I'm disappointed. I hoped for SNES support.
With the new SNES Mini and an easy hack you can add atari and amiga rom - hope this helps
Posts by Ibot39
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Edit: All information on existing NAMM thread! Was too excited to see it and just posted
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Thank you guys! I really appreciate this! Is there a tecnique to get the right clean sense setting? I watched the video but it just explains what clean sense and distorsion sense are which is great but I would like to know if any of you guys do it in a certain way that worked for you
Question is, what do you want to achieve? I did use clean sense in my beginning months of Kemper use to adapt different guitars. Nowadays I just have the default Input setting locked and change nothing here. This gives me the best results.
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Don't know, but yes, it's definitely a pickup simulator.
I think of it as an advanced Seymour Duncan Pickup Booster (which has its resonance switch options). Does this make any sense?
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I find this approach more appealing than the Sim1 xt1 tbh!! Especially because it does NOT "learn" my pickups, but rather interacts with them.
Let me explain: I don' know how it works, but maybe it has to do with impedance/pickup load combined with an eq and boost. So if you use it as an "pickup enhancer" that can get you into the ballpark of a few pu-characteritics (single coil, modern humbucker...), this is a way more creative way to sculpt your tone. You have the bright switch, tone and level knob to further adjust (or adapt to different pu and position you use) to your OWN taste.
As far as I know it works best with passive pu and is analog (no latency added!!).
The downside (for playing live)would be the unpractical switching possibility.
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Das in einer Betaversion Bugs enthalten sind, liegt in der Natur der Sache. Wir verteilen die Public Betas ausdrücklich zu Testzwecken und empfehlen diese Versionen nicht für wichtige Live oder Studiotermine zu verwenden.
Kemper Support #1 Auch wenn es nirgends erwähnt ist, scheint aber bereits in dieser Beta der Bug behoben zu sein, indem der Verstärker durchklang auch wenn Amplifier ausgeschalten war und nur die Cab Section benutzt wurde. Ist das richtig? Nach einem kurzen Test habe ich diesbezüglich den Eindruck, dass jetzt alles so ist wie es sein soll
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Unfortunately doesn't seems to work for everyone. Not working in my case.
Try holding the REVERB button down until the "reverb settings" appear, after that the ON/OFF button should work.
Hope this works. Have no other idea until they fix it.
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My reverb wont turn off nor on. I can assign it to the kemper pedal, then i can disable it or enable it, but not on the kemper?
sup with that?
This seems to be a bug. You can use the ON/OFF button (after selecting REVERB) as a tempory solution to turn reverb off.
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My BROWSE knob is getting hot - so where is the new preset management
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The reverb beta is not really working for me. The Lock button doesn't work as expected and once I turned the reverb on I now can't turn it off. Surprising to walk straight into a big bug within the first 2 minutes after all the time it's been in dev, but I'm sure they'll iron out the issues. The reverb sounds really good though! I can't wait until they're gig-ready.
Thanks for the update guys. I might have to be a fast follower on this one though.
Use the ON/OFF button (after selecting REVERB) as a tempory solution to turn reverb off.
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On their site is says: "Amplifier and cabinet captured separately for ultimate flexibility in tone".
Later in the text: "But, what’s really unique about this pack is that each amplifier has been captured directly, without any cabinet."
And some more information. You can clearly read that they give you "34 Kemper Profiles and 2 IR".
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To answer my own question, I woke up this morning and remembered I had a Michael Britt free profile pack on my KPA.
I loaded up the AC50 profile, set the gain to 1.0, and plugged in my Boss Power Stack. It was honestly like a religious experience.
This profile alone is a better pedal platform than any actual Fender HRD or Princeton amp I’ve ever played.
I’m BLOWN AWAY! My jaw has been on the floor for the last half an hour!
Finding good pedal platforms is my hobbyhorse. I still buy pedals to get new and/or unique sounds - so a profile that takes pedals very well is a must for me.
The above mentioned profile is in my top-list. Problem: At the moment I have a pedal platform folder with 122 "pedal platform" rigs
.I am working on a personal best-list and will reduce the selection bit by bit
Because I have bought almost every rig out there and there are so many good free profiles in RE, it will take some time.
Look out for clean profiles of a Marshall JVM410HJS (Satriani amp). They almost always work good with drive pedals. For example the free "JVM410HJS clean grn" from tonymckenzie.com in the RE. Or even better: All the clean rigs (different channels) from Deadlight Studios JVM410HJS commercial pack.
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Monkey_Man weell it is pretty old so warranty is over either way
but i guess it's digital.Ibot39 no the "noon" and "scooped" versions are only the preamppedal directly into the kemper and the ParaQ ones are the
revv pedal into a 10 band parametric eq ... i just filtered it a bit sooped bit and less 4k
Thats my "black metal ears" - I really LIKE them raspy as they are, who needs cabs
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Bommel Thanks again!!
Sorry if I didn't get it
But what is the signal chain of the Revv profiles? Even if there is no cab activated on the Kemper, there is some cab (sim?) baked into it?? -
rmhevers Do you have permission to use the cabs from other authors / sellers?
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Very uplifting!
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I do simple maintenance such as truss rod adjustment, setting up action and intonation, etc. but I draw the line at dressing frets or filing nuts because I'm just not good at that sort of thing.
That said, different people have different talents. Personally, my friends encourage me to avoid power tools and sharp objects due to spontaneous bouts of unbridled enthusiasm, but some people just naturally have a feel for such things. They have the instinct and touch to just watch a YouTube video and fall right into the groove.
Of course, if I had a 100K+ LP, I wouldn't be worried about a G-string problem. I'd be looking for the escape hatch since I clearly would have woken up in an alternate reality.
Totally get that!
But in this case it is "quite likely" that a few "moves" with a 1000 grit sandpaper in the logically right angle will drastically improve it. I dare say, anyone can do this?
No need to "file" anything. If someone will visit a luthier anyway, why not try this before? But for the sake of heaven, if someone is not sure about it - let it be!
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I didn't know that there was THIS amp before the Suhr signature - very interesting!
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Ibot39 You are so right... Would you do that if you had a 100K+ LP that had developed a G-string problem whilst in your care?
I would do and I already do it on ANY guitar that needs a quick fix
I did recut the nut on ALL of my Gibson guitars (5) slightly. I did make a complete new bone nut for my Gibson Flying V - wasn't too difficult either and I am really not a genius or something.
I changed almost all bridges too, because at some point Gibson was not able to get the slots in the bridge saddles right. They just used a string and a hammer to make a groove. And if they slipped, they made a second groove on the saddle or leave it that way.
On my Musicman Stingray I did adjust the compensated nut with fine tools (but I have bought an original Musicman nut as a replacement, to have the original nut back on, when I want to sell it).
If a pot or some electronics are broken I change and repair it - doesn't matter how much the guitar did cost. I learned to do a good fretjob with an old squier neck and with the right tools even refretting is not very hard. So now I will never ever fear wearing down frets.
If someone doesn't have time or fun doing such things - no problem at all!! Therfore experienced luthiers exist.
But everytime I went to the local music stores, there are people bringing their guitars in for nothing! For example tuning them (no joke!! people bring their guitar every few weeks, because the guitar went out of tune!!). Or the action is too high - holy shit, if you play guitar you should be able to adjust the action yourself, get the intonation right, change your strings, adjust the height of the pickups (and pu screws for balance when needed) ...
Maybe this is all a problem of western civilization. People no longer dare to do the simplest things themselves. People in poorer countries know what they can do or they learn to do it. They are not so helpless.Taking a piece of sandpaper and slightly rework and smoothen a nut slot (done by a plek machine, but a bit to narrow) is the easiest thing in the world. Even on a 100K+ guitar. And if you totally fail, you can refill the slot - or still go to the luthier. As said: It is just a nut. You can change it a thousand times without doing any harm to the guitar.
Of course it is possible that someone drops the sandpaper on the body and is rubbing the surface by mistake....NOT (if this someone is not drunk or something)
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Yeah, don't do it yourself ...
Why not? Read about the topic and collect some information, use the right tools and maybe try on another nut or similar material.
I never understood why guitar players don't take the time to learn some easy things to setup their guitars themselves. If you can learn to play a song with your hands, the same fingers should be able to do simple works like changing tuners, adjust trussrod or cutting a nut.
It is just a nut. If it is broken you can fix it - or change to a new one. You can do this a thousand times.
Of course you can find a luthier to do it. But the most things are not rocket science and you get a better feel for your instrument by learning about the specific funtionality.
