Posts by Dudemanbrother

I like using the graphic EQ in the X slot; I have found that (specifically for treble) I get good results with setting the high cut around 8500hz and dropping the 10k band to -2 to -5dB. For whatever reason it still effects the tone even with the high cut set as such. I typically set the mix to around 55-60%.
Then if needed, I throw a Studio EQ in one of the pre slots and notch filter any trouble frequencies. Mix around 65-70%.
Trying out other cabs can be a huge improvement too.

You run an instrument cable from MONITOR OUTPUT on the back of your Kemper into the input of your power amp. Then go into OUTPUT menu and check “monitor cab off”. This will allow FOH to receive the full profile, and your 4x12 will have the cab section off.

You need to either profile the amp or find a profile of the amp you want. You likely can’t tweak a Peavey 5150 profile to sound like Metallica or Pantera. You’d want to find a Mesa Mark III or something to get you into the Metallica ballpark, and find a bunch of high gain Randall profiles to get a Dime sound.
So yes, buying a profile pack for specific sounds makes the most sense.
As for how I use my Kemper as a metal guy: I profile my own tube heads to capture whatever settings I’m liking best at the moment. Being able to flip between all my favorite amps with the push of a button is awesome. Plus I can get my favorite tone at any volume. For example: my Bogner Uberschall sounds fizzy and loose at bedroom volumes, but roars to life when I crank it. Profiling the cranked settings allows me to enjoy “my tone” without disturbing the next 3 city blocks

Ideally just grab a 1’ cable with a wire size of 14AWG. I bought one with a right angle IEC connector from a local electronics store and it’s perfect for clean cable management.

Yeah, you can use IRs. You need to download the Cab Maker to convert them into .kpir files first though.

Ah I get what your saying. Yeah I have found that they definitely sound best when everything is profiled. I get too much bass and woofy/boxiness when I make direct profiles. Then it gets thin and scratchy if I try to merge a cab.

The only time you’d probably want to have the Cab sim off is when you’re using the 50/50 into a standard guitar cab. If you’re using the power amp into a PA speaker, the sound will be pretty awful without the cab section on.

A guitar speaker is probably reproducing frequencies from roughly 80hz to 6,000hz. A PA speaker can typically do 20hz to 20,000hz. The EQ difference is rather drastic as well. I like using tube power amps (Peavey 60/60 and Mesa 2:90) but only with a guitar cab. Tube (Alternating Current) power reacts with limited range woofers in an ear pleasing matter. FRFR speakers don’t have the same reaction and can handle much higher power, thus effectively neutralizing the appeal of a tube power amp.

Quote from Eltzejupp

Can't get the same volumelevel on monitor and direct out Connected a studio monitor to monitor out and the other one to direct out. No output on direct out. Monitor stereo is setted.

Does Direct Out have a “link to master volume” In the output menu? That’s what you’d want to do. Un-link everything but monitor out and direct out. Then when you turn up the volume, only those two outs will be effected. Just make sure they’re set to the same exact dB level when linked. Then just set your other outs to whatever signal makes sense. I keep the Main outs, on both my Kemper and other guitarist’s, at -12dB so that FOH can use their sliders to set the PA levels.

The best method is to profile your own amps dialed in with your favorite settings.
If you dont own any amps; then hook up your computer to the Kemper so you can try high gain profiles through the rig exchange.
I’d probably suggest Mesa Boogie Mark III IV V or JP2C profiles for surgically tight high gain. VHT Pitbull also springs to mind immediately. Next group would be Diezel VH4, Herbert, and the Bogner Uberschall.
The biggest thing you’ll want to familiarize yourself with is equalization and how to use it. In most cases, I run the studio EQ (parametric) in one of the “front of amp” slots to cut bass, maybe slightly boost something in the mids, and notch cut really nasty frequencies. This is my gain shaping tool. In the Mod or X slot I run the graphic EQ. This is where I like to add the bass back in (only needs a hair typically) and further let the bass and treble stand out by reducing some mids, where the cocked wah sounds come from. The result is a tight high gain tone that sits well with the whole band.

Track sounds great man! We're playing a show with you guys tonight (ApHelion) so the Kempers' will be well represented haha

I tried that 20+ times before opening a support ticket. Every time the unit had power it would automatically load to the tuning screen regardless of where the switch was set, even off.

I'd at least contact Kemper Support, if they determine that you are indeed past warranty, they might be able to tell you where to get the replacement LEDs

You'll have to open a support ticket and most likely send it in for a new switch. It happened to me recently, but mine was stuck on the tuning screen. They got the amp back to me pretty quickly and I was very happy with their service and communication.

Glad it's sorted out. It's a good idea to get familiar with the studio eq and graphic eq when you get some time. I run a cheap spectrum analyzer app on my phone, and while it's probably not completely accurate it shows me a decent representation of the frequencies coming out of my speakers. I like to set one eq in my "pre amp" slot 3, and another in the X slot. I use the slot 3 to shape the distortion character, and high pass/low pass. I use the spec analysis data to cut fizzy and cocked wah like frequencies. The X slot is for further refinement of the overall sound. It's also useful to know the frequency chart of the speakers you use(if you use power amp and cab via monitor out). I never use the eq presets as they don't account for playing style i.e. "Metal" can mean Cannibal Corpse or Judas Priest, very different eq preference! When you know where your speaker frequencies start and end, you can cut out some of the frequencies not utilized. I typically cut the lows below 50hz and the highs above 10khz, this is broader than my speakers can even produce, but when we play live it's nice to have a little more sound spectrum available through the PA.

When you select an eq is the LOCK button lit up? Other than that you might want to do a reset in start up and see if you accidentally set something you didn't want

I also bought a couple packs of Radians ear molds for about 10 bucks each and made my own custom molds for my EIMs which definitely helped with bass response and decreased some fuzzy treble.

The pricier in ears definitely help in this department, but you could try adjusting the space parameter and see if that gets you closer. We use IEMs in that price point as well, and have just tried to find the balance of decent tone in ears and excellent tone to FOH

I think the Kemper and Michael Britt's Dumble pack are all you'd ever need to get the John Mayer sound. I know one of MBs Two Rock profiles is my go-to for that sound.

Now, I own a house so I don't know what is too loud in an apartment setting, but there will always be something special, and a little different, about plugging into a Fender tube amp and jamming out. You could always get an attenuator or, like me, use an MXR 10 band in the loop (HR Deville) and pull the level slider almost all the way down, and get great tone at low volume. Plus the Kemper profiles are just incredible through the Fenders power section.

I messed with a axe FX iiXL for a bit, I thought the high gain tones sounded great and the ability to run two amp sims was a cool feature, but it was way too much effort to navigate through if something was off in a patch, and often times it only got worse or the problem shifted elsewhere when trying to tweak it. With the Kemper I can just switch to a different profile and problem solved!

Nice man! I made one similar, but out of solid pine. I spaced my rack mount posts front and back to access the top 2 rack spaces from the back. The face plate on front is detachable for access to the cables etc of the top 2U, and I built it with enough room on each side for cable storage and power supplies etc.

Next step is to profile your orange 100 and refine it until it's indistinguishable from the amp. Then it's even easier!