Does GUITAR matter? 1 pickup in 2 different guitars COMPARISON video!

  • There are a few difficulties which make this, frankly, a terrible test.


    1) you are playing punk. Short chopping chords don't decay, don't ring, don't display single notes or double stops. It's why punk rockers can use cheap guitars without care.
    2) you are playing only 3 chords in a small pitch range. Therefore one can't hear the range of tones on the guitar.
    3) since you don't ring out notes, there is no way to hear the sustain necessary to compare a floyd rose to a hardtail.
    4) Alder and Basswood are pretty close woods, which is why they are used rather interchangeably in strats. So it would be hard to hear the body differences unless all else were the same and the playing used more of the fretboard.
    5) your attack is not consistent and interferes with trying to hear the snappiness of the neck wood (maple vs rosewood)
    6) on the distortion recordings you have variable settings. They are not all the same recording, so there is a total lack of consistency that gets in the way.


    When you have so many variables, (varied playing, altered settings, different woods, different necks, different bridges) it's very difficult to distinguish what is causing hearing differences, and impossible to ascribe which difference is causing it.


    That said, I'm assuming Maple, even roasted, will have a harder or snappier attack than Rosewood.
    So Guitar A is the Maple and B is the Rosewood.


    Two asides, you have 8 distortion clips, not 7, and the snappier distortions are so varied in their recording environment that Number 2 almost sounds like a third guitar in its tone.
    None of the A's truly match up well in the distortion set. What did you do to alter the recording so much?


    Here's my analysis:


    Distortion:
    1 B
    2 A similar but not like other A's entirely. Not B.
    3 A
    4 A
    5 B
    6 A
    7 B
    8 A



    This was recorded much more consistently, except for pick attack:


    DI:
    1 B
    2 A
    3 B
    4 A
    5 B
    6 B
    7 A
    8 A

  • 1. Genre doesn't matter AT ALL. Also, it's better to try to have similar playing throughout so there's no variations. I shouldn't have to explain why.


    2.It's FOUR chords :P still doesn't matter.


    3. This test is not about sustain.


    4. In other places people say that alder and basswood are HUGE DIFFERENCE. So why would I trust you over them? 8)


    5. Can't deny this. But then again; why would playing a lot of dynamic tones be prefered as you said Before? I do my best to play consistent, and therefor I dont play a lot of solos and shit that could easily be played differently. I just played the riff as similas as I could at the moment. '


    6. Are youseriously accusing me of changing settings between takes to fool the listener??? :|


    It may be very hard to distinguish between the takes because the whole wood thing is overblown to pointless proportions :D


    As I've said earlier the AMP and CAB and MIC PLACEMENT is what makes the majority of tone.
    Wood and stuff might make a difference but it will never be so much it overshadows the amp, cab and mic placement.

  • Answer ONLY in A or B please


    Descriptive answers are pointless.

    A is dark and B is bright. Or alternatively, A is bright and B is dark. I would have to hear the guitar with you showing me what it sounds like before I can blindly say that this one is darker or this one is bright.


    Kind of crazy to guess what guitar is being played without having ever heard it, right?

  • Why not just say that the strings should also vibrate in the same wave pattern if you want to get even more scientific? I'm not sure despite any of the non-standardised parts of the test, it is not valid. The difference in the tone is staggering, and I doubt the differences in the pickup winding and playing would result in such a large difference in sound.


    Like I said, it's a real world test, if there was one thing I would change in it, I'd have one guitarist play both guitars. But if you listen to that video with a good pair of headphones or monitors, the difference is stark when all else is relatively even.

    Are you suggesting the velocity one picks with and their position in relation to the bridge has no effect on tone? I certainly hope not. I think it's obvious why I think this is important: where and how you pick (including the angle of the pick) affect tone. To have a truly objective test, the picking must be consistent and no matter how much you try and reason it, a person will vary velocity, pick angle, and position being picked.


    I'm simply not content with proving a theory based on subjective parameters as used in the Chapman video. If you want to make a concrete case with concrete proof, the method I outlined is how you do it.

  • A is dark and B is bright. Or alternatively, A is bright and B is dark. I would have to hear the guitar with you showing me what it sounds like before I can blindly say that this one is darker or this one is bright.
    Kind of crazy to guess what guitar is being played without having ever heard it, right?

    You have been given the significant specs of the guitars :rolleyes:

  • So this is your answer converted to A/B, right? I dont get why you pair them into "1&2", it just makes it more confusing...


    1. A
    2. B
    3. A
    4. B
    5. B
    6. A
    7. I do not accept this answer, please choose A or B!
    8. I do not accept this answer, please choose A or B! It's like going to a football game and cheering for both teams... One will win, so you will be right...


    1. B
    2. A
    3. B
    4. A
    5. ???? please specify A or B
    6. ???? please specify A or B
    7. ???? please specify A or B
    8. ???? please specify A or B


    Please, @Monkey_Man make a real A / B list, I wont try to translate your cryptic answers too :love:

  • Here is my A/B results:


    I'm absolutely convinced there is not "A" chance that one of the four of you will "B"e able to change any opinions of the other three.


    Just about every significant aspect of a guitar's construction has SOME effect on the tone, or the playability (and, that affects the tone...)


    Maybe this thread could be merged with the "Real amp vs. Kemper" - that way, there will only be one "thread that never ends". ;)

  • In other places people say that alder and basswood are HUGE DIFFERENCE. So why would I trust you over them?

    You didn't ask me of course, Ceddy, but may I suggest the answer would be, "Because you yourself think so based on your real-world test"? I agree of course, and I didn't expect anything otherwise. As I keep saying, those woods fall into the Ash / Alder / Basswood category as far as I'm concerned, and are much of a muchness tonally.


    As for your repeated calls for me to retake the test, c'mon, man - I had to practically lie on the floor to hear the clips well-enough to be able to tell that some were brighter than others (the CrapMac™ speaker is super-low in level and the computer's in the bottom of a rack), so I described them as being brighter or darker. I'm not up to going through that palaver again, so I'll translate my worthless CrapMac™ findings from that post. I'll call, for argument's sake, the brighter tones Guitar A, and the duller ones B as I'm not going to try to guess which is physically which. There can be no doubt they sound slightly-different from each other, but I'm not going to get my knickers in a knot about it. If I had to choose either for a recording, I'd pick one randomly and do a whole lot more with EQ during mixing than the tiny differences between the guitars could possibly poke through.


    Again, I'm calling the brighter one "A" and the duller one "B".


    Distorted


    1. A
    2. B
    3. A
    4. A
    5. B
    6. A
    7. B
    8. B


    Clean


    1. A
    2. A
    3. B
    4. A
    5. B
    6. A
    7. B
    8. B


    I only did it out of respect for your efforts, Ceddy. As I said, my results will likely be pathetic 'cause of the monitoring issue. I didn't want to redo it, as I said, 'cause I couldn't care less that I can barely tell any differences between two similar woods on a crappy speaker, but again, out of respect for your efforts and the time you've devoted to this, I played the roulette wheel.


    Oh, and you asked politely too - "Please guys can you try this blind comparison?" How could I refuse? LOL


    IMHO, all we're proving is that two similar-sounding woods sound... similar.


    EDIT:
    Brother, again, out of respect for you, I re-sat the test... or rather, re-laid-down the test! Please don't make me do it again, mate! :D

  • Distorted


    1. A (as thats in the video?)
    2. B
    3. A
    4. A
    5. B
    6. A
    7. A
    8. B



    Clean


    1. A
    2. A
    3. B ?
    4. A
    5. A
    6. B?
    7. B ?
    8. B


    The ? means i cannot tell... On a side note i asked my Girl friend where her tone comes from and she said my fingers :rolleyes::thumbup:


    Ash

    Have a beer and don't sneer. -CJ. Two non powered Kempers -Two mission stereo FRFR Cabs - Ditto X4 -TC electronic Mimiq.

  • A note is it's harmonics, so cutting them off too soon doesn't allow the listener all the information. It's like doing a picture ID with the face mostly covered. Different woods alter the overtones, so those need to be heard, not clipped short. I only pointed out "punk" to illustrated chopped chords being the type to cut the tone before it can flower into difference making harmonics. So the attack was what I was able to distinguish most, and that would be the neck wood, not the body.


    Also, one can hear harmonics of single or double notes easier than a mess of chords. So variety helps, but single notes are best.
    Since your guitars use different bridges, and bridges affect sustain, you made it about sustain if comparing between the 2 guitars. Otherwise, the test should guitars with the same bridge.


    If the amp wasn't in one position for A and B with zero changes, not even a chair in the room moved, that may affect the listening environment. Different placements, even slight are huge if they are near the edge of the cone. This isn't a test about Mic Placement, but if the placement is different, then it kind of kills comparisons by ADDING more information that should be there.


    I didn't mean you did this intentionally, just pointing it out. And that doesn't mean it's hard to tell A from a B, only that it makes distinguishing body woods difficult.
    Also, off-axis mic technique can take out some of the initial attack of a sound source. It's why singers sometimes use it to soften the S, T, B and P's of their vocal attacks.


    It's not that it's making things indistinguishable, it that there are so many variables, there is so much more to distinguish. That's why scientific tests offer up as few uncontrollable variables as possible, ideally crafting a test that only allows just one. There are clear differences in those takes. And clear similarities. Which of the groups is Guitar A or B is part of the guess, which is cool.
    I participated for the fun of it. But if Guitar A has several differences because of mic placement, it can fool a casual listener over compression. That is, the wildness can cause them to make poor choices, not that the choices are indistinguishable, but instead giving information that fools them. 1 and 2 are Guitar A but they sound different because they are different takes, I might think "one MUST be A and the OTHER B because they clearly are NOT the same" <--- this is the problem of your distortion test.


    If I conducted such a test, it would look very different. The only differences would be what is being tested. If the test is about neck wood, the body wood would be the same. As would all the hardware. As would the mic placement, room treatment. Also, the choice of "music" would be separates groups. Fingers vs Pick, with the runs being Single Note, Double Stop, then some maybe Chords, ringing out, not cut off, along the neck to get low /mid/high pitches.


    There are some really good bass guitar comparisons on YouTube, ones I looked at were Fender P Bass with Maple neck vs Rosewood of the same year make. Or between different bases, P Bass, Rickenbacker, G&L, etc that are well done this way. (I bought a bass recently, so was listening to a lot of comparisons to make sure of the type of bass I wanted compared to my 4003)


    One thing I noticed in neck wood comparisons. Most all showed Rosewood to be softer attack. Maple to have more treble. Slapping really brought this out. There was 1 or two that claimed and recorded them "sounding the same" without slapping. But no videos showed Maple being dark and Rosewood being a softer tone. This is a very telling thing about neck woods. There are instances where playing, environment, choice of music, ringing in the amp, can make 2 guitars sound similar. But no case where, how guitars are expected to diverge on wood type, the can sound the opposite of that. Ideally, if the wood don't matter, all three cases should be present, including them sounding the opposite of convention.


    Look forward to your pulling back the curtain! And if you say on the Distortion that 4 and 5 are the same guitar, I'll know you're lying, haha!

  • This is a Kemper forum, dude, I dont mic up a physical amp :D I had THE SAME PROFILE on both. I didn't change anything.


    Sorry for not doing a test to your specific criteria :P I did my best with what I have...

    Initially I thought that, but then you said " MIC PLACEMENT is what makes the majority of tone" in answer to my critique, so that sounded to me like you mic'd them.


    I'm curious then how you recorded such varied guitar takes on the same guitar?
    I just did EQ checks on them and they don't match evenly on one of the guitars, but on the other, they align.


    Anyway, it's not "my criteria." Its how science all over the world works: Ceteris paribus, where you allow one variable and keep all the other variables constant.

  • You can pick up a piece of high quality tone wood and tap it and hear the tone and overtones of the wood. Tap a piece of tone-dead wood and it sounds like you are tapping on a rock.

    This has been addressed several times. You're talking about acoustic tonalities, I am talking about when you run electric wires through it and use a magnetic pickup. It can't be that hard to understand the difference.

    Let a luthier who knows his craft well make a guitar for you with crap wood. You will hear the difference. Well built guitars are built with tone woods.

    Hmm… makes me think of earlier in this very thread...

    FWIW
    Ibanez Talman series (the original ones, early 90s) were made from what recall to be ground up wood and glue.
    Superb guitars. I own 3 from this series. One was my #1 for years, countless gigs and two records and I had more than one guy with a US PRS or similar guitar come over and inquire about it since it sounds sensational.


    A good guitar is a good guitar, no matter the material

  • @MementoMori Look at this :thumbup:


    ANY guitar can be good or bad. No matter how many "rights" or "wrongs" it is built with. Good parts will give a higher percentage of a good guitar tho, of course!


    I have built several partscasters with a very varying degree of "attention to detail" and one of the guitars I found to have some of the best harmonics and overtones was this. I could do super easy pinches anywhere on the guitar, and the sustain was totally ok.


    It's a plywood kramer guitar I "routed out" the old Floyd for
    Replaced it with a dustboard
    The bridge is shimmed with lots of plastic shims because I routed out the body too deep


    This is "wrong" according to what we "know" about guitar building. But it was a fun guitar... However, I couldn't stand looking at this abomination so I de-parted it and throw away the body :D


    I dont have any soundclips of it, I did have a video of me playing the guitar before I cleansed my Youtube channel from about 100 videos... :(




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