Make sure in the Output section the main volume knob is linked to Monitor Out. I believe it's on the page for Output Volumes.
Posts by Ruefus
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I kind of get what you're saying, but don't see how it would work well at all.
Is the EQ a studio, graphic or just BMTP? The cabinet associated with the profile has a huge impact on what you hear as well. I feel you're better off finding a type of amp sound you want (Fender, Vox, Marshall, Orange, Mesa, etc) and finding something you like.
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For frets: I won't use or recomment steel wool because is a mess and a magnetic issue as Michael_dk mentioned. I use 2000 and 4000 grit sandpaper. It works nicely and much cleaner.
Horses for courses. Been using it for at least a decade. Never an issue.
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Might be a good idea to put painters tape (masking tape) on top of the pickups, wipe it after it's done, and then place masking tape on top of the first layer before removing, sealing in any loose fragments of steel wool (to prevent it getting into the pickups due to the magnets). But I have no idea if that is at all relevant when just sanding the neck (much more relevant when polishing frets, surely)
Yeah....I've used it on my frets for years now. I use a stainless fret guard to keep the fingerboard covered. A towel draped over the pickups works well, too.
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I have a Italia Maranello Speedster with a wonderful Blue Sparkle finish - also on the back of the neck.
Since it is part of the overall color scheme, removal of that finish wasn't an option, but I didn't really care about how it felt.
I used on it what I use on all my guitar's necks from time to time: 0000 (4!) steel wool.
It is so fine that it doesn't really remove any material it is really just a surface conditioner, all that comes off is very fine dust (wear a mask),
and it makes necks feel like super clean, polished glass. Very smooth without any stickyness.I use quad ought (#0000) steel wool for all sorts of stuff, but never on a neck.
I'll have to give that a shot.
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Sorry you're having issues. That's unusual behavior, to say the least.
If it's a brand-new unit, can you take it back to where you got it?
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Stand farther back from your Stage. Limits how far you can reach with your leg comfortably.
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No way I’m aware of.
It would also defeat the purpose. Of you lock those buttons….how would you change to the next performance?
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You suggested the Sol might work. It won’t.
If you were already aware of that fact, why ask?
You can’t have a ground loop with a battery and if the power supply is grounded you should be fine.
At the same time - you won’t know for certain until you plug it in.
If all you’re after is hum canceling, wouldn’t something as simple as a grounded spike bar work?
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The player needs 24 watts. That means 2 amps (2000ma) of current at 12v and 2.7A (2700ma) at 9v. It might work on less - but that’s a gamble.
Combining two of the 9v 660ma outs only gives you 1320. Less than half the recommended need.
You’d need a big battery to power it for any reasonable amount of time.
A 9v 2000mah battery will supply the needed current - but only for an hour. 4000 (2), 6000 (3) etc.
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Any issues on the fact that the extension port being non-isolated?
Nope. It’s no different than plugging it into the wall.
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A friend has one. Expensive, but excellent.
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500ma will not run the Player. At 9 volts, you'd need to combine all 5 of those outlets....and you'd still be below the recommended current.
DO NOT us 18volts. You'll destroy it.
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I know lots of people like the Mission pedal. I don't.
Price is a major factor here - and the EP-1KP (to me) is grossly overpriced for what amounts to repurposed Dunlop crybaby enclosure. It's nice....but not that nice.
It's better to say I despise it. I had one in my house for like...20 minutes, but knew after 10 "This is going back. Right now." The throw is like a light switch, but with less feel.
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You won't do it any favors, but you're not going to brick anything by giving it less power than it needs. It just won't work. Or it'll work poorly.
The X8 will not work. It only supplies 500ma per outlet. The power input jack on the Player says 9-12 volt DC, 24w (24 watts) - meaning it wants 2 amps of current available at 12 volts, and 2.7 at 9. The X8 provides 9 volts, so you'd need 5 outlets combined to get there.
It will likely function with less available current (it probably draws far less than 24 watts under normal operation), but swings in current draw may cause it to misbehave if the available current headroom is limited.
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I have some experience with guitar to MIDI (Axon AX-100 mkII and Graphtech saddles with the MIDI board to 13-pin) and with Jam Origin.
I'm not using it since it doesn't work reliably for me.
What does work, is a monphonic solution. I use the Sonuus G2M together with a monophonic synth - DSI Mopho for example.
guitar -> PROFILER -> Direct Output (DI Signal) to Sonuus G2M -> MIDI to DSI Mopho -> Effect loop return post STACK which let's me blend the distorted guitar signal with the synth signal and put both through up to three effects. Sounds massive. -
Well, the Bassman is already in there - although it's mostly used for guitar nowadays. Ampeg, Markbass, Aguilar and the Fender Rumble would be some models I'd love to see.
I guess my point is - the Fender tone stack is used extensively. Not just on Fender-branded amps. Marshalls are obvious choices, as is the Vox AC30.
Do bass players have iconic amps like the Deluxe Reverb, JCM800, Plexi, AC30, etc, etc. to pull from?
Also - has anyone contacted support directly and asked about this?
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What bass amp tone stacks would people want?
Is there a list of iconic models?
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If it’s a class D amp (which I believe it is), it should work fine into the effects return. Class D is the same type of amp the powered versions of everything Kemper use.
I’d also bet that the return goes straight to the power amp. Most likely no eq or tone shaping.
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IMO - this issue has been solved.
I'd rather get something like a Fishman Triple Play Connect, use pretty much any virtual instrument available and never be tied to any single device or brand for sounds.
