Posts by Alfahdj

    There is a known issue in the first batches of Stage that were released, something related to grounding problems. Check if touching the shell in the cable does anything with the sound, or if touching the chasis changes the hum, if so, the problem is a grounding problem and I am pretty sure kemper will exchange your unit. If not, then we can help you with the diagnosis, maybe a video will do wonders for that.

    I have been using FR from the beginning...not because I wanted to. I don't like tweeters with a guitar signal. I tried using a cabinet, but the speaker is 1/2 your tone. When studio profiles were created using different speakers, I had to tweak every one to match the speaker I was using.

    I gave up as it was more authentic using the FR cab in spite of the tweeter.

    I'm patiently waiting for the Kone to be released so I can hear how it's supposed to be and retire my K10.

    It intrigues me why you say you hate the tweeter, maybe you should play with low pass filter in the stack, that way you technically can prevent the tweeter from even reproducing any sound above the midrange from the woofer.

    I gigged on Friday last week and ran my little 1x12 unpowered FRFR...I still love it. It does feel different to a regular cab in that there is better spread and clearer dynamics.

    At the moment I don;t miss anything from a cab, but perhaps I need to back and try :)

    Its great we have the choice and another choice is on the way!

    What a cab does is that it works as a filter, you are forcing sound reproduction through a filter, squeezing some sound on it (composed of the cone, body and front face plus any material attached to the cab), the filtered bits get dissipated on the body of the cab that acts as a dampner, and reflected on the front mesh, thats why the presence of the cab is so different, it is not an optimal system, the reproduction is done in a very inefficient way. That is because of the limitations on past times to reproduce high amounts of sound for presentations shaped the way old amps were designed without concerning too much on the high end reproduction (take the cab section in your kemper and you will note how you arrive to fizzy town). Those vibrations are also felt trough the air pushed from the cones, transporting the sound in a directional manner.

    On the other hand, the FRFR intend to reproduce only the sound part, as the physical air and vibrations cannot be transmitted on the same way as a cab, as an FRFR is tought to have high volume with few components, that do not filter or shape the sound, therefore, no too much energy dissipation, and few air pushing (No, sound travels through air, not on it), so even with a digital cab simulation (ala powercab Line 6), you will never get that.

    Its all a game of compromises. I do enjoy the nice dynamics of FRFRs, and do not miss the high volumes for the cab to get the sweetspot and "the feel". To each their own. I am trying to get the matrix of my frien to experiment, I am making a semi FRFR with an attenuator to try to push some air in my custom made cab. Not gonna get a nice sound for sure, but I will be able to experiment on this topic, specially when I would be able to get the kones

    Low end in a woofer that size is mostly due to body resonance, so the low end its accompained with a plasticky upper low range which is a bit unpleasant, and you have no air push but a lot of vibration. Instead a Subwoofer pushes air and Isolates vibration (well, most of them) to create its lowest registers, which give you a richer lower end. Low end is not the strongest characteristic of a guitar reproduction, but a clean and punchy low end in a good sub will give you wonderful results. I dont connect the subw always, but when I do, its trough an small mixer with a frequency crossover to allow the headrush on a tripod do the 150Hz upwards, while the sub reproduces the lower end.

    If you dont use the crossover, it gets a bit muddy, mind you, still sounds good, as FRFR108 drops its dBs below 100Hz Sharply. Its just a bit of tinkering.

    For most guitar players makes sense to go back to Cabs as most of us have some lying around, it feels better due to the pushed air from the coils, and the vibration transmited in the room from the heavy mass cabinet. But thats what you lose, soundwise is not too different once you get your eq right. I added a Subwoofer to the 2 Headrush FRFR108 set, and the sound is stupidly big and powerful, it reminds me to the time I used a oversized Mesa 4x12 with a friend trough a matrix amp, it was great with merged profiles, but to get the pushing air, the volume had to go beyond my comfortable listening level for a room (Live is another story I guess). So far, my setup gives me the best of both worlds, not the amount of air for a pushed 4x12, but enough to feel the power on my feet, at a lower more comfortable volume.

    That of course is MY ideal setup, as I am not willing to deal with heavyweight cabs and high volume to get a great tone. I have a 2x12 celestion cab which would be a middle ground, but I feel Celestions are not great with all the profiles, I will surely try the Kone, as this would be a awesome proposal to solve my problem of not having a considerable amount of Cabs to mix and match. I guess some people like to match the profile to the CAB they have, but for me is the other way around. So waiting for the kone eagerly.

    Whatever you choose, its great to hear the flame is still going strong, I particularly enjoy sharing these kind of experiences, so tempts me to go back and try new/old things, I have a particularly strong hearing (at my age can hear up to 18kHz which is not common) so I bet my liking will evolve with the years.

    Happy playing :D

    I was looking into frfr options. What’s the best way to connect one of these headrush cabs...1/4 speaker cable or xlr?

    The cheapest most at hand solution, if you already have a XLR, go that way, if not 1/4" instrument cable, the only difference is that technically XLR will deliver more volume to the Speaker, but it is not needed anyway, chanel balance would make no difference at all. Speaker cable is overkill.

    I have some evo PUPs in my main guitar, I never touch the distortion sensitivity on my kemper as I enjoy the nuances and changes from guitar to guitar, and profile to profile. But clean sense, I have it in -2 on several amps, to get the degree of clean volume I want for when I roll the pot on my guitar, without having to use a compressor mid performance. Take it as a compressor without the sudden compactation of signal for the distortion part (tough I have notices some bumpiness when clear sense is turned up on overdriven or distorted profiles).

    Thanks so much, I'm waiting on a Cioks Big John to arrive and the pass-through is 2A, so it sounds like it's unlikely to work. The FRFR is being delivered to a rehearsal space in Germany ready for tour, so I've got no way of checking for the next three weeks.

    Finally, measured, in idle, 220v, the headrush consumes around 3.8A of current, and while playin and mid volume goes to 4.3A, that means the headrush uses around 750W+ of nominal real power, so there you have it, 2000W looks like marketing, at most this thing would be a 1200W peak speaker, but it indeed sounds like a louder one. Still, no luck for your pedalboard :/ wont make it with 2A

    The back panel of the Headrush indicates a T10 fuse for 120 volts, a T5 fuse for 240 volts, and a Power Consumption of 800 watts.

    So, a 10 amp current draw at 10 volts, and a 5 amp current draw at 240 volts.

    Just careful there, the rating of the fuse is to protect the circuit from overload, but it does not correspond always to the total load of the whole system, the fuse can be connected to a part of the circuit, or directly to the line input, if the later, then yes, we can expect that will be the maximum load os the line, but if not, the fuse can be measuring current in a diferentiated state of power. Anyway, 5A is way above of the connection he has on his peddalboard, so it would be a no-no

    Thanks so much, I'm waiting on a Cioks Big John to arrive and the pass-through is 2A, so it sounds like it's unlikely to work. The FRFR is being delivered to a rehearsal space in Germany ready for tour, so I've got no way of checking for the next three weeks.

    The thing here is just calculations that are made by assumptions on the data we have, will get us not really close to the real number. Nominal voltage Wattage is not displayed on the box, and nowadays, nobody knows what the heck nominal means for audio equipment "at medium volume? 3/4 volume? both inputs? only one input?", so take all with a grain of salt, and in the meanwhile, I will try to measure the speaker myself, so I can give you an idea where are you going.

    I'm struggling to find some info on the FRFR112 and hoping someone here may be able to help. Is anyone able to tell me what current draw it takes? I'm looking at a pedal power supply that has an AC pass-through and wondering if I can also get it to power a cab.

    Ok, for reference you can make the classic calculation for current, the FRFR has a supposed peak of 2000W, which would give you a peak current of 20A at 120v, and around 12A at 220V, for nominal operation, they normally operate at 60% peak power, so your nominal current would go arround 12A and 7.2A. Assuming you live in europe, then I would not connect your FRFR112 unless the passtrough supports at least 10 amp. But most passtrough connections do, so I think you would be fine.

    I can measure mine anyway, just give me a couple of days for weekend to arrive so I can check personally with my FRFR108 (has the same electric configuration to the 112, just smaller coils, same power, should be fairly the same).

    Evo PUPs are pretty hot for a passive humbucker, they sound nice on the matchless, they break lovely, as the crunch gotten from them is really creamy. Not as crystal clear as a single coil, ever, but the sound is pretty nice. I dont like active humbuckers, so I have no idea how it sounds like with them.

    I do play a schecter C1-FR with Evolutions PUPs in a Matchless DC30, sounds lovely and you can dial your tone nicely with the volume knob :D

    Thank You Bro' for this info - will keep you informed :)

    I forgot to stress out that, maybe 80% of marks tone comes from a stratocaster mid+neck position, and playing with fingers, a bit of flesh and nail on the tumb. Thats how he makes its guitar cry crispy passages when he goes for a bend or a legato. But in theory any fender amp plus chorus and verb will get you there, it just happens that for me, the MB profile (the one in the free pack) works wonders, you dont need to even reduce the gain or something else.

    PD: Chorus is used before the amp section in very low amounts on the mix ration, and this is the same as Mark's live setup.

    Advantages software wise none, hardware wise, you could use a normal guitar cabinet, if you have one, 600watt is plenty loud for rehearsal levels. If you want to go the unpowered route (I suppose you do if you plan using IRs), then get it connected to your monitors as a start, use your best pair of headphones and eq the output at prefference, and finally get a powered cabinet, being a Headrush FRFR108, Yamaha DXR-10, Line 6 Powercab 112 or others.

    Regarding recommendations:

    Sultans of swing: Go with the free Michael Britt Blackface Deluxe reverb, eq a bit the treble depending your guitar, boost mids, add a small compressor and very low saturation tube screamer, a bit of chorus, take out the legacy reverb and add a spring reverb with very few dripstone effect. That plus an strat with neck+mid pickup position and you got Sultans of swing tone.

    Some comments from my side without trying to sound agressive or anything, just in an educational note : )

    Ok, first off, there is not such thing as "texture" for tone, there is texture for music composition and appreciation, but not for tone, as texture is a combination of characteristics in an arranged piece of music.

    Second, what you describe as a richer sound, is called tone coloration, the "hi fi" sensation you feel from the amp its caused by the treble, that might be too high for the intended porpouse of the gear, an FRFR

    Dynamics come from the kemper if you are using the FRFR section of the powercab, and very few dynamics come from the amp simulation, which I did not find impressive, the "amp in the room" sound is just a bass heavy EQ with a sharp cut on the 120 Hz area that makes the sound more omnidirectional without too much boomyness (You can get the same trough some EQing with any FRFR cab).

    I did test the powercab when hunting for a FRFR, it was an instantaneous no-no for me.

    As a recommendation, you should always try gear at rehearsal volume, as the powercab sounds tiny with a band (heard it before) and starts sounding digital with the amp cab simulations at higher volumes.

    On the other side, glad you found something you liked : )

    No one here has the same ears, and I can find something displeasing, you might find it just about right for your tastes. The powercab is a fine cab for modelers and kemper, but for me it was too expensive and also bulky for my needs. Try to tame the highs from the EQ out from your kemper a bit down to get the sound as flat as possible, compare with your reference monitors, you will enjoy having more uniformity on the eq across all your profiles, as most of them are pre-eqed to a perfectly usable sound.