Posts by schludi

    E means „edited“.

    The Rig or Performance has been edited since you‘ve loaded it.

    If you lock something, this counts as „editing“, since it does not match the stored version anymore directly after loading.

    If it is „always on“ you probably have locked something. You can locate the locked section by keeping the LOCK key pressed and check the LEDs.

    Wouldn't it be helpful if the display could distinguish between "something is locked" (L) and "at least one parameter has been edited" (E).

    If both apply "L/E" could be displayed

    Das geht im Prinzip garnicht, da beim Sustainiac die Saiten durch einen Elektromagneten zu schwingen gebracht werden,
    ähnlich der Anregung die du hast wenn ein Speaker deine Gitarre zum schwingen anregt (Akustische Rückkopplung) .
    Diese Rückkopplung ist mechanisch daher werden nur die Resonanzfrequenzen der Gitarre rückgekoppelt.
    Bei den elektrischen Feedback Effekten wird versucht dies Rückkopplung elektronisch zu produzieren, hierzu werden nur bestimmte Frequenzen rückgekoppelt und es muss eine zeitliche Verzögerung von 2 bis 5 ms in die Rückkoppelschleife um den Abstand zum Cab zu simulieren.

    naja... soooo unmöglich ist das auch wieder nicht, auch wenn das technische Prinzip dahinter ein völlig anderes ist.

    Der DigiTech FreqOut z.B. liefert schon durchaus vorzeigbare Ergebnisse:

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    Und ich gebe die Hoffnung nicht auf, dass das so oder ähnlich mal im Kemper verfügbar sein wird ;)

    Just wondering: why use a pure booster and take up a slot when you can just morph the rig volume knob? Unless the booster is very last, it will affect whatever is after it. The rig volume won't.

    I wrote "in the past" because these was what I did in the pre-morphing-time (yes, there had been times when there was no morphing available ;) ).

    Since morphing is available, that's what I use for solo-boosting (as I already wrote above ;) )

    heightened by the fact he was playing through a 1 x12 Marshall cheapy combo,..

    In my opinion neither price, nor size, nor brand are reliable indicators of whether someone is a professional or a good guitarist.

    I have already experienced many counter-examples (in both directions).

    Back to the topic:

    Yes, it depends (as previous speakers have written) on many factors, such as style of music, number of guitar players, etc.

    In the past I used to have a pure booster after the stack section, set (I think) to about +3 dB.

    Meanwhile I switch to solo via morphing.

    But not only by increasing the volume, but also changing the tone control (especially boosting the mids) to be able to take the frequency place of the "missing singer".

    So in my opinion it's not only a question of volume, but also of frequencies.

    The verification I do from time to time through live recordings, from which I get a good impression afterwards whether I have to readjust.

    I don't make any adjustments directly before the gigs.

    To me, this is just a well recorded Session of a very talented guitar player.

    I don't think that it makes any difference whether he played through a real amp (like Friedman or whatever) or through a Kemper.

    Imho he could play a crap guitar through a crap amp and would still sound great (at least as long as the guitar is in tune ;) )

    Wouldn't it be nice if your pedal started at "127" value for some rigs and "0" for others. When playing live, I always have to move the pedal back and forth before starting a song because even though the pedal is at toe position, it defaults to value "0" when you first switch to a performance. Eg: Volume to Pitch set at an octave lower will always start an octave lower rather than starting in pitch, which I would prefer.

    ... or maybe also in between.

    Think of the sweet spot of a WahWah in the middle position.

    You wouldn't even need a assigned wah-pedal to get the perfect position.

    I took a backup to USB, turned off the Kemper and held down the first button near the LCD and then powered the Kemper back on until I ended up in maintence mode. There I completed a factory reset and once completed I restored the backup.

    there are so many buttons near the LCD ;)
    Does it have a label?

    Or is it one of the soft-buttons above the LCD?

    Very true and an important point for me.

    The thing is: in the practice room (hard, vibration-free floor) everything is perfect and works always the way I want it to (with Bypass@Stop).

    Typically, however, many stages are not vibration-free, especially at big gigs.

    And it is exactly there (when it becomes important) that the WahWah is activated again and again due to the vibrations of the floor, even if it is not desired.

    I have the same problem here.

    Firmware 7.1.18 PB.

    I tried two different pedals (Mission EP1-KP, Yamaha (unknown type)).

    Both reacted in the same way: In a way it works, but here and there it hangs completely for about a second and then catches up again.

    Calibrating did not help.

    It makes no difference whether the pedal is plugged into the remote or the head.

    Type 1 or Type 2 makes no difference either.

    With this behavior, it is currently not possible to use the pedals properly :(

    ps: just noticed, this only happens in performance mode. Browser mode works ok.

    Thank you so much for reenabling the "autoload" function in RM. Missed it so much.

    Upon booting, the Performance Name is wrong, it is showing the name of a different performance. The individual slots are named from the referenced (named) Performance. However, the underlying Performance is correct, the right rigs are loaded in the right spots, it’s that the UI is referencing a different performance.

    same here :-/


    I morph in a boost in volume, mids and sometimes a click of gain. Delay and sometimes an effect also get morphed in.

    Same here.

    And I love the Remote "Tap" button as the Morph button (since it's on the edge and easy to hit).


    The Rig button itself is not morphing (Option: Rig Button Morph: off), so pressing the Rig button brings always the "standard" sound.

    The only thing I'm missing: would be nice, if the "Tab"-Led next to my "Solo"-button would indicate active/not active.

    The Looper is very practical when it comes to sound fine-tuning. Make sure the Looper location is set to "Input" (system menu), record a typical lick and let it run endlessly.

    Now you can turn and press knobs with both hands and adjust your sound.

    And: the input is constant by definition.