Does the fuse with a UK plug matter? using 13amp over 5amp....safety check please!

  • Hi All,


    I got my Kemper today - and all is well - but the british 3 pin plug that came in the box had a bent top pin - which meant I had to use a spare kettle lead I have. Now, the Kemper one was fitted with a 5 amp fuse, and this one has a 13 amp fuse - is this a problem?


    No issues running it so far - and LOVING the tones! Please can anyone confirm asap - and will hunt out another fuse/cable to avoid any issues.


    Cheers,


    -Tonerider

  • I've never managed to handle one of those... Can you remove the fuse and install a 5A one (maybe taking it from the lriginal cord)?


    5 vs 13 means that the former will break the circuit when the absorbed current reaches 5 ampere. If Kemper have decided so, I'd respect the specifics. The latter will break the circuit only when the current reaches 13 A.


    Anyway, all of this is for protecting the KPA from mains overcurrents and/or spikes coming from outside: as long as nothing wrong happens on the mains line... no problems :) Should it happen, I'd want to draw the sagety lines where Kemper put it ;)

  • As an electrician, I'm pretty sure that the 5A fuse is just an extra level of protection that you don't technically need. We don't have fused power cables over here, so anyone with a Kemper is running from a 15A or 20A circuit breaker in their electrical panel.


    I'd love to know if this is wrong, but I'm 99% sure that such a small fuse is only there to protect your Kemper if something shorts out.

  • The german plugs don't have a fuse at all and I'm 100% sure that the KPA has some fuses internal (besides: until a 5A fuse blows the KPA's internal fuse would have blown 10times....) - so I'd say: just use the 13A cable.

    MJT Strats / PRS Guitars / Many DIY Guitars -- Kemper Profiler Rack / Kemper Remote / InEar

  • Many thanks for the replies - I've changed the fuse in the plug I'm using to the 5amp one that came in the borked Kemper kettle lead. It's also running into a surge protector before hitting the mains, no issues so far.

  • Sorry to resurrect this thread, but having read through a number of these 'which fuse for the UK plug' conversations, I've noticed that none that I've seen have mentioned that on the back of the toaster itself it says, below where the mains cord goes into it, " AC - 100 - 240V / Max 0.5A ".


    Hopefully I haven't misunderstood, but doesn't the 0.5A part mean half an amp..? Which would be one of the 500mA (milliamp) fuses that I've seen upon Googling it..?

  • Actually, there seem to be several diferent layouts with different signs... Google for images.
    Some Profilers don't specify any indication about current, others read "max 10 A", others as you reported (and you are correct, it's 500 mA).
    i expect the current to be higher @ 110 V than at 220, but 500 mA seems really low. I'm 3,000 km far from my Profiler and can't check it ATM :/


    :)

  • A fuse in a mains cable is to protect the mains cable, not the device.


    You have to realise that a standard IEC mains lead in the UK can be used with any number of appliances. The appliance itself is fused and that is to help protect the appliance.


    The fuse in a mains lead just needs to be rated at less than the maximum current capacity of the cable. So if you're using 20 amp rated cable then a 13 amp fuse protects it. If, due to a fault condition, the ends of the cable short out then lots of current will pass. The fuse in the cable will blow at 13 amps and the cable will not catch fire because the cable can take 20 amps before it gets hot.


    It's a good idea. A ring main will be fused much higher at the board so you have the extra fuses in the cable to protect that. It's not that we have a problem with wiring here - we're just being safer than the rest of you ;) If you used some thin flexible cable to make a mains lead and then used it with a kettle, you could have a problem.


    I have no problem because one thing we know how to use here is a kettle. I will now go and make tea in case I've unintentionally been impolite. It's been a beautiful day and I'm hoping it won't rain tomorrow. Toodle pip.

  • Right, I see, thanks.


    The only reason it's all on my mind is because of the "pitt-pitt" (that's the only way I can think to verbalize the noise) that I get when I touch a tuner or a string or other metal part on my guitar. It's worse with high-gain sounds of course. I just thought that maybe it was something to do with the fuse...


    I've established that it's not the guitar or the cable, having plugged them into a Fender combo in the same room and turned it way up, that electricity "pitt" noise when you touch a metal part with your finger definitely doesn't exist in that setup.


    It's very frustrating to not know why it's happening.

  • That's nothing to do with a fuse. If you're getting a noise when you touch the strings then it's either:-


    1. You've got a noise gate on so you have blissful silence until the Kemper 'hears' something. To eliminate this, turn off the noise gate and hear what it sounds like.


    2. Basically, your body acts like an aerial. Electrical noise in the air gets picked up by your guitar pickups and also by you. When you touch the strings on tuners, you will get a little change in the noise levels because the strings and tuners are grounded via the ground lead on your guitar...... When you touch the strings, all the noise being picked up by your body also goes to earth so whilst you get a little 'pitt-pitt', you'll then get a quieter noise floor.


    Try number 2 by selecting a single coil guitar and the profile of your choice that is fairly clean so not too much noise..... No noise gate...... Grab the strings. Listen to the noise - it should pitt-pitt then get quieter..... If it's not quieter when you're holding the strings then you have a problem with the earthing on your guitar. IMO anyway :)