Sounds like the jack. Could be a simple soldiering job. Did you try the jack on the back, after switching the settings to allow it?
Posts by ResidentCarbon
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Odd request, but can you take a picture of your monitors and post them how you have them when you play? The reason I ask is, when using my Friedman ASM 12, it sounds completely different on an amp stand, on carpet, on hardwood, and even if I stand it up, or lay it on it's side. Aside from that, the above responses would be the go-to.
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Hello!
I am wanting to change some things up, but I don't know how. Here's what I'm wanting to do:
I want to either make or buy a small enclosed tower, sliding drawers, access doors, wheels on the bottom.
Top: Zoom L20
Next level: Kemper
Following tiers: My pedals (I rarely adjust them)
The goal is to have a small tower with my gear, and have something like a Gigrig G3 to control the pedals. I'd also need to have that on the bottom drawer with two expression pedals on the same tier, and be removable. I guess the wheels could be optional and have a set of wheels on a bracket to move it. I want to keep it light enough to move by myself. Currently; I have all that gear in a huge tower, and all my pedals on a Terra 42. It all takes up a ton of space.
I can use my existing tower, but the L20 barely fits and would not be able to move on a roller drawer. It had a lot of wasted space. If any of you have made something like this setup, please send some pictures. Thank you!
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I think the battle for honest low end is always a compromise. (not sure what honest low end is, but whatever.. hah)
Imo lightbox advice is spot on. If the room has no other specific treatments, you'll see instant and dramatic audible improvements by hitting the reflection points, but low end will still be a wayward beast, especially at any kind of volume.
Typically the cross over point of your existing speakers/new subwoofer is less important than the room response to low end. Bass traps are surely going to come up, but man they need to be big to work well. The online home theater crowd is an excellent resource for that stuff. Seriously, they are the biggest nerdiest cashed up subwoofer integration dorks you'll ever meet. Its a rabbit hole though.
In short. Imo, keep the volume moderate, listen for what your existing speakers are missing, then very gently add your sub. Does the sub even help? It might, and it might not..
I will do that today. The more challenging part will be the satellites. I can't wait! As for rabbit holes; that's what we are doing now, just without the ads and other nonsense that get's in the way. Generally speaking; I've found everyone (I have actually talked here) to be helpful and knowledgeable, relative to anything I have inquired about. A bit "basic" to you all, but I also discovered that I have to set my audio source volume on a device (plugged in for practice to my mixer), and use the mixer volumes vs the audio source (iPad, phone, etc). Using the device volume raised the high, med, and low separately. I set the volume to around half on my device, and put the volume at 0db on the master track. I am hearing so much more now. I can't help but be excited.
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Just incase you wonder how to find these "first reflection points" or "first mirror points", here's a picture I found on the interwebz that might help. On top of that you can also imagine mirrors on the walls and ceiling. When you sit in your listening position, these points are where you would see your speakers in the mirror. A commonly used size of the acoustic foam absorbers is 50cm x 100cm (20" x 40").
I have that one down. After the adjustments, I had some friends sit and try it out. The sound is so much better. I may use these specific to mixing and listening, and use a pair of S1's for practice. Starting off the day great! I appreciate all of this information; truly.
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Let me give you a very simplified (yet easy to understand) example why some degree of sound treatment is key to improve the listening experience.
Let's assume your listening (ear) position is exactly 1 meter from your speaker. Let's also assume that the same sound travels 3 meters total from speaker to side wall (reflection) and back to your ear. So the difference between direct sound and reflected sound off the wall is exactly 2 meters.
This situation leads to the following effect:
- The reflection of a 1kHz sine wave will hit your ear (6 wavelengths) later than the direct sound ... but "in phase". So what you hear is direct sound PLUS reflected sound.
- The reflection of a 500Hz sound will hit your ear (3 wavelengths) later than the direct sound ... but also "in phase". So what you hear is direct sound PLUS reflected sound.
- Problem is with 750Hz. Obviously the reflection will also hit your ear later than direct sound. But this time 4.5 wavelengths late. So it is 180° out of phase. This leads to the effect of hearing direct sound MINUS reflected sound.
Now if you feel like you need to boost 750Hz, you need to keep in mind that by boosting 750Hz (e.g. via EQ) you also boost the reflection, not only the direct sound. Bottomline: EQ doesn't help at all to fix your issues.
The example above is VERY simplified, but it should help you understand how important it is to manage especially first reflections (which carry the most energy). Best way to tackle these (at low cost) is acoustic foam panels in the first reflection points.
Talking about acoustic foam:
Thickness of the acoustic foam matters. The thicker the foam is, the lower the frequencies it can absorb properly. For example 3cm foam will only handle high frequencies down to 1kHz. If you want to make sure you can handle lower frequencies as well, 10cm foam will help down to roughly 250-300Hz. In my opinion (and experience) 10cm of foam in the first reflection points already helps massively. You will instantly hear the difference and the improvement.
I will be using this. Thank you!
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I still need to pick up some sound deadening, but it is amazingly better. After going on a deep dive of the article and the above advice; I realize now that there aren't any "quick or generic settings" past the stock default. I had SO much to do that I didn't understand. You have to set the monitors and sub to the environment (which will always be different). Also, the sub was 20db too high. Adjusted the whole system down 30db. I adjusted the high and low shelf as well. Thank you all so much! I hope to be able to help some people as well.
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Quote: “I don't know how to adjust my crossovers on my sub or my monitors to work together.”
Bob's a nice man and a great mastering engineer, the author of Mastering Audio the Art and the Science.
His blog is designed to help you set up your sub and monitors without specialised equipment.
That is a great article. I adjusted my sub back to zero. I will do the pink noise blend tonight. Thank you!
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The key to good sound in a room is a good mix of absorbtion and diffusion. In a completely untreated room, reflections off walls and ceiling lead to pretty severe issues like comb filtering. A typical rule of thumb ... spend as much money for sound treatment as you have paid for your speakers (and subwoofer).
I'm willing to help but currently I'm still at work in the studio. Will follow up with some more info as soon as I can.
That is the unfortunate truth. I'm just trying to get as close to perfect as possible (given the shortcomings). Plus, I can learn all this along the way, then apply it all in the future, vs the little I can adjust now. I just can't sit and continue to use these without setting them up properly and learning how to work it all. My logic is: The more I learn, the better everything will sound as I apply it.
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I have a JBL306 and sub system. I don't use the sub at all for mixing or practice because it is way overpowering. I only have the sub engaged for casual playback. EDM and 808 is where the sub shines. My crossover is at 80hz.
That's where I have been trying to find a sweet spot. I listen to music of many genres, so trying to find a good balance between 75Hz-85Hz has been a challenge. I use the sub for practice; but never again with recording. MAN was that a learning lesson! Remixing all that; never again. The sub I think I have about dialed in; but not the monitor crossover.
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There's not much to adjust in terms of crossover. You can either engage the 85Hz Satellite Filter or not.
- If you have the Satellite Filter engaged (85Hz LoCut) and the Sub Filter set to 85Hz, the crossover frequency is 85Hz. The benefit of this is that your A7X get less work to do with the low frequencies and might do a better job handling the mids. Use the Sub Level knob to achieve a good balance of A7X vs. subwoofer.
- If you have the Satellite Filter off (FLAT), you use the full range of your A7X and the subwoofer is used to extend / augment the low end of your monitors. Use Sub Level and Sub Filter to adjust how much you want to extend / augment the overall low end response.
General advise:
Listen to quite a bit of recorded music of various genres to get a feel for how much subwoofer you actually need. Otherwise it's easy to add too much. You want to go for a well balanced listening experience, not an extreme techno club sub experience, haha.
Apologies. I meant to quote you with my response. I appreciate what you said. I'm at the "where do I go from here" moment. I am admittedly out of my depth with these; but I do need them. I want to get the best sound possible from them; but I lack the knowledge to know what to ask. I know basics; but just enough to keep things working well. I have run them at the factory settings for years. After just the above settings; I can hear a dramatic change in sound quality (in a good way). So I am here to learn whatever you have to offer. But I also want to understand why things work the way they do.
I want to learn.
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I started at 85 and adjusted the sub level accordingly. My question (at this point) is where do I set the low and high shelf, or tweeter? The room is untreated, short of a thick rug on the floor. I have the sub set out of phase (due to location).
A7X:
I tried setting the high shelf back 1 click from center, and the low shelf set 2 clicks forward. The tweeter is at 12.
Sub 10 MkII:
180 Degree phase, -10db level, 85Hz filter
I'm realistic in my expectations, but it sounds "off." I listen to mostly hard rock/ blues, so dialing it all in has left me confused.
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I'd like to offer an opinion (from a reasonable guitarist).
As prices have gone all over the map; a lot of people have gotten confused and caught up in it all. At the same time as the housing market chaos was happening, google's youtube had their "ad-pocalypse," google's spotify became the new-google's youtube for music, and people turned amazon into ebay on steroids. I say all that to say this: people think they are all business men. People started buying normal and selling high. It never works and destroys the market. My experience has taught me that most people who use social media are completely out of touch with reality (companies included, evidence based on Facebook Marketplace and the like). They get full of themselves and think things like "I deserve" etc, etc. That's when the ego and personal greed get pushed in with the price. The toilet paper model was a prime example. As soon as one moron says "rare" in a post somewhere; people take it as fact and use the "why would someone make a post or video and just lie?" People do it every day and get rich doing it.
To give you an answer to where the good prices are: everywhere. Reverb and the like are made for people who are mentally geared for instant gratification. Instant gratification comes with the high costs and chaos. Those places run off the same mentality of a pawn broker, and think of them as the last stop for an item you can't find anywhere else.
Don't EVER buy from a business that went bankrupt, but is somehow still open. Guitar Center is an easy one. Went under and filed in Nov, 2022. Has one of the most expensive "Fender Exclusive Limited Edition" Telecasters on the market as we speak. Their "Limited Edition" Telecaster is a standard $2100 Telecaster Ultra with an $700 sticker that looks like wood grain. Most people don't know that for some reason. It's in the details.
My point is: People ran out of money a while ago, but are pretending like it didn't happen. Now is not the time to buy anything unless it's from the manufacturer at the non-mark up prices. Look at stores in your area, or order factory direct. You also have to remember the amount of clones is staggering. I only buy new, from a reputable dealer, for that reason.
Finding a good deal means going out and physically looking. I got my audio setup something around $500 off because the dealer didn't want to split up a set of Adam Audio A7X's and a Sub 10 MkII. It wasn't on ANY site. Just walked in, saw it all in a box, asked the price, and left with it all. The trick is to always have a few things you are looking for, and have the funds for the most expensive item available. That way you have enough to buy any one thing on your list, when you find it. Plus, when you have the funds and you have the choices that come with it; you will make better choices and will naturally find out what is most important to you on your musical journey.
I don't condone credit cards, but I've used them. Don't.
Take time to sit and master what you have, BEFORE you buy more. The more time you fill getting better at your craft; the less time you'll spend looking for "that one last thing." No one is ever "done buying" music gear. But the ones who truly get to enjoy themselves focus on the mastery side, rather than the gear side. Let the stress slide away for a while and let's hear some stuff you've created!
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Hello. I'm just your normal "been playing forever" guy. I am not an audio engineer; I play guitar. But I'm not completely inept. I don't know how to adjust my crossovers on my sub or my monitors to work together. I have watched the videos on yt. The videos on yt are completely useless for me as they are just infomercials with regurgitated information from the outside of the box. I want to set these up correctly for the best audio. I have only found "good to my ears" advice; good for a kid, not what I am looking for. The NEW Adam Audio line is COMPLETELY made in China now; so I can't base my settings off the new models due to different internals (Adam Audio was previously made in Germany, when quality was priority). I have been running all the settings at the factory 12 o'clock on them for a couple of years now. I run all Mogami XLR for the audio setup.
The setup is routed like this:
Audio source from 3.5 to RCA -> RCA in Zoom L20 (set to 96kHz head room) XLR out -> XLR in Adam Audio Sub 10 MkII XLR out -> XLR in Adam Audio A7X
If anyone can either show me how to find the information, or why they set theirs a certain way, would be appreciated.
I play my guitar through a Friedman ASM 12, not monitors.
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Short and sweet.
I appreciate everyone for their participation on the site, as well as those who create for others. Music is my main focus in life; so I wanted to say thank you. My humble (for now) setup.
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Correction, did not get it. For one amp, matched it. Tried others, no-go. Maybe I should try out the S/PDIF? I just want a consistent mirror sound. Lol. Tall order given the parameters.
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Check that global pure cab is switched off. I think it’s set at 3 by default. It’s a soft button in one of the menus. As for Space: it’s just a preference setting. Just check what level it’s at in your headphones out, and you can try matching that value in your output to see if it makes the 2 sound closer. I don’t have my Kemper with me right now so I can’t remember exactly where the sample rate adjustment is, but looking through the output menu is probably the place. I’m sure someone can chime in with specifics.
I got it set! Stereo via main out 2 xlr to 2 tracks L20 (L20 eq set at flat), full pure cab, full character, matched volumes, mirror sounds. I set everything else to the specs you said. Thank you and thank all of you! Time to record.
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Check that global pure cab is switched off. I think it’s set at 3 by default. It’s a soft button in one of the menus. As for Space: it’s just a preference setting. Just check what level it’s at in your headphones out, and you can try matching that value in your output to see if it makes the 2 sound closer. I don’t have my Kemper with me right now so I can’t remember exactly where the sample rate adjustment is, but looking through the output menu is probably the place. I’m sure someone can chime in with specifics.
Excellent. I'll do this and get back to you. Thank you!
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Have you checked that Pure Cab is off? That will effect the sound from the main outs vs the headphones. Also, are you using Space with the headphones? Lastly, Kemper released an update a few months ago allowing you to select between 44.1-96khz so I assume it sounds best when the Kemper and interface are matched up.
I am using the newest update. The Pue Cab normally sits at zero, but I have tried cranking it up. As for Space, what should I be at? I'll be at my Kemper in a little bit to try all this out. I definitely was not aware of the rate adjustment which is great. How do I find that?
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The XLR cables made a difference, but I need further adjustments. It does sound better, but it's not quite a mirror image of each headphone jack. I'm considering jumping the Zoom L20 to 96kHz for recording to try it out, but given the Kemper's 44.1kHz output, I doubt that would make it worth losing the EQ on the L20 to record at 96. I did try out the one xlr and set it to mono, but it was too flat. All that said, the closest I've gotten so far is two tracks, KPA set to stereo.
I’ve never been happy with the sound using ts or trs cables with the main outs. A single xlr in one of the main outs has always been my preference, and I set the main out to “master mono” (or however it’s labeled) in the output menu.
