Posts by Frikeer

    That is a different matter. In a rig, you can decide which imprint to use under the CAB section. When using that rig, you will get the cab sent through the main outs, and the imprint sent through the monitor outs.


    If you'd like to get the original profiled cab, you put the Kone in FRFR mode. You will then get AMP + Cab sent through the main out, and AMP + special FRFR signal sent through the monitor out.


    So on a per rig basis, you can decide whether to keep the global Kone choice (imprints or FRFR) or to override (imprints or FRFR). This will only affect monitor out. You main out will still get amp + cab.

    I don't think this is the case based on my research. May be wrong. This is how I thought it worked (based on early YT vids). If you turn monitor cab off in order to use an imprint and then take a look at the cab in Rig Manager you will see that the cab is now set as the imprint which goes out via both the monitor out and the main outs.

    That is incorrect. With Monitor cab off and Kone on, you get Amp + Imprint through monitor out and through main out you get Amp + Cab.


    The imprints are useless without a Kabinet so it makes no sense to send them to anything but the Kone via monitor out.

    I have a 5th gen iPad which runs it just fine. If you could find a 4th gen, I doubt it would be cheaper than a 5th gen anyway so why bother!
    It also serves its initial use case of watching movies on flights, and to be a backup with iRig2 and Amplitube if all else fails.

    That’s actually a great argument. I’m in now as well!

    I mean, this only happens at pre-compression volumes for real amps, right? Wouldn’t the Kemper act in the same way? I play mostly gainy stuff but I do have a performance or two with an OD before a Fender and turning it off, I do get a drop in volume.

    Would be interesting to learn more about the rest of your setup. What did you use for splitter? What's the setup like to give y'all individual mixes?


    I think this is the way to go for me as well eventually. I already have the UEs for music listening, just need to get the rest of the stuff!

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    I had that problem on boot up a couple of times, but it never switched to it in the middle of playing.


    I talked with Kemper who suggested I send the Kemper to them but I couldn't part from it and a reboot always solved the problem.

    I know people will reach this thread in the future, looking for shorter alternatives to the standard cable, as that is what I did.


    I got a Cordial CSE2.5NH5 from Thomann a week or two ago, and for me it was the perfect replacement for bedroom use. With all the cables to and from my KPA already creating a mess, I didn't feel the need to have a massive roll of cable just lying around and this solved it nicely for me. It is a bit expensive though but what are you gonna do?

    This looks mean! I have a very nice Ritter solution in place but this seems like great fun to build which has a value in itself.


    Have you looked into solutions for only using one power cable? Is that even possible?


    What about ventilation? Heat is not a problem?

    You would need to write drivers to make the USB-Port with the rest of the Hardware. There literally hundreds of different WiFi-Sticks.

    I'm aware that USB doesn't supply enough power (but I'm spoiled with USB-C nowadays of course). And as I mentioned, I'm happy with the solution I built myself. I don't care if there is one more power cable in the back and i don't need the remote. I just wanted to give feedback, that this router does its job.

    Well, you could make an official Kemper one. Or just decide on a few with official support.

    Are you sure the 660S won't work with the Scarlett? They sound just fine with my 8i6. As I said the sound is better through the Kemper but I do think that has more to do with the Kemper Headphone amp than the headphone impedance.


    AKG K-702 have been suggested every now and then. With a 62 ohm rating they should be easier for your interface to drive.


    My Grado SR-80 sound almost as good as the 660S directly from the Kemper, and even my iPhone has no trouble powering those decently. They sound better with a proper source though of course. They aren't as flat as the Sennheisers but they are affordable and sound great.


    I'm just listening to music through my Kemper headphone amp as I'm writing this. That amp is really good.

    I just went through the process of getting Headphones primarily for the Kemper. I tried quite a few, among them both the HD600 and the HD660S, as well as a variety of BeyerDynamics after discussions here on the forum.


    Both Sennheisers are really, really nice and they beat the BDs in my opinion. Sennheisers were a bit more mellow in the highs, without losing definition or information, BDs a bit harsher. It made them more comfortable to the ears, and I could play the Sennheisers louder than the BDs without discomfort. I'm not really mixing or anything but I do know that the HD600 are somewhat of an entry-level industry standard so you're not making any mistakes there. The Kemper's headphone amp is well suited for both the HD600 and HD660S.


    I finally went with the HD660S.


    If you want to use the headphone out from your interface that could be a factor to check though. My Scarlett 8i6 seems to drive the 150 ohm HD660S just fine. They sound good. The 300 ohm HD600 will be a bit of a stretch according to the internet. I usually use the KPA as my headphone amp anyway because it sounds a wee bit sweeter through the KPA than the Scarlett.

    It sucks, but the simple fact is that it is WAY faster and cheaper to develop on iOS than Android.

    A low estimate says it takes 30% longer to build the same app in Android.

    Hehe, as soon as you release anything on Android, you end up with users in Bangladesh trying to run it on a TV from 2012 or somebody in Nicaragua trying to run your app on a McDonalds self service kiosk (Both real examples). So many edge cases, so little time.

    HD600's for me as well. Work great, no need for a headphone amp.

    Are the Sennheiser HD600s really loud enough just using the built in headphone amp? They are at 300 ohms, and people in this thread swear by them. But then I see people on 250 ohm DT 770s saying they don’t really get all the juice they want out of the Kemper and I think to myself “250 is 50 less than 300”. I don’t want anything crazy loud. If anything I’m pretty sensitive when it comes to headphone volume. But I don’t want to find myself lacking a db or two when I max out the Kemper, and I’m in the market for some reference headphones.