Posts by BavidDrent

I have an unpowered toaster, so an active version of a cab would be awesome. But if a cab sounds better, I could get a power station to use with my Kemper.

But yeah. What speakers do you folk personally vouche for?

Quote from alligatorlizard

Haven't yet tried a Fractal, but I'm planning to get an FM3 at some point soon - I far prefer the workflow and methodology of modelers, being able to dial in your own tone from scratch, however any I've tried in the past (mostly software based) have fallen short in terms realistic tone and feel. Hence why I got a Kemper. Which certainly captures realistic tones, and feels right, but it can be hard to find specific tones you're after, depending on what works with your pickups etc. And I really don't like the "buy-to-try" business model of profile sellers - everyone seems to agree you have to try (e.g. buy!) a lot of profiles to find probably just a few that work for you, so it follows that all these companies make far more money from unsatisfied customers than satisfied ones. I'm at a point where I've bought more profiles than I care to think about, and though only a very small percentage of these have worked for me, I do now have a good selection of some really excellent sounds (mostly DI plus IR's) - BUT every now and then I need a certain sound for a certain mix, or just want to try a different amp, and there's no getting round the long/frustrating/potentially expensive search for something that works.

Hence why planning to add a modeler to my home studio. Fractal seems to be widely acknowledged as the best modeler when it comes to realism and feel, so if I'm going to compare anything to the Kemper, this seems the way to go.

The plan is to keep the Kemper tho - I think I'd miss the sounds I've found for this over the years. But unless Liquid profiling really improves the tweakability of profiles, I've pretty much had it with disappointing profile-pack purchases - so for me, a modeler is the way forward to expand my "tone library". Will probably work out cheaper in the long run as well!!

Awesome ,cheers! yeah me too with the fed up of dissapointing profile pack purchases.

Just out of interest, what profiles would you recommend?

I'm sure plenty have tried the later.

But I just have a feeling I would enjoy a Fractal unit as it's more like a 'traditional' Multi FX (I know traditional and Multi FX sound a bit whack together). But a Fractal unit is more a kin to a Zoom G9 or more recently a Helix etc. I just love the look of Fractal units though and whilst I like the sound of the Kemper and the ease of ease (just load up a profile), it would be cool to nerd out a bit more with tones. On the other hand though, I could sell my Kemper and buy an amp and buy real pedals - but I have a feeling an FM9 will offer me more in a much more convenient package.

So yeah, long story short - do you like Fractal stage and have you tried an FM9?

Bonus question - when would you rather use a Kemper over a Fractal unit? And visa versa

I'll be going through the FOH, but I really like to have some stage volume. So I'm eying up that Laney active 212.
It's also a nice height for the toaster to sit on.

Any other suggestions would be so greatly appreciated, cheers :)!

Hey

I have the toaster and currently going in my audio interface, via my DAW then into monitors.

But this must be adding some form (even if small) of lag/latency.

So I want to go straight from the Kemper into studio monitors, bypassing my PC completely. Just wondering if you guys use the aux in function, or do you just go via your DAW?

I have an unpowered Kemper toaster which is great, but I want to play it like a traditional amp.

I have studio monitors but they're at my desk and I would like a speaker I can use with it.

I was thinking about getting a combo amp with an FX loop and using it with the kemper, specifically a Bugera V22.

What are your thoughts on this?

Quote from RosboneMako

Welcome to the world of Electromagnetic Interference (EMI).

Every electronic device in your house creates EMI noise. There are usually governmental rules as to how much noise they can make. Some things have to make noise or they dont work. So there are exemptions.

PCs are almost always in a metal box. Because the metal box is called a Faraday Cage and keeps EMI contained inside. If your case is not closed properly or has giant holes for fans/glass/etc then EMI can escape.

For example, old PC CRT monitors put out so much magnetic noise that computer speakers had to be shielded or they would just buzz and feedback like your guitar is. LCD screens are much quieter as far as EMI. But you still see Magnetically Shielded in descriptions.

Any cable attached to your PC has voltage/currents running thru it. These create EMI and low frequency magnetic fields. So even if your case is OK, the cables are little antennas transmitting noise to the world. USB for example can be pretty bad for EMI. In the early days if you moved your mouse the EMI would couple into your cheap on-board sound card and you would hear buzzing

Any current traveling thru a wire creates a magnetic field and transmits EMI. Magnetic fields that affect your guitar are usually too low in frequency to be filtered cheaply/effectively. You will always see a big lump at the end of USB cables. This is a chunk of ferrite material used to reduce very high frequency EMI noise. It does nothing at low to high frequencies. At low freqs you need heavy expensive capacitors and inductors like you would see in your speaker crossover networks.

The more current moving thru a wire, the more EMI (larger magnetic field). So move any low voltage signals lines away from your power cords. Keep them away from power supplies (transformers=low freq EMI, Switch mode PS = high freq EMI).

Guitars are sometimes shielded (Faraday Cage) around the electronics. This is to do the opposite of the PC case. It is to keep noise out. The pickup cables are usually shielded cables and are grounded on the ground of the guitar (usually the Vol/tone Pots). There may be a metallized coating or metal tape inside the electronics chamber to shield against noise. If you modded your guitar or switched out a pickup, verify you connected all of the ground wires and kept any shielding intact.

Once you have a high gain amp/profile, you are amplifying any small noise and making it very load.

The way a faraday cage/shielding works is that it gives the EMI a path to travel to electrical ground that is outside of your normal signals. You dont want EMI currents on your signal lines, just on the outer ground. This means your devices need to be grounded. If your amp or PC are not grounded the noise has no where to go and couples (transmits) into nearby wires/circuits/etc.

Since the power lines in your house all go to the same location (the pole outside your house) any EMI on the power lines can creep into your electronics. It is not uncommon for something like a refrigerator motor, vacuum, or lighting dimmer to cause EMI in your guitar. This is also why a lightning strike destroys your equipment. A massive magnetic field or current gets on the power lines outside your house and drives up the voltage. So you need voltage suppression devices like MOVs in your outlet strips to absorb that EMI. The Pros on here will run expensive power conditioners to eliminate EMI while on stage or in expensive studios.

That is a lot of tech info that probably does not help you at all. But I tried

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Oh wow, that's really helpful - thanks so much! Yeah my PC tower has holes in the top for ventilation (I'm guessing)

So without modding my guitar, is there anyway to avoid that EMI coming from my PC to my guitar?

Thanks again for the post dude - sorry I haven't got a longer reply to it haha

Hey guys

So I did a little video to show the issue. It's definitely when I move my guitar closer to my PC. (that's my PC tower under my desk)

I'm probably coming across a real idiot but I can't work out why it's happening, but more importantly how to stop it.

It's pretty annoying because if I even want to record patches like that where there's a load of gain/fuzz etc, I need to be a way away from my PC.

Quote from paults

Feedback? Are your pickups microphonic and squealing? Or, are you playing too loud/are you too close to your speakers?

If those Rigs don't work for you, here is a link to many previous posts on the subject:

https://www.kemper-amps.com/wb…611355/&highlight=Gilmour

Quote from lightbox

Will be difficult to find a "better" profile since Andy (The Amp Factory) profiled David Gilmour's actual personal HiWatt amp that had been used on Dark Side Of The Moon and The Wall.

You should try to tackle the "feedback" problem instead. The Kemper Profiler itself doesn't create any feedback. What guitar/pickups are you using? How do you monitor? How do you record?

Quote from sthackenb

I did it with Andy‘s profile as well and I got IMHO a brilliant result. Choose a clean profile, because to my knowledge David uses clean amps, put a muffin and a treble booster in front. Rotospeaker, Delay and Reverb thereafter. Maybe Compressor before the effects. I used the FR mode on my Kabinet to have the Fane speakers and with a slightly overpowered bridge pickup on a Strat you have a real Gilmour sound!

Hey all

Thank you so much for all the responses (and everyone else that posted)

So I've done some troubleshooting, and it doesn't happen when I'm facing away from my PC, I'll record what it sounds like when I'm

home. It happens when I'm facing my PC So maybe it's my PC screen or PC causing radio feedback with the pickups in my guitar?

I have Suhr and it happens even on the humbuckers

Hey

So I bought the profiles from The Amp Factory - but the lead profile has so much feedback it's an absolute nightmare to record with.

Does anyone have any tips on getting a good Gilmour tone for tracks like Comfortably Numb/Sorrow etc? Any drives you would recommend using and in what order in the signal chain etc?

Or alternatively - a better profile I can download (or buy) than The Amp Factory version?

Cheers

Looks pretty cool, but I'm not sure it would be able to do that much that the Kemper stage can't do.

It would be quicker, better UI/connectivity - but for everything else what do you reckon?

Thanks guys

I'm going to try and sell my toaster & remote and look into buying a stage

Sorry to add late, or i was looking at the fm9?

I have the toaster & remote atm, which sounds great. I've had it for about 3 years.

I'm looking to do live stuff in 2022. Whilst I could use the toaster & remote, I would much rather use an all in one unit.

Has anyone switched from the toaster to stage, and if so, is it exactly the same but in pedal form. Or is it slower/whatever?

Quote from Finally

Do you play a reasonably similar set of tones or have to cover a lot of different styles?

Similar tones. Bluesy, light rock, jazzy etc

I currently play it through my audio interface/studio monitors, but I would like a speaker to use for live stuff.

It's a 'normal', unpowered Kemper toaster. What do I look for when it comes to speakers, passive or active?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

So I noticed today when trying to record using a profile with a few distortion modules that I get a lot of feedback when near my audio interface (which I record from). Any ideas why this is?

It's also when using a humbucker pickup. Do audio interfaces have something in them that react with coils in pickups or something?

It's loudest when my back and back of my guitar is to the audio interface, and goes away when I turn to the left 45 degrees or so. I'm sitting about 2 feet from the inteface which is a Steinberg UR22.

Any feedback (pardon the pun) on this would be great!

Thanks guys, I'll have another play tomorrow.

Quote from BuckeyeBrown

His Muffs were Cornish modded to cut out the low end flub and fine tune mids.

A simple start would be to set amp drive just below breakup, lower the bass, increase the mids and start experimenting with the muff drive vs the amp drive levels. I would then add light compression in front and then consider adding and EQ post amp. Add a simple single delay with several repeats and a big reverb mixed to not completely wash you out.

I like to go back to the amp drive after doing the above and sometimes increasing it into more drive will get you into that feedback sustain happy space that his lead tone lives on the edge of. Adjusting the Amp settings (in particular definition, clarity and compressor) can also really shape things a ton.

Any way I can mimic that on the Kemper, or do I just do it by putting an EQ block after the Muffin stomp?

Hey guys

Trying to put together some lead profiles for Floyd songs such as Comfortably Numb, Money etc. I bought the DG 1970 amp from TAF, and I'm having problems dialling in a good tone. Sources say that he uses a big muff pedal, but I find that when I add one to signal chain, it just sounds muddy and not that great. Any tips on getting a good tone?

Quote from Zappledan

I find some amps that way as well, in particular, Dumble. I go for the softer tones as well, and the rmpacheco Morgan AC20 (with a Celestion Blue cab instead of the original), and MBritts 57 Deluxe (with the same Blue cab) are my goto's for this. I do vary the gain on these to suit my needs though.

Thanks

For gain they're OK, but I find for cleans their just too hard. I completely forgot about the 'definition' setting though so maybe I'll give that a bash