Posts by mwinter77

    I have not examined all the most recent gadgets in detail so my recommendations are general. First you need to check what frequency-ranges you are permitted to use in your country/area, and if a license is required to operate radio gear other than the most common consumer gear. Next I would look for a kit that offer a digital link. Digital adds a little latency, but it is unnoticeable with the most recent circuit designs. Digital also has the benefit of improves scrambling (over analog) and even digital signatures in case you are concerned about security (someone/something messing with your performance). Shure ULX-series are units that meet these requirements, but I haven't had the opportunity to test any of them yet.
    As a G90 user I have no problem recommending that if you and everyone else nearby can live with its limitations in terms of 2.4G interference. I've seen 2nd-hand units being sold for very reasonable prices.

    I have extensively used both the line 6 and Shure digital wireless products and can say emphatically that the Shure system plays much nicer with nearby 2.4Ghz radios like WiFi, in fact since switching to the Shure I have had 0 interference issues and I had many in both directions with the Line 6 radio.

    I have to return G10, because I found a problem with my homewifi.

    That is the exact issue that drove me to the Shure system I mentioned previously - WiFi at venues and such were becoming a frequent issue. Have had no such issues with over a year of use with the Shure system,

    Was using the Line 6 G55 for about 2 years and switched last year to the Shure GLXD14. Gotta say the Shure kills the Line 6 on every count. I had interference issues from time to time with the line 6 and never one yet with the Shure. Also hated the AA batteries in the G55 as opposed to the super cool high power rechargeable for the GLX. A local touring musician friend suggested I look at the Shure after complaining about some of my issues with the G55. They had been using the Shure for some time and raved about it. Well they were 100% right on about the Shure I absolutely love it, best wireless I ever owned.

    We always recommend not to make any changes in Application Support (macOS) or AppData (Windows), because files and folders there can change from version to version without notice. However, with Rig Manager 2.0.17 and 2.0.19 it would be safe to remove the duplicate folder.

    As stated above, I did this (deleted the dupicate in RM) and am now realizing that these duplicates reappear when I close and open RM again. These duplicates are only showing in RM and aren't actually duplicated in the folder data. So all in all this seems to be a real problem, at least for me.

    In my %AppData% (I'm on Windows) folders area for RM there was only one folder showing for this duplicated rig pack entry in the rig packs folder. I went into rig manger where it is still showing two and highlighted the first instance of the duplicated rig pack and hit delete. It seems to have removed the duplicate without incident.


    *Edit* Also just noticed that it also duplicated another rig pack - 'Rig Pack for Bass Players' (and I don't even play Bass :) ). I will apply the same methodology to correct this one as well. I guess something odd happened during an update or something. I am on the latest version of RM.

    Everytime I switch on my KPA, the contrast on the remote is at maximum.
    I set it right but when I turn off and on again the KPA, the contrast is still there at maximum (almost unreadable)

    Have you checked the contrast knob setting on the rear of the remote and the setting from within the profiler system setup? As I recall this can be set via software from within the profiler setup menus but the hardware knob on the back of the remote will override on boot.

    Have you checked your rig and main volume knobs? Do the LED indicators on them move by themselves? It could be that a pot is failing. I haven't had this problem with my Kemper yet, touch wood.

    Since these controls on the KPA aren't actual "pots" this would never be the case. They are rotary encoders whose values are read in software by detecting the rotary motion rather than an absolute location of the control. The way these work a failure would not exhibit this type of behavior. This is not to say that a different failure in the encoder detection circuit couldn't cause an issue that would cause the software to react as though the knob had been turned but that is not a failing "pot" per se and is a rather unlikely failure scenario.

    Isn't the physical knob only for display contrast? Anyway, I tried that one also (and the LCD contrast setting from the system menu) and it works: the contrast does change as it should. The only problem is missing backlight from the LCD, otherwise the screen works just fine. Unfortunately it's impossible to read without the backlight in non-optimal conditions (pretty much every single real world scenario). Also all LED lights on the board are working and functionalities seem okay - it's just the backlight and nothing else.

    Yes, you are correct. I was misremembering things a bit there. But good to hear that is working as it should. Does sound like the LCD back-light was somehow damaged in transit and as such your remote will require repair or replacement.

    I second the recommendation by @SteveH. Try a new ethernet cable. The Remote is using PoE (Power over Ethernet). When you have a bad cable, often, what has happened, is that one or more of the pin connections in cable's connector(s) has been damaged, or is defective. If that is the case, you might get this problem of the Remote not being able to illuminate the backlight.


    If that doesn't work, then definitely contact Kemper GmbH Support.

    No, if the remote powers up and works other than the back-light, it is 100% for sure not the cable. If the cable is working to power the unit then it is for sure not the cable.


    I noticed people mentioned checking the software setting for back-light level, you should also check the physical knob on the back of the remote itself too.

    In US Sweetwater is showing non-powered heads with a $181 discount, powered $225 discount, and combo's with controller are $211 discount. So all are a bit lower but nothing dramatic really. Still feel pretty good that 3 years later and several awesome updates later I've only paid about $200 more than people are paying today. I'll take that early adopter hit - no problem! :D

    Important to note that this is only for Windows 7 and Vista. For Windows 8/10 rather than attempting to use the prepackaged profile simply make the settings they suggest as shown here.


    Additionally they also offer the suggestion to simply use the built-in Windows 'high performance' power profile which pretty much sets everything as it should be for maximum performance for audio too. This suggestion is shown here along with some other things they recommend in general. Using the 'high performance' setting is what I do.

    Hello, I'm noticing in this period that the ATOMIC is no longer making available their monitors for the European market.
    Did I get it right ?
    Does anyone have more information about it?
    ?(

    This post isn't 'Profiler related' and should be posted in the 'other gear' forum instead. It really makes a difference to keep the forums properly organized and to post things in the appropriate places.

    OK, Cool thanks for the info. Guess $6 USD isn't too bad for the GP6 transcription and backing tracks etc. really like some of the phrasing ideas I heard in this - great playing as always - just might have to go for it for myself since its Christmas and all.


    BTW was checking out your others and hadn't seen your BFR Luke your using in solo package #1 - I really like that one - very nice!


    Also the composition in that #1 video package reminds a lot of Lukather's style playing and tone.