Another thing i figured out is: When you are searching for something in rig exchange/local-folder
I crashed RM yesterday trying to search for something that it had no results for. But I dont know if that is real reason it crashed. It may have been trying to search as I typed each character and just got confused. Like it was mid search then started a new search...?
Turning the definition parameter down, for me, it gives the feeling of looseness of the distortion.
Yes for 99.5% of high gain profiles you want the definition set to 10. This removes bass from being sent into the AMP section. Having the bass freqs being amplified/distorted creates that loose flubby sound. So you focus the distortion in the higher frequency. You can also add an EQ before the amp and adjust the distortion color/voice even more. For example you may want a boost around 400-800 Hz for some thickness and turn the HIGH up for more bite.
If the Distortion has too much grit/hair (generically sounds too distorted) you will want to adjust the CLARITY setting. More CLARITY expands the waveform a little so you quiet the mid volume distortion. So you get less Buzz Saw and more articulated notes. If you add a lot of CLARITY you will want to add a little more GAIN to make up for the cuts you just made.
If you are going for full-on death metal you will want to add a little of the clean sound with the AMP MIX. It clears up the sound and adds mid freq thickness that you need when detuned heavily. Sometimes reducing the AMP GAIN and adding a boost/dist lets you color up the clean signal a little so you are not mixing a pure clean and AMP signal. But for super high gain stuff the pure clean signal actually works really well.
And adding a LOT of the clean signal in MIX actually will move a high gain amp into super cool sounding crunch or blues tone.
Having an EQ before the amp also lets you adjust the clean pure signal as well.
For strong metal I may also alter the CABINET Hi/Low settings. Usually turning the LOW down a little and the HI up to around +.3. The LOW setting is not super touchy. The high setting is more touchy as it covers a lot more frequency range so small changes are needed. I tweak the HI until it moves the speaker resonance into a frequency I want to get more bite/clarity. Reducing the CHARACTER setting may reduce the speaker resonant frequencies and add more high end also. Always worth a quick check.
For more of a stack on 11 sound I add a TREBLE BOOSTER after the AMP. Not so great for super high gain but for all other amps styles it can really help. I set the MIX to 50% and adjust the tone to help push the frequency you want. Then I adjust the MIX up from 0 until you get a nice even frequency response.
All I can find are printer cables.
Is that what everyone uses? yes looks like it is.
Yes.
When I first started using RM (1-2 months ago and on Windows 10) I would get this message every once in a while.
For me, I would get the message if I started editing a profile in the RIG EXCHANGE. Now I save it to the profiler and then start editing it. I think the error came after editing then saving the edited copy to the profiler. I cant recall exactly and the Kemper is behind me when I am editing so I dont notice the error screen right away.
Another thing to look at is sometimes it takes a few seconds for RM to complete the task you are asking it to do. So wait for the BUSY animations to stop before clicking stuff. Like saying DUPLICATE or STORE may take a second or two.
The last patch mentioned something about a USB fix. I dont recall. But I have not seen the USB error screen for a long time now so I dont know if it helped or not.
I would ignore the name of the amp they are modeling and use your ears to find one that is close to what you want and adjust from there.
Great work and write up! I agree with the quote above. Some random amp on the rig exchange may sound closer to the amp tone you are trying to get. It is important to not get hung up on "this profile is from amp X" sometimes. Even a lot of the top profilers may use a similar amp when profiling a certain famous amp tone.
As for getting other modeling units. I used to always play my Line6 stuff thru my marshall set on a clean tone. As an FRFR type of situation. Now I am really looking forward to running the Line6 stuff into the front end of the Kemper set to some cool low gain amps. Or even high gain amps with the AMP MIX setting being adjusted for different tones.
I would take a foot stomp that only did one profile for $100 so I could profile the crazy concoctions I have created on my big Kemper 
I have successfully profiled a few Line6 and a Behringer modeling amps by using normal 1/4" TR unbalanced guitar cords.
It almost sounds like you are using TRS balanced cables and the Kemper is using a microphone level. The line level signal will be way too loud.
I would try normal cables and/or connect to a mixer or some other line level device so you can see and control the volume more.
Silly question: The point of a DI is to get the tone (from the complex impedance of the speaker) in the signal. So is a profile from a DI considered direct? Since it will be colored and sound like the speaker is in the profile? Asking for a friend 
EDIT: Ahhhh I read the other post about DIs. So some DIs let you turn off the speaker influence. I am too old. These youngsters and their fancy softwares with built in IRs confuse me. In my day the whole point of the IR was to get the speaker sound without a mic. But now it is to get the amp sound including the output stages.
It always pays to read posts on here even if not Kemper related.
Probably the best trick to getting a decent tone is to use a LOOPER so you can EQ on the fly while something is playing.
Doing this today I found another way to set the TREBLE BOOSTER(TB). Many times a profile sounds like it is missing some mid to high presence and adding the treble booster seems to fix it. Makes it sound smoother, present, and mix ready. The TB acts like a parametric EQ with some gain to it. So it helps fill in the missing freqs real nice and augments the distortion.
- Set the mix to 50%.
- Set the tone to 0 and slowly raise it until you hear the sound start to sound more present and responsive. Or sounds better to your ear.
- Reduce the mix to reduce the new frequency range you just added and get a better overall balance of tone.
- As usual a little bass boost to bring the bass in to line with the new mid-high boost may be needed.
Some day I wish to achieve a mastery of this insane device like all you Zen masters out there.
I have not played with it but can venture a guess:
- If using modulation, one echo may be colored before the other echo.
- The Kemper may be altering the frequency response of L/R to create more of a STEREO feel.
Maybe think of it as connecting a Master to a Master. USB needs to be a Master to Slave connection. Too many cooks in the kitchen is always bad
My guess is SPDIF is a completely Digital system. So the Kemper sound is converted to digital info then sent to your interface. The interface analog preamps are never used because the signal is digital thru the whole process.
Using the OUTPUT jacks means the digital data from the Kemper is converted to analog then sent to the interface. The interface preamps then read the analog data and convert it to digital information.
DIGITAL:
- Preferred method.
- No noise added.
- Signal tone/color/sound is not changed.
ANALOG:
- Tiny distortion added in the Digital -> Analog conversion then Analog -> Digital conversion.
- Noise/Hiss added from the low level analog signals.
- Possible noise added from Ground Loops.
- Signal tone/color/sound is altered by the preamps frequency response.
Most people will not hear the changes in tone from SPDIF to Analog. But some will. And many may hear the added noise.
Ground Loops come from having equipment connected to different power sources and noise that is trying to get to ground travels on the cables connecting these devices. That is why some devices have a Ground Lift switch. Digital data is not affected by this as the GL noise is usually a very small voltage.
Analog noise is present in the world due to the physics of nature. And this noise gets into the analog signal and is amplified by the preamp in your interface. This can just be as simple as noise transmitting from a low frequency light/electronic system near you to a high frequency radio/television/communication signal miles away. So digital only paths are always the better method for noise.
Then you learn to use a treble boost post-stack, a few EQ tricks, ...
Sage advice.
Treble booster setup:
Tone: 1.0-2.5
Mix: 10%-100% depending on amp gain. 10%-20% for High gain.
This profile was the "S.Mehl Amp Lead" profile which is a stock profile that came with the Kemper.
Awesome! Thanks Joe!
unclemar, Monkey_Man and flyingheelhook are in the drawing so far... I will wait a couple days more... 
Would there be any value in saying what Kemper profiles were used on songs in this section of the forum? Seems like that is what it was meant for.
Either way, very cool tune Joe! Didnt mean to detract from your post 
He'd definitely refund you or at the very least allow you to use the credit at his store, mate.
I am not going to bug him for a few dollars. If it was an expensive pack I probably would. Got it black friday so I basically paid normal price for two copies. No big deal.
I just purchased some MBritt stuff and bought the 5150 pack twice. So I have 2 copies. Thinking of sending the ZIP file to someone here if they want it? Is that cool to do?
I am not going to try for a refund because MBritt rules and I like giving him business. Was almost thinking of buying a pack each week and doing a raffle 
This sounds like a monitoring issue. You need to mute or NOT monitor the original Kemper sound coming into the DAW. There may be options in the Focusrite driver that let you turn on/off monitoring for certain channels.
The problem is not Kemper related.
You are playing back two separate sounds:
- Kemper live sound coming into your Focusrites inputs.
- Kemper signal fed thru the IR and played thru the DAW.
Need to mute the live sound playback.
Anyone who can do a snot rocket in time with the song must be a god... 1:39
Awesome! Will check it out.
