Kemper player pedalboard ideas

    Quote from bca_100

    Allow me a stupid question:
    How do you guys attach the Player to your boards? A little velcro tape on the corners?

    I used the velcro that came with the Metro16 and taped it in the corners and on some other parts while trying to avoid covering the middle vent and the qr code.


    But by doing that it’s not really fixed very tight and a bit wobbly. It won’t fall off unless you hold the board upside down and shake it 😅


    That said 3M dual lock is the better choice as tsachou already said

    Edited once, last by Trigun ().

    Quote from Trigun

    The vent at the bottom of the player is pretty much obstructed by the metro16’s middle beam.

    Hope that won’t cause issues.

    Take drill with metal bit and drill some holes through the middle beam for ventilation?
    I'm also thinking going the Metro16 route and this is what I'd do.

    If you use duallock, take 2 additional pieces and stick them together back to back, then insert that in between the dual lock on the player and the board. That will give you enough lift for the ventilation without drilling and still be rock solid secure. No drilling required.

    The thing is I want it to be easy to put on/off, so the Dual Lock seems to be too permanent.
    The Player rubber feet are very small to put velcro on them, so I got new bigger rubber feet so I can stick the velcro better (around 3,5 x 2,5cm each).

    Edited once, last by bca_100 ().

    Quote from Trigun

    Tadaaaaa! The KH-95 will be replaced with a Dunlop mini dvp4 as the KH is a bit too big for the Metro16.


    The vent at the bottom of the player is pretty much obstructed by the metro16’s middle beam.

    Hope that won’t cause issues.

    Stupid question, but isn't the vent obstructed just as much as it would be if the player stood on the floor? If so, is it really an issue? That'd imply that the player shouldn't even stand on the floor.

    Quote from luizfrma

    Np! Now I'm struggling to find a power supply for the board.

    Depending on your needs a Cioks Sol (5 outputs, 4 needed for player) or Cioks DC7 (7 outputs, optional add on, Crux, that can power the player on its own, or 4 for the player again)


    Not the cheapest options but rock solid and buy once and stop thinking about it territory

    Quote from TobiasBales

    Depending on your needs a Cioks Sol (5 outputs, 4 needed for player) or Cioks DC7 (7 outputs, optional add on, Crux, that can power the player on its own, or 4 for the player again)


    Not the cheapest options but rock solid and buy once and stop thinking about it territory

    Do you know if this one would work? The Fender Engine Room LVL8 power supply.


    luizfrma the specs of the Engine Room LVL8 seem good, but I don’t see parallel cables to gang up 4 outputs to support the 2000mA requirement of the KPP. Do you know where to acquire (or can you make) this parallel cable? Also, the outlets are rated 500mA. At 9v, the Player may actually draw more than 4 x 500mA. It could be borderline.


    Seconding the point about the CIOKS DC7. It’s a bit more expensive, especially if you add the CRUX, but it’s rock solid. With the CRUX, after plugging in the Player, you’ve still got 7 outlets, all of which support 9-18v. The CRUX supports 12v at 2000mA, which will drive the Player without problems (mine has run many hours in the 6 days since my Player arrived). CIOKS makes a boatload of adapter cables, a bunch of which are included with the device. I’ve used them to power all kinds of kit. It’s an excellent product line.

    Quote from bca_100

    The thing is I want it to be easy to put on/off, so the Dual Lock seems to be too permanent.
    The Player rubber feet are very small to put velcro on them, so I got new bigger rubber feet so I can stick the velcro better (around 3,5 x 2,5cm each).

    Totally understandable. I would recommend trying dual lock though. Its actually quite easy to remove pedals if you use it sparingly. For instance, I lay down a full strip on the board but cut squares of only about 1/4" for each corner of the pedal. It is strong enough that you can lift the entire board solidly by the pedal in a straight-up fashion but still easy to pry off by just lifting one side - kind of like peeling the pedal off the board. It may not be the best option for you but is cheap enough to give it a whirl. You might never go back to velcro. For me its a Godsend.

    if i have another delay pedal,how do i set it after the player? My setup would be Guitar in > tuner > player > tc delay > FOH/guitar cab. Do i use XLR out on the player or monitor L & R to the delay?

    Quote from TobiasBales

    I think it's 4 at 660 each at 9v so 2640ma so ~23.75w

    And Cioks also sells parallel cables (you can use 3 to get 4 outputs into one)

    Or, get the CRUX adapter. That’s working for me perfectly.


    I still have 7 outputs available on my DC7 (all but 1 are in use).


    CIOKS makes an amazing product line.

    Quote from Trigun

    Tadaaaaa! The KH-95 will be replaced with a Dunlop mini dvp4 as the KH is a bit too big for the Metro16.


    The vent at the bottom of the player is pretty much obstructed by the metro16’s middle beam.

    Hope that won’t cause issues.

    I will be trying the Metro16 or the Voodoo Lab Dingbat Tiny.

    On the other hand I am entertaining the idea to keep super simple and lightweight and do band practice and perhaps small gigs with only the Player. Fits good in the Mono Tick. The Profiler rack and pedal can then be used for the larger gigs.

    Quote from Trigun

    Tadaaaaa! The KH-95 will be replaced with a Dunlop mini dvp4 as the KH is a bit too big for the Metro16.


    The vent at the bottom of the player is pretty much obstructed by the metro16’s middle beam.

    Hope that won’t cause issues.

    Hey! could you add a couple more pictures of your board by any chance? I thought the metro 16 was bigger..but it looks good. Initally I was planning on getting the voodoo labs dingbat tiny.