The only difference I'm aware of is that the newer Profilers can be slaved on the S/PDIF connection.
With older ones like yours, the Profiler needs to be "master" and the audio interface slaved.
If someone doesn't use S/PDIF it makes zero difference.
Naja, damit das hilft, muss man aber nicht nur den SPEAKER OUT des PROFILERs auf Speakon umrüsten
... UND darauf achten, dass man keine SpeakOn/TS Combo-Buchse verbaut 
Die gibt es nämlich auch und sind sehr beliebt.
My "git" signal for recording the direct signal (for reamping) is extremely hot and clipping in my daw.
I don't know which DAW you're using but (if you can) you might want to check if you're accidently boosting this particular input channel.
E.g. in Cubase you can make the input channels visible in the mixer view and actually move their faders. And whatever you do with this fader (or any potential insert effects or other channel settings) will be recorded on the corresponding audio track.
You're most welcome ... Once you get the cables, make sure you open the RME interface settings and switch "AES Format" to "Consumer" ... that's the correct setting to use S/PDIF through the AES ports.
The cables you linked are the right ones.
I own and use the RME UFX+ and that's exactly how I have (digitally) connected one of my Profilers.
PS: And I almost forgot to mention that in my studio in Kathmandu, we use the RME UFX II and Profiler exactly the same way as well. So I have basically double proof that it's correct, haha.
So, legally you can't do this without explicit consent from the vendor - you might want to send them an email, but prepare for the answer being "no".
As JAC mentioned before, it depends on the country you live in. Here in Germany you can legally sell perpetual licenses you own, even without explicit consent from the vendor or rights holder ... and no matter what the terms and conditions say.
Of course only once and you have to delete all copies you might have.
Just incase you wonder how to find these "first reflection points" or "first mirror points", here's a picture I found on the interwebz that might help. On top of that you can also imagine mirrors on the walls and ceiling. When you sit in your listening position, these points are where you would see your speakers in the mirror. A commonly used size of the acoustic foam absorbers is 50cm x 100cm (20" x 40").
Let me give you a very simplified (yet easy to understand) example why some degree of sound treatment is key to improve the listening experience.
Let's assume your listening (ear) position is exactly 1 meter from your speaker. Let's also assume that the same sound travels 3 meters total from speaker to side wall (reflection) and back to your ear. So the difference between direct sound and reflected sound off the wall is exactly 2 meters.
This situation leads to the following effect:
Now if you feel like you need to boost 750Hz, you need to keep in mind that by boosting 750Hz (e.g. via EQ) you also boost the reflection, not only the direct sound. Bottomline: EQ doesn't help at all to fix your issues.
The example above is VERY simplified, but it should help you understand how important it is to manage especially first reflections (which carry the most energy). Best way to tackle these (at low cost) is acoustic foam panels in the first reflection points.
Talking about acoustic foam:
Thickness of the acoustic foam matters. The thicker the foam is, the lower the frequencies it can absorb properly. For example 3cm foam will only handle high frequencies down to 1kHz. If you want to make sure you can handle lower frequencies as well, 10cm foam will help down to roughly 250-300Hz. In my opinion (and experience) 10cm of foam in the first reflection points already helps massively. You will instantly hear the difference and the improvement.
The key to good sound in a room is a good mix of absorbtion and diffusion. In a completely untreated room, reflections off walls and ceiling lead to pretty severe issues like comb filtering. A typical rule of thumb ... spend as much money for sound treatment as you have paid for your speakers (and subwoofer).
I'm willing to help but currently I'm still at work in the studio. Will follow up with some more info as soon as I can.
There's not much to adjust in terms of crossover. You can either engage the 85Hz Satellite Filter or not.
General advise:
Listen to quite a bit of recorded music of various genres to get a feel for how much subwoofer you actually need. Otherwise it's easy to add too much. You want to go for a well balanced listening experience, not an extreme techno club sub experience, haha.
Sehe ich das richtig, dass das über den S/PDIF-IN nicht geht?
Jupp, siehst du (leider) richtig. Aux In ausschließlich analog.
I had a quick look at the manual for you interface. It looks like the Mic/Line inputs are auto switching. If you use an XLR cable you will engage the Mic Preamp. If you use a TRS cable you will bupass the mic preamp. For connecting the Kemper you should bypass the mic preamp. Therefore, you need to use a simple instrument cable for an unbalanced signal or an XLR to TRS cable for a balanced signal.
... all of the above, plus you should check the "Space" settings. By default it's active on the headphones output (to give you a touch more room feel) but NOT on the Line Outs on the back of the Profiler.
Do I use an instrument cable or speaker cable for direct output or monitor output into Apollo solo line input, labeled as mic/line 1L
(I am not talking about the front guitar port from the Apollo solo).
No speaker cables required to hook up to your audio interface.
... It still uses its internal clock fine.
May I ask why you don't keep it that way and slave the Profiler?
Just connect 2 S/PDIF cables and you should be good to go.
I thought that setting it to auto would make the Kemper a master clock source.
"Auto" allows the Profiler to be slaved to the audio interface ... but only if both S/PDIF cables are connected!
If you want the Profiler to be Master, switch it to "Internal" and your audio interface to sync to the S/PDIF input.
Thanks for reverting back to "normal" in the latest 8.7.14 Public Beta.
Appreciate it!
They are all profiles provided by Kemper. Some of the packs if not most of them have been made by the folks mentioned. Mostly a free selection of profiles from profile packs they sell.
No user can add (or remove) anything to the "Rig Packs" folder. All you see in there is provided by Kemper.
d.h. Kemper send to X5 output - Kemper return to input.
Kemper Send -> X5 Input .... X5 Output -> Kemper Return
A few years back, I got a similar "offer" from "another" guitar brand from Vladivostok 
If someone asks you to pay whatever small amount yet makes it look like they do you a big favour ... it's a scam.
Selber pulverbeschichten? Is gar nicht schwer und Youtube hilft 
