Posts by Michael_dk

    I'm trying to figure out if this post is directed at Kemper or the automotive industry

    I wonder - are you connected via an USB hub, or is the USB cable connected directly to the computer and the Kemper?

    If it were ‘just’ an EQ, then people would’ve been using EQs to do the same thing for ages.


    At least to my ear…..that’s not what’s going on.

    On second thought I suspect that you're right.


    For reference, here's what the manual states in full:


    ...which doesn't explain much in the way of how the specific definition control relates to the sound or how it works - it first talks about the control in very vague terms, than goes on to describe the sounds of actual amps - without really linking the two (or even explaining how a profile reacts to changes to the control, higher or lower).

    A harmonic is, by definition (no pun) a clean multiple of the fundamental (2, 3, 4, 5.....etc). Overtones can be any frequency, so long as its above the fundamental. So, a harmonic is an overtone, but an overtone doesn't have to be a harmonic.

    Good point.

    Though in the description above I'd guess that both words should be "overtone", since I'd assume that an amp - vintage or modern - has no way of discerning whether something is an overtone or a harmonic.

    Difference between harmonics and overtones aside (which I think are one and the same), I've always understood it like this:

    Higher definition - more lower frequencies are rolled off before signal is being fed into the overdrive/distorting part of the signal processing;

    Lower definition - less roll-off of lower frequencies, meaning the overdrive or distortion will be driven (ha ha) mostly by the lower frequencies, as these lower frequencies have more energy per "frequency band". Which can lead to muddiness if overdone.

    I think of it as a tilt EQ applied to the distortion generator (for lack of better terminology).

    All of the above is speculation on my part.

    Should be here in the next day or two. Bought one that was Faded Blue in September but wasn't able to play it for a few weeks because of a self inflicted palm injury.

    Once I had the opportunity to play it, I liked it enough that I decided to sell the three electric guitars I had and get another 24-08. I liked the others, especially the EBMM Cutlass, but I don't do well switching from one neck profile to another, shouldn't be an issue now.

    NOICE :)


    Don't leave them hanging in the sunlight. At least some years ago (and I don't think it has changed, I could be wrong), the blue colours faded awfully much over time.

    What I thought the presenter was really saying is that we should be wary of just automatically using a HPF at a set frequency on every track (because youtube “experts” say so). This would have the danger of creating a significant buildup of unwanted frequencies at the crossover point. Whereas using your ears and applying HPF where required at the appropriate frequency for that specific signal would avoid this as you would have little boosts in many diff places.

    That's also what I got from it :)

    the thing is: if for example you you make a high pass at 80hz, you are also boosting around 80hz +3db

    Well, it depends on the slope of the filter. Might be more, or it might be less.


    I wouldn't say this is a "problem" of high pass filtering, just the way they work. It can be advantageous or disadvantageous. This is why we mix with our ears, not our eyes :)

    Whether you morph via generic gain or the LP gain control - you'd use your ears, I assume, not the numbers on the display?

    Using the generic gain for morphing is not a "quirky workaround".