Posts by ThrashFlesh

    Quote

    I would love to see the new Kemper Kabinet make use of this idea.

    Implementing that idea will delay the release of Kemper Kabinet, and also will add price for the patent. But on the other hand this can slay all the other FRFRs.

    Either way, it's not prohibited to leave a feature request)

    Profiles under "My rigs" are the profiles whose "Author" field match "Owner name" in Settings. So basically you can take any profile, change it's author to "Owner name", and that profile will appear under "My rigs" section.

    There's one more option to play Kemper through a combo. You can use mp3 input, if it has one. Usually this input would go straight to a poweramp, so it's the same as an effects loop return.

    IwannaRock2, it's not about jacks, it's about type of signal that they carry.


    There's two types of signal you should know about (in current context): balanced and unbalanced.

    Cable for unbalanced signal has two wires: hot and ground. Connectors for unbalanced signal cane be 1/4" mono jack and RCA.

    Cable for balanced signal has three wires: hot, cold (basically inverted hot) and ground. Connectors for balanced signal can be XLR and 1/4" stereo jack (also called TRS – tip, ring, sleeve).

    The main difference from user perspective is that balanced signal can "travel" further distance and pickup less noice than unbalanced.


    Studio hardware usually can accept both balanced and unbalanced signals through 1/4" input – it would figure out type of signal by type of jack (mono/stereo). And there's description for your outputs (page 7):

    #2. 8 TRS jack sockets for balanced outputs 3-10. – will accept either balanced or unbalanced jacks.

    #3. TRS jack sockets for balanced outputs main monitor mix. – will accept either balanced or unbalanced jacks.


    With that said, you can use 1/4" stereo to 1/4" stereo cable or you can use XLR to 1/4" stereo jack cable. But, 1/4" mono cable should also work.

    Monitors should be connected to interface. But when you want just to play guitar through monitors (without recording), you can use direct monitoring on Saffire, this will send input signal from Kemper directly to your monitors and you don't need DAW to hear Kemper signal.

    Hey, IwannaRock2

    I'm using Komplete Audio 6. It has 4 analog and 2 digital (spdif) inputs and outputs, phantom power and direct monitoring. Also it doesn't need drivers for MAC, but you need to use standard mac os app (Audio MIDI Setup) to switch spdif on/off and other stuff. I tried it with GarageBand, Logic X, Studio One and Reaper – works great. It looks like a good starter interface, with some future proof functionality. Also you may look at Scarlet 6i6, it has same capabilities as Komplete. The only thing is that they are both USB interfaces (not Thunderbolt, as you want) but I it still should be enough for your needs.

    Hey, everyone!


    I'm looking for a small reliable mixer, with up to 8 channels, maybe with effects, maybe with interface. My searches lead me to these options:

    Mackie 802vlz4 series / Mackie Mix8 / Mackie ProFX8v2

    Yamaha MG10XU / Yamaha MG6X / Yamaha MG6

    Presonus StudioLive AR8

    Alto Professional Live 802

    ART Tubemix


    They all have enough of good and bad reviews to judge about their quality, and they all have some complains about scratchy pots, channels going out or bleeding into each other, power supply overheating, poor built quality or some general unit failure. Exception is ART Tubemix, which has only six 5-star reviews across all the Internet, which is really strange (but I can't stop drooling at it, because it looks so cool, which, of course, is all that matters in audio hardware :) ).

    Do you guys have any long-lasting experience with any of these? Or may be you can recommend me something else?


    Thank you

    Increasing the electrical resistance of the original Ethernet cable by adding other components is not supported. This can only be achieved, if Power over Ethernet (PoE) technology is used. Details can be found in the Main Manual chapter Profiler Remote paragraph Cabling.

    But if I'm using shorter (for example twice as short as a standard one) cable from Kemper to Neutrik NE8FDP, do I still add enough resistance with Neutrik, that I need PoE?

    Boss have the WL-50...

    I'm using it, and I'll just copy paste everything I've wrote about it from another thread with some additions)

    • Could not detect any noticeable latency
    • It's multichannel (scans for free frequencies automatically, when you plug in transmitter into the receiver)
    • Transmitter holds it's charge close to declared in specs 12 hours
    • Receiver has 1/4" input, so you can play guitar through cable, while charging the transmitter
    • Has stable signal when used with power supply
    • If using receiver with batteries that start dying, you may have some minor dropouts if radio signal is obstructed. But I've didn't have any dropouts when using it with power supply.
    • Comes with no power supply in the the box. But if you buy it to fit it on your pedal board, you don't really need it, because WL-50 has standard 9V power input
    • Fits nice with pedalboards: again, has 9V power input and also has clean profile, when transmitter is plugged into the receiver, so nothing sticks out, if you want to put your pedalboard in a case or a bag. It also it detects that it is plugged into receiver and uses almost no power

    And also I've just looked at G10s, and it's a direct competitor to WL-50. Both are pedalboard oriented. Both are multichannel: G10s – 11 channels; WL-50 – 14 channels. G10s has twice as much range as WL-50, but WL-50 can hold up for 4 hours longer (according to specs, at least :) ). Both have cable length simulation. G10s has additional output, WL-50 has additional input.


    So if anyone looking for a wireless unit for pedalboard, consider these first)

    Hi everyone,


    I have a problem and I don't know if this is intentional behavior or a bug. I'm using current public beta, which is 5.7.0.14092.

    I want to lock two stomps and assign both of them to the same switch on the remote. I do it the following way:

    1. holding the remote button

    2. pressing B stomp – the B stomp appears assigned and locked



    3. pressing C stomp – both B and C stomp appear assigned, but not locked in the assignment menu, though still locked in the rig itself




    Also, when assigning locked stomp, remote button has one white light on, which, I guess, means, that that stomp is locked


    So may be I can't assign several locked stomps because that white light might be misinterpreted as stomp is on.


    Can someone help me with this? Is this intentional behavior?

    Thank you in advance