New strings = truss rod adjustment???

  • Just to add another variable to the discussion, consider that the temperature have influence on string tension and truss rod adjustment!


    So, for example, in Italy where between summer and winter the medium temperature varies more than 20 degree, I found that 1/8-1/6 of truss rod adjustment is needed for my typical setup between different period of the year, at parity of string/guitar ...


    -> during summer I tighten the truss rod, while in winter I relax it of the same amount :)

  • With my Music Man EVH the dirfference between a really cold day and an average warm day is 1/2 a semi tone...
    The neck is not finished (varnish)... this must be the reason... ;(

  • I was working on my Music Man one day, neck off wrapped in a t-shirt and it began to rain. Threw it all in a bag and came back to the project a week later. apparentliy the bag I threw it in took on rain (duh) and the shirt held that water to the neck and it split, warped, frets popped, etc.


    I put it in a kiln for 2 years and hammered it on but it was only good for slide. Finally sent it off to Musicman to replace. The old neck was a 10.0, the new one a 9.5, so I was disappointed but that said it IS a Music Man Axis Sport neck which are amazing regardless.


    The guitar was a righty but I got them to agree to put a lefty neck on for me with the compensated nut. What PO'd me was they said it would cost $300 but in the end they billed me for $500 without telling me it would be different. Almost what I paid for the guitar (got it used for $600 back when these guitars cost about $1000)


    So they recommend putting some OIL on those necks, and for good reason. I recommend you do that! They'll absorb hand sweat even.

  • There's a lot of ways to measure your preferred neck-relief. Common recommendations are to tune to your desired pitch before any measuring or testing, adjust in small increments with plenty of time for the neck to settle, and that all testing and measuring should be done with the guitar in the playing position. The truss-rod doesn't affect the curvature of the neck above the 17th fret much. Thus, most guides to guitar setup recommend that you hold the 3rd string on the first fret with your left index-finger and the same on the 17th fret with your right thumb. You can then reach with your right index-finger and press down to check the relief (height) above the 8th fret. You can get away with nearly no visible relief if the frets are perfectly level and the saddles are the correct height. I've got the relief on my guitars set between 0.1mm and 0.25mm depending on the type of guitar. Older guitars with a smaller radius and/or very worn frets may require a lot more relief to avoid buzz.


    Temperature affects the metal and thus the tuning of the strings, but as soon as you tune back to pitch the pull on the neck is back to normal regardless of the string temperature. Humidity affects a guitars neck more than temperature. Humidity is measured relative (%) to the airs ability to hold water-vapour. Warm air holds more water than cold. In the winter you get air with a certain humidity from the outside in, then heat it, and the result is that the inside humidity drops considerably. Air that measure 50% humidity at 10C is only 25% relative humidity at 20C unless you add water in the heating process. Dry air can ruin wooden instruments. Acoustic guitars may crack if they are stored in a dry environment for too long. It is recommended to store guitars in a humidified case, or in a room where the relative humidity is kept between 45% and 65%. If the humidity is kept constant there is rarely any need to adjust the truss-rod other than if you change the string gauge.

    Edited 5 times, last by heldal ().