Posts by V8guitar

Quote from halipino

Do you guys have that same journey sifting through 100's of sounds?

Simplistic answer is yes. One of the issues with the KPA is the amount of options.

My personal view is:

1) Looks for amps you like or think you would like to narrow your search

2) Try something, if you like it, save it. If you don;t, move on. In other words limit your time on tweaking, certainly initially.

3) go back to the sounds you down selected and re-listen - you will surprised at how different they sound

4) Always check your sounds how you intend to use them i.e. profiles sound very different at live gig volume

I found myself challenging the sounds I thought I liked...

Have fun!

Quote from BayouTexan

But that can be a good thing not necessarily a bad thing. It's all about tone. The audience doesn't care what amp you are using or trying to sound like. They just want you to sound good. Heck, I don't even care what amp or profile you are using. Just make it sound good. Then, I might want to know to be able to copy you.

This is so important.

The profile is the base and the start. The KPA can change those sounds beyond the capability of the original amp. Also most of the AMP behaviours are not designed in but by products of their construction. The KPA has the advantage ( I think) that the changes you make are linear rather than interactive so you have more control.

I don;t care if it mimics an ENGL in every turn of the dial. I care that the initial sound is great and I can make the changes I want without the idiosyncrasies of the original. Yes I might miss a sweet spot but in most cases its there, just requires different turns of the dial.

If support can;t help you, unfortunately its unlikely we can, as they know the KPA better than anyone on here.

sounds like you've tried everything like:

Properly formatted stick

Different sticks

You could set the file structure manually and add the upgrade file directly but sounds like the KPA isn't reading it anyway.

I presume you've tried hard resets but you'll lose your data unless you copy to RM and minimise loss.

Quote from dacop1313

I use a real Wah only.

Using a crybaby as controller and the presets that DonPetersen did, I've also got rid of my wah, with the added advantage of touch capability.

I assume you've tried them and prefer outboard, but if you haven;t, suggest you give them a go :).

Quote from Burkhard

That is not a hardware issue! The polarity must have been screwed in your settings. The KEMPER switches are normally open and the PROFILER expects switches normally open.

In earlier sofwtare versions it was possible to change the polarity. If the PROFILER thinks your switch is normally closed, while it is normally open, this has exactly the effect you are describing.

I suggest you use current OS and press Init Globals which should realign the settings.

Ahhh, fab, thank you! I'm not surprised its user error!!

I use rig volume to balance and boost for morph. I see this as similar to the channel volume on an am.

Master volume is for....master volume.

I bought the Kemper switch years ago to use for rehearsals.

The only issue I had is it activates once you release the switch not when you initially press it ( sometimes I lean on the switch rather than tap it), and that slight "delay" threw me a bit.

Not sure if this is the same for the remote and other switches but it was very noticeable.

Otherwise, great bit of kit!

Quote from halipino

Well I'm no scientist but wouldn't that be up to your ears? Which do you like better or does a blend of both sound good? I'm swapping out my 30's for Kones in hopes that I achieve more clarity and definition especially in the high gain profiles. I will be installing kones real ssoon.

Hope you like them. Just be aware that there is a big difference between Guitar speakers and Kones and although the imprints emulate V30's it odes start with the profiles and might show up "weak" profiles.

None. whole reason I bought it was a one stop shop. There are no effects outside of those built in that I need..

Quote from davidcom93

Thank you all for the advice. I think for now I’ll go with the Kemper kab so I can take advantage of the imprint technology.

Let us know how you get on. I have 2 and love them.

Quote from vjclaus

i bought the powered cab and thought this is my dream rig, tweaked with the imprints during rehearsals but was not 100% satisfied. Now i go with my yamaha dxr10 and the feel and sound is back. Strange story but what should i do dxr works for me best.?

Whenever you change your monitoring system you need to re-look at your whole sound. FRFR sounds quite different to the Kone.

In other words, the Kone will sound different not instantly "better".

When I go back to FRFR I don't like it.

Im a bit confused on the question as it seems very obvious.

A modeler as the amp representation already built into the unit.

A profiler ( in the context of Kemper's definition) takes a snapshot of another amp.

Quote from Burkhard

If such extensions work, as long as these do, lucky you. You might just be at the fence of undersupplying power to the Remote. Changing the environment just a bit and there could be issues. Therefor other users might immediately experience issues. KEMPER engineering does explicitely not recommend such extensions without the involvement of PoE. Don't take the risk, PoE injectors come at about 25 bucks.

I know this has come up before, is there a reference of which PoE injectors that are compatible ( I know very little about them) or if someone could point to one that is suitable.

Also at what point can/should they be inserted, i.e. is it viable to have it at the Kemper end?

2 big factors here:

1)Headphones - you need dual or triple drivers at least and sounds like you have it covered

2) Your profiles - I have found the harsh sounds are often replicated out front. I would do all of the above that others have suggested

Quote from Rapidfire

After a year and a half waiting it finally came! Ormsby RC One. 7 string multiscale with 27 frets. 12th-27th frets are scalloped.

7 strings and multiscale are too confusing for me but that top....oh man....im in love!

Quote from Nordan

I'm sure the interface is not to blame. I thought about that, reevaluated every 'in' and 'out' in the control panel, checked the gain levels everywhere. Meanwhile I also tried it whith the analog inputs. It's the same.

And most importantly:if I take the interface out of the signal chain and listen through the headphone out of the kemper it is the same. Way too much bass(and maybe additional stuff that I can't figure out).
Meanwhile I performed several factory/init resets to exclude some whacky things there and bring the kemper back to factory setting. But still: nope.

If no one has an idea, I might open a support ticket.

I'm still very thankful to all of you here =)

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Might be your next course of action, but hard to believe its not a setting or something else, but without a side by side test with another Kemper you won;t know. Hope you get it sorted...

Quote from Nordan

Of course every headphone is EQ'd differently and every room has it's problems. But this doesn't matter here. I compared two reamped signals through the same monitor source(s).

I know this won;t help but....

• The Kempers E.Q. isn;t odd, you should not need to do any massive E.Q.ing - which leads me to suspect there is another issue in your signal chain
• You can get a great sound out of a Kemper for what you are doing.

There are so many factors at play its really difficult to diagnose. Reamping should have ruled out playing etc so now its in the monitoring and your set up.

Quote from Dynochrome

Me too basically but trimming up the top and bottom makes things a lot easier and only has positive impact. No sense taking up headroom to the pre if the engineer is just going to cut it anyway. I don't EQ because I agree that would be soundboard job, but I'll trim the fat.

I think the point here is getting your sound right in advance. Your point on trimming also suggests it makes the sound more "forgiving" which is also no bad thing

Quote from slateboy

how does the remote perform when using the original remote cable + inline-connector + short ethernet cable without PoE?

Works fine for me.

Quote from StefanErtle

I use a Neutrik NE8 FDX-P6. The main problem was finding an appropriate short cable from KPA to the Neutrik. It worked flawlessly with a shorter cable (5m). By time I bought a Cudy POE200. With that cable length doesn’t matter anymore and the lights are way brighter. I fixed the short cable to my rack so it should never give up that way.

Oh the cable clips might help me!