Posts by Karajan


    Well, I tried the DR strings and after ... 3 days maybe? ... that's a no from me. They are already slightly rusty even though I washed my hands and cleaned the strings regularly. Fast-Fret makes them kinda acceptable but I don't like the feeling too much. What they did show me was that I seem to like mixed gauges, 9-46 in this case. Anyway... coated Ernie Balls (not the Paradigm but the "regular" coated ones) are next, let's see if they are any better for me :P


    Just a quick update: the coated Ernie Balls lasted for about 3 days as well before the higher strings went black and I wanted to change them again. I'm back to Elixirs and it seems my frets will have to live with the slightly higher wear.

    Thanks for the reply! I did not know this, however, it doesn't work in my (admittedly possibly unusual) case. I need to change Aux > Main and Aux > S/PDIF separately.


    I have a Komplete Audio 6 interface, which only offers direct monitoring from two channels -- I'd like to use those for bass and vocals, because I have no other way to monitor those. To be able to listen to guitar, vocals and a backing track (with the interface) at the same time, through both my monitors and headphones (not at the same time, obviously) I connected the headphones out of the interface to the Aux in of the Kemper. So far so good, I can monitor bass, guitars, vocals and Aux from my laptop through monitors or headphones connected to the Kemper. However, if I want to record something via S/PDIF I have no possibility to both listen to my monitors, connected to the Main out, and not record my backing track (or click, or vocals) on the same track as the guitars.


    I realize this is a big mess, however, Linux-compatible interfaces with 4 or more inputs (and/or S/PDIF) are rather scarce so this is the best setup I was able to come up with so far.


    Sooo... I do realize I might be the only user with this specific problem but it leads me to a point where I would still appreciate a separate Aux > S/PDIF control.

    I'm sorry to resurrect this thread, but I just ran into the same problem. I would like to record via S/PDIF (without the AUX signal) while still getting the AUX signal on my headphones. Would it be possible to add a Aux In > S/PDIF 1-10 option, just like it exists for the other outputs? It would cover both use cases with the most flexibility, I would assume.

    Yes, cost matters, however, if strings end up lasting as long as the Elixir strings did for me they are much cheaper in the end. So if the strings last 5 times as long, in my book it's okay for them to cost 5 times as much -- I still have the advantage of not having to change my strings all the time.
    Thanks for the suggestions! I ordered some (regular) DR strings, apparently they are somewhat corrosion proof too? and see where that gets me. I haven't tried a lot of strings in general, just the usual Ernie Ball and D'Addario suspects, before I settled on the Elixir ones. The Black Beauty could be another option as could the GHS Boomers, although they seem a little harder to find in my area. The Ernie Ball Paradigm are supposed to be longer lasting, but I'm not quite convinced that is much more that hype and a hefty price tag ;)


    Well, I have a few years of Elixir-experience on my guitars, however, I have no clue what one would consider "ordinary" fretwear -- I use Elixirs exclusively so I have no comparison available to me :D After a year of playing one guitar there are some quite visible dents, sooo...? And trying a different set of strings when the old ones come of doesn't really cost me, telling whether there is a difference to before will be challenging (= nigh impossibe) though, I imagine :P


    Well, I tried the DR strings and after ... 3 days maybe? ... that's a no from me. They are already slightly rusty even though I washed my hands and cleaned the strings regularly. Fast-Fret makes them kinda acceptable but I don't like the feeling too much. What they did show me was that I seem to like mixed gauges, 9-46 in this case. Anyway... coated Ernie Balls (not the Paradigm but the "regular" coated ones) are next, let's see if they are any better for me :P

    IIRC Frank tried them. Maybe he can offer some feedback. Calling @Eltzejupp.
    All I know for sure is that Paul Gilbert tested their ability to withstand bends when he first tried them. He hooked a tuner up to the headstock so we could see (in the video) the realtime readout as he tuned brand-new strings up 'til they snapped. IIRC the Paradigms managed to withstand roughly a semitone-higher stretch than "regular" Slinkys.

    Well, I saw that video (the Andertons one) and I don't doubt they might be the better choice if I ever wanted to bend, like, 6 semitones on a regular basis, but I am much more worried about resistance against corrosion because of my sweaty hands. IIRC they are supposed to be better on that front too, but by how much? Regular Slinkys don't last too long under my hands :D

    I really wish I could suggest the solution, but I don't have it. Mostly it's not the wrapped strings that are affected, but the plain strings go black, rough and even rusty very fast. So coated strings, where only the wound strings are protected are not worth the money, if you have to change them quickley - because of the plains react to sweat as bad as before. If the treatment of the plains works (anti-rust plated...), it seems they cause more fretwear.
    As said, it COULD be (should be :D ), that polymer coated plain strings are nicer to the frets - but there are not many in the market (coated ghs boomers, DR Black Beauties...?). Reviews on these strings are mixed and they seem to be not as durable as Elixir strings. If anyone has experience here, please tell us!!


    It is a question of costs for me too. What I do at the moment: Buying cheaper strings I like (Fender...) in multi-packs and online, using Kyser string cleaner - and wash my hands with ph-level neutral 5,5 soap before playing.


    And I accept ordinary fretwear. Don't panic - on perfect new frets slight wear can already look pretty bad, but it usually looks much worse than it actually is!!

    Yes, cost matters, however, if strings end up lasting as long as the Elixir strings did for me they are much cheaper in the end. So if the strings last 5 times as long, in my book it's okay for them to cost 5 times as much -- I still have the advantage of not having to change my strings all the time.


    Thanks for the suggestions! I ordered some (regular) DR strings, apparently they are somewhat corrosion proof too? and see where that gets me. I haven't tried a lot of strings in general, just the usual Ernie Ball and D'Addario suspects, before I settled on the Elixir ones. The Black Beauty could be another option as could the GHS Boomers, although they seem a little harder to find in my area. The Ernie Ball Paradigm are supposed to be longer lasting, but I'm not quite convinced that is much more that hype and a hefty price tag ;)


    Well, I have a few years of Elixir-experience on my guitars, however, I have no clue what one would consider "ordinary" fretwear -- I use Elixirs exclusively so I have no comparison available to me :D After a year of playing one guitar there are some quite visible dents, sooo...? And trying a different set of strings when the old ones come of doesn't really cost me, telling whether there is a difference to before will be challenging (= nigh impossibe) though, I imagine :P


    Thanks for your insight! :)


    You are right, I doubt we'll get some kind of official statement on this, but the combined experiences sound pretty convincing ... too bad, I really like those strings. :/


    My problem is this: I recently got a new guitar with pleked non-SS frets and the setup feels amazing. Naturally, I would really prefer preserving this state as long as possible. Since you seem to have some experience with these fretwear problems: could you suggest an alternative string that is protected against sweaty hands like mine, but is easier on the frets?

    Elixir plain strings cause a lot more fretwear than regular tin plated strings - cause of the harder "anti-rust" treatment, I guess. That's why I avoid them.


    Fender nickel-plated sound the same as D'Addario XL (same factory?), but are cheaper. Also cheap and good (if you have many guitars) are Darco strings - I learnt about them from a statement of Gregor Hilden. All these are in the same ballpark soundwise.

    Is this your personal experience or do you have some kind of additional source for this?


    I use Elixir strings and I really like them (I have similar problems as suseguitar) and I have noticed some fretwear under the b-string after about a year on a PRS guitar. I just always assumed this was due to my crappy technique :P I noticed the coating getting worn of the d-string especially so I would assume it's rather soft. So is this different for the plain strings, explaining the higher wear of the frets?

    Yes, they are Kemper profiles, but without an amp, so you will need to combine the cab with another profile as Joptunes said. You can't use these with something that uses IRs, those are different. With the Cabmaker you can convert IRs to Kemper-cabs, but not the other way around.

    The second someone starts ranting about a commercial pack or Profiler, the thread will be moved. The mods are all over this one, so IMHO the thread, like so many others, will be treading on thin ice from the get-go. We can't control others' postings, and all it takes is one person to "go there", something that has been quite-innocently-done in the past, and... viola! Thread moved.

    I think if it's so specifically stated that only free profiles should be listed, it would make much more sense for the mods to remove "misbehaving" posts that to move the thread ... let's hope they see it the same way ;)


    By the way, what about profiles by commercial makers that are freely available, as part of a sampler pack, for example? I like and use a lot of them (and only pay if there is something really outstanding that I can justify spending my money for). One could consider talking about those as advertisement (you argue they are only posting those be to win customers for the paid pack) or as fair game to post them here (considering those threads are allowed to be posted in the Free Rigs forum, so they seem to be accepted as free profiles). To make it even more complex, there are some commerical profilers who will, additionally to their samplers, offer free profiles where there is no paid pack behind it, so you couldn't really count those as ads either. And what about rig packs? Those are as free as it gets but one could still easily argue those to be an advertisement for the profiler. Mods, clarification, please? :P


    Okay, for those, who haven't been around too long, I'll list everyones favorite More Gain AC20 and the 1971 Golub Mars profiles (both to be found in the Rig Exchange or the factory content) and I'll add a vote to Tim Owens HAWP profiles. I'll hold back on the rig pack and sampler ones until I know whether or not posting these would push me into eternal hell ;) I use all profiles with Humbuckers, but with the clean profiles I like the tone of the middle position with the humbuckers split.

    While I'm don't think you can create a profile of just a cab, you can share just the cab portion of the rig as presets, if that is what you were asking. You can load them into the Kemper just as you would Rigs. For example the free cabs by TillS (some with G12H30 in them) seem to be well liked by the community.

    Vielleicht könnten die Mods noch mal klären, wie das in den Sprachen-Foren aussieht? Ich habe nicht mal mitbekommen, dass scheinbar nur in Third-Party-Threads über solche Rigs geredet werden darf, wenn ich euch hier richtig verstanden habe. Das hieße ja, dass Leute, die kaum oder kein Englisch können (zumindest in Deutschland vielleicht nicht sooo häufig, aber vielleicht in anderen Ländern?) sich überhaupt nicht über kommerzielle Rigs in diesem Forum austauschen können?

    "Ein Kondensator setzt dem Stromfluss aufgrund seiner begrenzten Kapazität immer einen Widerstand entgegen. Dieser Widerstand wird kapazitiver Widerstand genannt.Formelzeichen:Einheit:XC1 Ohm (1 Ω )

    Um Sharrys Ausführungen noch zu ergänzen: Ja, kapazitive Widerstände (Kondensatoren) und induktive Widerstände (Spulen, zum Beispiel in unseren heiß geliebten Pickups) werden zwar so genannt, haben aber nichts mit den "normalen" ich-mache-nur-den-Strom-schwächer Widerständen zu tun. ;)

    Kondensatoren und Widerstände sind elektronische Bauteile mit verschiedenen Funktionen. Insofern war die Nachfrage schon sinnvoll.
    Aber wie wir gesehen haben, es gibt Applikationen für den Einsatz von Widerständen.

    Vielen Dank erst mal für die ganzen Antworten und, ja, gut, dass wir noch mal drüber geredet haben :D Dass man mit Kondensatoren ein bisschen was verändern kann (... eigentlich ja aber auch nur am Tone-Poti und mit einer Treble-Bleed-Schaltung?) hatte ich schon gehört, mit Widerständen war mir das aber neu (außer eben wenn man das gesplittete Signal etwas lauter und etwas mehr wie ein Humbucker klingen lassen möchte).


    Aber da das ja auch immer nur aktiv ist, wenn man entweder seinen Humbucker splittet oder am Tone Poti dreht, hieße das ja zusammengefasst, dass sich der "Grundton" eines Pickups durch solche Bauteile ja nicht ändern lässt? Oder gibt es da noch pfiffige Schaltungen, die ich nicht kenne?

    Zumal man mit Widerständen extrem viel verändern kann und dann wird es erst recht total unübersichtlich. :/
    Vielleicht reicht es ja bei Dir auch aus erst mal für ein paar Pfennige Widerstände aufzulöten und durchzupobieren. Evtl. ist dann schon alles gut? :huh:

    Entschuldigt, dass ich hier kurz mal eine Zwischenfrage einwerfe: Was hat es mit den Widerständen auf sich, davon habe ich bisher noch nichts gehört. Geht es darum den Output zu verringern? Oder Teile des Spilt-Signals zu erden, a la PRS?

    Okay, I didn't know that "presets" themselves aren't really a thing, I just assumed it because it was the first thing that sprung to my mind when trying to explain these phenomenons.


    I did some more testing and I think I found the issue. These issues only exist when using Module D, which explains why I was getting differing results, which led me to believe that presets might have something to do with it. However, now the problem is reliably reproducible on my machine.
    Here are the steps:
    - open up Module D on a profile
    - dial in a Green Scream or a Fuzz DS (via a preset or via the Type button)
    - set the Mix lower than 100% and the Tone on the GS lower than 5.0
    - save as a preset
    - load that preset on any Module (not just D)
    Results on my machine:
    - the Mix is set to 100%
    - the Tone of the GS is doubled with a maximum of 10.0


    As best to my knowledge, the other Modules work fine.

    I think if you profile something and don't change anything it just takes the info of whatever profile was used before (in this case a Britt profile), so rather laziness than secrecy I would guess ;)


    And as to who made it ... Rabea and Danish Pete, according to



    at 4:47.

    The question that would be interesting to me is: can you load up a preset that you have made before, change it slightly and save it under a slightly different name? Because that is the thing which is not working for me (well, it works but it changes my Green Scream parameters). Yes, I can create a preset from fresh which works (at least sometimes, I guess, no idea what's going on there), but then I have to retype the whole preset name for a small change, which I try to avoid. If there was a "Replace/Rename" option, this wouldn't be a problem.