ninety actually has a Line/Instrument level switch.
Hope it helps.
Can you use ONLY the power amp section of the Power rack version?
