Posts by Dudemanbrother

Different amps have different levels of compression, so it’s pretty amp dependent. I have to dig into the strings a lot more when I play through my VHT Ultra Lead vs my Uberschall. The Kemper isn’t exactly the same as the real amps in this area. I can get the “high effort” sound from my VHT profiles without having to work for it as much. It does respond to pick attack and heavy handedness; just not as much as the real amp.

It’s nice for recording because I can control the peaks during palm muting better than with my actual amps. Nothing sucks worse than scrapping a great take because the signal started clipping.

Quote from Monkey_Man

Forgive my ignorance, DMB, but what is it man?

No worries mate. It’s a small German company called Claas, the model is called Moby Dick.

Quote from ResidentCarbon

I am using the newest update. The Pue Cab normally sits at zero, but I have tried cranking it up. As for Space, what should I be at? I'll be at my Kemper in a little bit to try all this out. I definitely was not aware of the rate adjustment which is great. How do I find that?

Check that global pure cab is switched off. I think it’s set at 3 by default. It’s a soft button in one of the menus. As for Space: it’s just a preference setting. Just check what level it’s at in your headphones out, and you can try matching that value in your output to see if it makes the 2 sound closer. I don’t have my Kemper with me right now so I can’t remember exactly where the sample rate adjustment is, but looking through the output menu is probably the place. I’m sure someone can chime in with specifics.

Quote from ResidentCarbon

The XLR cables made a difference, but I need further adjustments. It does sound better, but it's not quite a mirror image of each headphone jack. I'm considering jumping the Zoom L20 to 96kHz for recording to try it out, but given the Kemper's 44.1kHz output, I doubt that would make it worth losing the EQ on the L20 to record at 96. I did try out the one xlr and set it to mono, but it was too flat. All that said, the closest I've gotten so far is two tracks, KPA set to stereo.

Have you checked that Pure Cab is off? That will effect the sound from the main outs vs the headphones. Also, are you using Space with the headphones? Lastly, Kemper released an update a few months ago allowing you to select between 44.1-96khz so I assume it sounds best when the Kemper and interface are matched up.

Wheresthedug I’ve had a couple sets and I really enjoy them. The frequency spectrum is very wide and balanced; so they really work well with the Kemper. I have another set but haven’t decided which guitar will get them. They stay quiet with gobs of gain, but are beautiful sounding with a clean amp or profile.

Walnut, maple, ebony, and stainless steel

I’ve never been happy with the sound using ts or trs cables with the main outs. A single xlr in one of the main outs has always been my preference, and I set the main out to “master mono” (or however it’s labeled) in the output menu.

You can disconnect the hot wire from your Guitar’s output jack and solder a 470pF cap with one end on the hot wire, and the other onto the jack (placing the cap in series) and then installing a 5.6M ohm resistor from that hot lug to the ground lug (placing the resistor in parallel). This will create a simple passive high pass filter at 60.5hz and eliminate hum.

Your signal will go down a bit, so you’d maybe need to increase Distortion Sense a little to compensate; though I do variations of this filter on many of my guitars, and haven’t really needed to adjust anything for high gain profiles.

Both have too much cocked wah going on. #2 had less so that leads me to believe it was the Axe 3 patch, and #1 was a profile of that patch.

It’s in your head haha. There is a strange noise that happens when you press the CAB button, but the sound is the same when Monitor Cab Off is selected.

Anything in the PL line from Furman will work great.

Have you tried the Kemper DI yet? Maybe just make a few and report the quality of profiles you’re getting. I’m curious about tips on getting good direct profiles as well. Mine seem to get an exaggerated mid hump around 700-800hz and that gets worse in the octave from 1.4k-1.6k. I have to use most stomps, mod and x slots just cleaning up the artifacts.

I’ve had the Mega Boogie IR pack for about a week now; and it is as good and better than stock cabs on the majority of my Favorite stored high gain rigs. With such excellent IR captures, I can know just worry about figuring out how to get great sounding direct profiles of all my heads. I’ve got a few passive load boxes on the way to try.

The pack not only comes with Kemper .kpir files, but standard IR as well. They can be loaded into any IR loader (or converted for Two Notes) you use. This is excellent for me. I can run my tube heads into my Fryette Power Load, and right into Two Notes WOS and get an incredible tone while I work on better Direct captures with my Kemper.

Thanks for an excellent product Mikko!

GuyJames Q stands for “quality” and basically refers to how narrow or wide the frequencies being manipulated are. A high Q is for fine tuning; while a low Q is for very broad, drastic changes. The finer you can narrow down an ugly frequency, the deeper you can cut it out. (Ex) If 4khz-4.8khz is producing a “chirping” frequency, you can’t exactly cut all that area -12dB without getting a very boxy tone. So you would slowly bring that broad range down maybe -2dB until the chirp is gone but your tone is still lively. If the offending frequency is very narrow, say 4000-4020hz for example; then you can basically cut that as low as you’d like, without having a negative impact on the overall tone.

Quote from GuyJames

Interesting, so if I wanted to shape an high gain to have good smooth clarity (no fuzzy lows or sharp highs) what would you recommend twisting first? I understand that the definition knob is the first place to start once that seems set and I just want to polish it what would you do? Btw, would you eq through your studio monitors or guitar cab?

monitor through both. You want to have something that sounds excellent through FOH (my first priority) and something inspiring to play through my cab.

First thing I do is hold the AMPLIFIER button, I’ll adjust the Definition: lower for a rounder, warmer sound, higher for a brighter, tighter sound. Next page has Clarity. It makes a very positive change right around 0.5 on most profiles. You can go higher, but that seems to be a sweet spot. Power Sagging can help here too. I’ll add Compressor between 1.0-2.0. Then I add some Direct Mix, usually like 1.1-1.6 as it seems to fatten up the tone.

Next I set a studio EQ in the STOMPS section. I find most high gain profiles have too much woofy low end, so I Low Cut around 200hz and High Cut around 9-10khz. Next I’ll go to the first (Mid1 Gain) parametric page; I temporarily boost the signal all the way up to +12dB, set the Q high (4.5-5) and sweep the frequency knob to find the worst sounding frequency. Once I find it, I back the Q down slowly to hear how broad that nasty sound goes. In general: The higher I have the Q, the lower I set the the Gain. Ex: Q set to 5 and Mid Gain set to -12dB; Q set to 0.707 and Mid Gain set maybe to -4dB. I’ll repeat this process for the Mid2 page; and lastly go back to page 1, and boost around 400hz a small amount of necessary. Finally, I’ll turn it on and off a few times to make sure I like the changes, add a bit of volume back depending on how much I cut, and set the Mix and Ducking. If I feel like the EQ sterilized the overall tone a bit too much, I’ll run the Mix around 65-85% and add some Ducking. If I really like the changes then I’ll run it around 95%

I was going to grab a few of these; but since the Kemper Cone was announced, I decided to wait for those instead. Once I know the air volume requirements: my plan is to modify my old Peavey 5150 4x12 into a 2x12 by sealing the upper half. The lower half will store my Kemper, foot controller, misc. during traveling.

Quote from flcmcya

Very cool!

I just got a 2 pack of ear mould!

Awesome! I’d be curious to get your thoughts on them once you’ve had a chance to try them out. I’ve been quite happy with mine.

My band has made the switch to IEM and it’s been so much better. We both use Kempers and our bassist uses a Darkglass preamp with a direct out. We place a room mic near the snare and trigger the kicks. Our drummer has a Roland trigger pad with our click tracks loaded; so we all get a click, kicks, and snare/hi hat (plus symbol bleed; and depending on how high I mix that mic, I can hear talking on stage between songs) After a few shows we were all able to dial in our own individual mixes using the Zoom Livetrack L20. It also is an audio interface; so we get crystal clear live recordings, which is great for assessing our rehearsals and live shows. Everything is racked with a FOH snake so our setup time is a breeze. I work with the sound guy while our drummer sets up his kit.

We don’t use any stage monitors, but have brought back our cabs to push a very reasonable level of sound for the people up front. This was a complaint we got when playing with zero stage volume. We are now a much tighter band and no longer deal with ringing ears or nasty feedback.

I went to the local hunting/outdoors store and bought some 2 part diy ear molds from there. You basically mix the two ingredients until it’s like silly puddy, and shove it in your ears. After a few minutes, as it starts to harden, I pressed my in-ears into the molds (with a piece of cotton in the sound hole). After they fully set up: I took a small drill bit and followed the angle of the sound hole to allow the sound to escape. It cost me around $10 and I have excellent isolation. This allows me to hear perfectly without needing to turn up my body pack more than 25-30%. They have held up for over 2 years since I made them.

I have Pure Cab turned off globally; but I can confirm with my ears what the OP showed. Just turning it on at 0.1, with certain high gain profiles, really helps smooth out some fizz in the high end. I’ve always just tried turning it on at minimum and back off; if it sounds good on, then I’ll sweep through and find my favorite setting. A lot of times it is between 0.1-0.5.

I know it gets a lot of flac, but I’d rather have it and not use it, then to not have it at all.

You have to mod the FCB. It’s not very difficult, but you do need to have a little bit of electrical knowledge and a soldering iron. I did it to mine years ago and it’s great.

Basically, the mains IEC connector instantly goes to a small transformer inside the FCB. What I did was remove that transformer and send the low voltage wires to 2 unused MIDI pins. On the Kemper side: I used a wall wart transformer, that met the current requirements of the FCB (don’t remember off the top of my head) and spliced those two wires into my MIDI cable. They are not connected to the MIDI plug that connects to the Kemper, so there is no outside voltage entering. It just sends 9v thru the MIDI cable on the previously unused wires.