It's too bad the BAM200 has no loop jacks. Has anyone run a frequency response sweep to see if there's a control setup that yields a flat response?
VT, TC Electronic may respond to you question or offer a setting that will yield the best fit curve for a flat response. hth.
BobW
Sbomb,
Consider Paults suggested on the series cable or box . It also gives you the option to use only one cab for a rehearsal or smaller venue as well. Fwiw, the impedance of a speaker is constantly changing depending on the amp output frequency at that time, and does not always correspond to the measured DC Ohmic value.
Cdestino, Try using a wired mouse and keyboard. I have had issues in the past using a wireless mouse. You don't really need the additional RF anyway.
Enjoy!
Glad that all is well and with the Kemper DI.
Hey rik777, If you measured the dimensions of the Remote and contact a local seamstress, they could certainly make one for you at a reasonable cost. I have considered the same thing to keep dust off of mine when not in use.
If you plan to use the Remote with the cover on, then I suggest the seamstress use a lighter/flexible gauge plastic to operate the footswitches easier.
Or if this is just for temporary use, you may be able to locate poly bags approx. 12" x 24" that would slip over the entire remote. fwiw, I usually carry the lawn/leaf type bags to cover my gear if rain is imminent.
I built a mounting bracket whenever using the Headrush cab. It was made from 1"x 3" wood strips using glue and screws and bolts to the top 17mm holes on the top of the cab. It provides enough side bracing to hold the 4U rack in place.
Also it tilts back a bit with a 1" x 3" piece of wood. This also provides a better view of the Kemper. At my age this is an easy setup w/ less load in. I simply hand tighten the bracket onto the cab and tilt it back after wiring. The mounting bracket has self stick padding so the 4U rack has a bit of protection and dampening.
The rear cover of the rack mount also is used to store the remote during load in/out.
I use my power rack with a Thiele cab loaded w/ an EVM 12L or turn off the power amp and run it thru a Headrush FRFR 112. Both options depend on the venue and stage real estate available.
I suggest you contact the Kemper support team.
Raoul, Glad you are up and running again. Congrats to the Kemper team!
Let’s just say I’m a very happy person
Raoul, I am very curious. Did they mention the cause/issue and the fix?
Thanks Bob
How can I reduce the return level further than -32dB?
Read post #2
You have 2 choices:
1). If you have no spare parts and are not familiar with building your own, then your best option is to buy an inline attenuator (Hosa or similar) as flcmcya suggested.
2). If you want to build your own, as I suggested, then you simply dial in the amount of attenuation you want. I own an audio repair business, and usually have spare parts to build what is needed.
There is nothing wrong with the Kemper DI box. It is a passive unit and Can handle up to 500W, but the output signal is a fixed percentage of the amp power output. If you don't want to adjust the return signal at the Kemper, then you'll need to adjust it inline between the DI box and the Kemper. A potentiometer would work .
Thanks for sharing!
Leonheart, Congrats on the Kemper and Headrush.
I also have the same setup, but occasionally use a Thiele cab loaded w/ an EVM 12L.
The only thing I change on the profiler when using the Headrush cab is to lower the Monitor Output EQ Bass setting to a -0.5. (See Output Section Page 3 of 7)
It took just enough bass out for my ears. Your mileage may vary.
Here is something interesting for the DIYers. After a review of the Dayton Audio (DA) PPA800D pwr amp from Parts Express. vs the Xitone pwr amp. They appear to be the same plate amp. The PPA800 has a DSP shaping function, capable of shaping and compensating for most cab/speaker deficiencies via the USB port. Xitone most likely had DA preset the DSP for their cab and had no need for the USB port.
Something to consider:
Xitone FRFR Active Wedge ~ $899
Dayton Audio PPA800D ~ $279
Eminence Beta-12CX ~$85
Eminence PSD2002-8 ~$75
cab/wedge materials ~$200
Total ~$640 + free labor
I am not advocating either selection, just illustrating the options for anyone interested in a DIY frfr pwr cab.
Currently I use either a Headrush cab or a Thiele cab loaded w/ an EVM12L, depending on the gig.
Cheers. 
I have a shallow 4U SKB that fits the remote in the back using Velcro to secure the remote to the back cover. Works great! The only reason I went w z/ a 4U is for stowing cables.
Ewrath, Unfortunately the output of the Kemper amp, a Class D or G type amp, is most likely blown and-not a simple fuse issue. It may have taken out the bass amp output as well.
Finally has a great suggestion:
If it's going to cost significant money to fix I'd go for a stereo power amp so you can run stereo guitar cabs without a PA or powered speakers.
What happened?
Bummer!
I guess this will be a short turnaround though.
I cannot imagine it will be very expensive either.
Ingolf,
Sounds like it's either the input fuse to the power amp or a swap out of the power amp module. An easy repair either way. FWIW, the B&O power modules are almost bullet proof.
B&O IcePower modules have replaceable fuses, it may be something as simple as swapping out the 5mm fuse. If it were me I'd go as far as swapping out the power amp module, but I have experience with this type of thing.
7 years means it's out of warranty. so checking the fuse won't cost you anything. However if you're not comfortable opening it up and testing the fuse, then DO NOT attempt it. Also anything beyond that, means the great folks at Kemper may not want to work with it if you go further.
I believe this is the power amp module. If it isn't, then it is very similar. The fuse on this module is located on the far bottom left side of the board. Since Ceramic fuses cannot be checked visually, you will need a multimeter. Unplug the amp from any power source before attempting this. Lifting one side of the fuse or taking it out and measuring the Ohmic value will indicate if it's open (blown) or shorted (good fuse). HTH
