Yeah, ofcourse in the end I will tweak and use my ears.. I just need to get the technical stuff down before I start to tweak. So I know what i'm touching, and what parameters was made for what.
What is "full range" compared to imprints and cabs? I see on the forums that some people say that you need to leave cab to "on", which makes no sense to me if you're gonna use imprints? Manual wasn't so clear on that part
Thanks guys. So I was not far off in my absumptions that imprints replaces cabs in this matter. "By activating Monitor Cab Off, you suppress the cabinet simulation selectively for the MONITOR OUTPUT", thanks for referring me to the correct page of the main manual!
I've been looking to buy a Kemper Kabinet for days now, to pair with my Kemper Stage. I see the buzzword "imprints" and "Kone", but I don't understand what this means. In my head I am guessing that you cannot use cab simulation with the Kabinet, and that "imprints" is the one taking over for that? That we need to use "direct profiles" in conjunction with "imprints" instead of "cab"? Have I got this correctly?
Thanks! I think it's possible to receive sound from within the module, I just can't figure out why.. I'm sure I read it somewhere, but I can't find that article again. I'd rather not have any more cables than I already have
EDIT: I actually found out! After months of wanting to do this! I just had to change USB mode from GENERIC to Vendor! Then TD17 came up as an ASIO alternative in the SD3 audio-routing menu! This is very strange! In a good way, ofcourse
Is this possible somehow? I'm using the TD17KVX as a trigger for Superior Drummer 3, but I have a spesific usecase where I need to listen to Superior Drummer 3 from within the TD17 module.. Is it possible to I/O SD3 back to the module from my PC?
You can change the batterie very easy
inside it's a CR2 or CR123A Li-ion 3,6V Batterie
CR123A H: 34.5 mm Ø: 17 mm
CR2 H: 27 mm Ø: 15.6 mm
Okay I've decided to try to swap this one. Do you know if both of these batteries you mentioned will work?
V8guitar Thanks! Now I understand!
paults problem with those higher ends is that they are cumbersome to use at home. I have a setup here where I tell Google to turn on my PA and mixer table, and then I just pick up the guitar and start to play. So I need a set that has integrated batteries with the jack itself.
Ruefus Yes you're right. I expect to have to learn how to swap the batteries myself. The G10 we'd have to remove the cap on the batteries, and it's said in the video to not try this unless we know what we're doing, so it's a high risk especially for someone inexperienced like me.
I was looking at the shape of the Sennheiser XSW-D and it looked more like something that could be more easily swapped
And then I found this forum https://www.eoshd.com/comments…nnheiser-xsw-d-batteries/
It shows that the Sennheiser has this normal standard 3.7V/850mAh 14500 battery. It looks easier to swap, and I'd be fine with that, as long as there is a good and "safe"-ish guide on how to do it.
Is it part of a firmware problem that ruined battery life? https://line6.com/support/topi…ll-firmware-battery-life/
If that doesn't work, have you considered buying a repplacement transmitter?
It's out of question because of several reasons. First reason is that it's designed to die out after a few years, making you have to buy a new one. Always having to bin it and buy a new one.. It's a market practice I'm not very fond of, and I want a set that I can have for decades. Also, the transmitter is crazy expensive for what it's really worth..
I know that at some point I have to give my money to a brand that has the same practice, but hopefully a brand that I can easily swap it myself without too much hassle and fire hazard (Looking hopeful at Sennheiser).
V8guitar Are you talking about the Sennheiser XSW-D? How did you make it at the back plate of you're rack? I'm not fully understanding your setup. I'd love to see how it looks
If this set is working great, and that the batteries can be changed easily down the road, I'm gonna go for this set.. Both for XLR mics and for my guitar pedalboard.
I've seen it before many times. it's said in the video that it's a dangerous procedure, and you can see how he's really struggling. Not an option for me. I need a new system that has simpler mechanics for that
I'm looking for something like the Relay G10 I have, or the Sennheiser XSW-D set, preferably with only one battery on the transmitter - meaning that the receiver end doesn't need battery and is a charging port (not a MUST, but preferrable).. I want a new set that can swap disposable batteries. If no disposable battery swap, I want a set that uses common batteriy standards that are easily swappable after some years. My Relay G10 lasted two years and it's now completely dead, and battery change is very difficult on this unit without any hazards and I have to bin it.. I want a new system that I can have for decades, and I don't want internal batteries to dictate it's logevity. Any good recommendations? I'm looking at the Sennheiser XSW-D now, but it has internal batteries unfortunately. Perhaps it's easily swappable down the road?
Hi guys. So I've been messing a lot around with the touch wah in order to recreate the John Mayer or Tom Misch Qtron Touch Wah effect, but to no avail. At best I'm about 70% there.
I just have one question though. Is it so that some of these Kemper effects are "sub par", without trying to be offensive ofcourse? I am for real looking in to putting my Kemper Stage on a pedalboard and buy me a Qtron and other needed pedals, but I am not sure if I'm wasting money out of the window.. Would it be a good upgrade? Or would it be a sidegrade?
I am looking for that fat, smooth saturated touch wah sound, and to my ears it sounds like the standalone pedals are the top notch ones. I don't know why though?
I meant this particular Stage-design. It was made exactly how I envisioned it in the comment above your post.
If you want to be able to reach the topmost buttons, you could cut out a half-moon on the top plexi so your toes reach further in.
This is what I’ve come up with. I know it’s not the best idea but I think it’s better than nothing. I plan on using it until I come up with something else. I can’t reach the tuner or looper switch with the cover on so my plan is to either:
A. use a different tuner
B. this weekend I’m going to try swapping the tap and tuner functions to see how well that works
Nice! You made my idea in to reality! You should mention that it's not your idea though
My G10 will only drop out around some pretty heavy interference. Otherwise it's very solid. If yours is dropping out I'm going with area radiation.
I'm not talking about regular droputs, but micro-dropouts, unaffected by any interference. It's almost inaudible, and it can only be heard when recording soft solos with a very calm soundspace. It's very small microscopic "tics" that occurs in a timely manner. As if it's constantly "re-checking" the signal. It sounds much more like a G10 thing
You need place it after the Kemper output, before whatever it's going to. I have this; Pyle hum Eliminator. But single coil pickups will hum and if you are near any light dimmers, that will make things hum. Turning the volume down on the guitar will stop that. I got the hum eliminator because I was fine until I got to a venue then it would hum/buzz, and through IEM's its not too fun for the band. It stops the buzz the guitar volume doesn'.
I tried it in between KPA and Mixer table aswell, and I got the exact same result. I returned the hum box yesterday, since it just made it worse, unfortunately. It was a passive box Rolls Buzz Off
I went through 3 different small TV set once that had wavy pictures. Turns out , I had it sitting on a 4X12 speaker cab (bachelor days)and the magnets in the speaker were causing it. (Man did I feel dumb when I realized it) I had a new EVH amp and with no footswitch attached, if you had your cellphone on top it might switch channels randomly. I had an apartment once that was totally irradiated by a nearby tower and some electronics did the same thing or worse. Point is you may need to look elsewhere besides the unit itself. We used to regularly do a 700 seat outdoor gig that I loved playing but 15 ft away from the stage were some transformers that would make single coil use very challenging and I'd get upset when the engineer would make faces about my guitar hum that wasn't the fault of my rig.
I'd say if it doesn't do that elsewhere, your location is to blame. Since it doesn't do it with a wireless, I'm guessing your cable is being a big antenna to some electrical interference. Every minute of every day we have the radiation of every radio, cellphone tower, TV station and much much more all around us and passing through us constantly day & night. Hope yours doesn't cause you to grow another limb or something.
Thank you for this thoroughly explained story. I think I'm experiencing something similar, allthoguh my singlecoil is not the problem here, since it's Suhr coils.. But as you say, the jack is picking up some external sound, and it's not necessary coming from my apartment, because if I take the KPA to the far end of my apartment and connect it in my bathroom (far away from all of my electronic equipments) I still get the exact same buzz..
If anyone know of a good wireless system for my guitar that does not micro-dropout (like my Relay G10 2.4ghz does all the time) I'd be happy to hear. Preferably if you guys have experience with professional recording with a wireless kit, I'd like to know which kit did you good
Relay G10 is ready for my trashcan soon.
You might try moving to a different room to see if the problem changes. Sounds like the guitar/cable system is picking up EMF from the environment. Even try just moving the guitar around to see if the buzz changes, or gets louder or softer.
It's the same around the whole apartment, very strange. But yes, I think it picks up signals like an antenna or something. But as I've understood it, it's not possible to get rid of it completely.
But do we know of a good wireless system that has strong and good connection without dropouts? That would solve my recording needs, since this buzz is a very hit and miss thing.. My Line 6 Relay G10 is too weak, it has microscopic dropouts that is audible on the recorded track. Do you guys happen to know of a better system, and maybe not too expensive? Something that doesn't use 2.4ghz perhaps?
Bryan Daste Wheresthedug the issue goes away if I swap the guitar cable with a wireless transmitter. The issue seems to stem from the guitar, but it doesn't. I've tested with many guitars, and they all gives this amp-buzz in the background when I am using guitar cable. I've tried 4 different guitar cables and they all yield the same. Also four/five different guitars with Humbuckers, SC, Suhr pickups, asatobuckers etc. (Yes, hum goes away if I turn down the volume on guitar!!)
It's not ground-loop either, as you say. Some guitar tech from Peach suggested that the wireless transmitter worked as a buffer, effectively nulling out the buzz, and something to do with impedance when I am using cable instead. I'm no electrician, so I don't know what this mean, so I need to try and ask stupid questions here in hopes of figuring this thing out, as I'm sure I'm overlooking something mandatory, or even better/worse, it's supposed to be like this, perhaps? Maybe I'm nitpicking?
Either way - if it's supposed to be like that - I'm probably nitpicking, but if I am able to completely remove it with wireless transmitter, I really want to do it with cable aswell, for recording purposes. So I don't have to rely on iZotope RX software and remove hum afterwards..
My dealer-shop where I bought it, here in norway, they tested it and concluded the unit to be fine. They said however that there is a slight very low volume hum, but that it's normal.. This is what led me to believe I'm nitpicking. But If I am able to remove it with wireless transmitter, there's gotta be a way for cable too!